5LikesMike Swauger's article on setting up a Centax clutch
08-23-2007, 07:01 AM
#107
Oooopns! just read now that someone pointed you on what clutch had two bearings 'in'.Calipers? Yes... surely! clutch gaping tool? well, I have one and ever forget to carry it. Has much more service a set of metal gauges like the ones you use for gaping electrodes on your spark plugs. Maybe is 'less cool' but... makes their services.
08-23-2007, 07:45 AM
#108
Thats actually a good idea to use a automotive feeler gauge.
08-23-2007, 08:23 AM
#109
Tech Elite
To add to the subject i have been using this method suggested by dennis Richey for setting up the clutch on the G4S.
I would think it applies to other centax clutches as well as they are the same in principle.
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
I would think it applies to other centax clutches as well as they are the same in principle.
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
Thanks for sharing guys..
08-30-2007, 08:03 AM
#110
What Color Clutch Shoes are you guys Running???
Hey guys. First, big thanks to all the FBF guys for being so cool -- Thanks for making entry into 8th on-road alot easier and less painful...
I'm trying to figure this whole clutch thing out - I've been using a combination of yellow and or grey (black) shoes- the blacks seem to last a little longer and stay consistent longer.
1) How many tanks of fuel do you guys get before having to re-setup your clutch??
2) While this article has been great, I still am not clear on "rotating" shims around -- so let me re-state my question like this:
Q: You have your clutch setup right, and the car is running good. You drive through about 6 or 8 tanks, and now you maybe start to hear some slippage on the back straight - so it's clearly time to readjust - (Hopefully everyone is on the same page here) --> Do you back off the clutch nut? Do you TIGHTEN the clutch nut?? Do you DO NOTHING with the nut, but instead MOVE SHIMS AROUND??
This is what I'm trying to figure out.
For the record, starting with a new shoe, I usually have 4 shims UNDER the bell (Closer to engine), and then 2 shims OUTSIDE the bell (closer to side of car) With a gap somewhere in the realm of .6 or .7 or so.
I'm sorry if alot of these questions are addressed in Mike's article, but if they are, I guess I just don't "get it" good enough yet. Thanks again guys.
-scud
I'm trying to figure this whole clutch thing out - I've been using a combination of yellow and or grey (black) shoes- the blacks seem to last a little longer and stay consistent longer.
1) How many tanks of fuel do you guys get before having to re-setup your clutch??
2) While this article has been great, I still am not clear on "rotating" shims around -- so let me re-state my question like this:
Q: You have your clutch setup right, and the car is running good. You drive through about 6 or 8 tanks, and now you maybe start to hear some slippage on the back straight - so it's clearly time to readjust - (Hopefully everyone is on the same page here) --> Do you back off the clutch nut? Do you TIGHTEN the clutch nut?? Do you DO NOTHING with the nut, but instead MOVE SHIMS AROUND??
This is what I'm trying to figure out.
For the record, starting with a new shoe, I usually have 4 shims UNDER the bell (Closer to engine), and then 2 shims OUTSIDE the bell (closer to side of car) With a gap somewhere in the realm of .6 or .7 or so.
I'm sorry if alot of these questions are addressed in Mike's article, but if they are, I guess I just don't "get it" good enough yet. Thanks again guys.
-scud
08-30-2007, 12:41 PM
#111
As your clutch gap is growing from wear, from .5 to .7 for example, you would then move .2 shims from under the bell to outside the bell. This reduces your clutch gap back to .5 and retains the same end play.
05-26-2008, 11:33 PM
#112
top
05-30-2008, 07:14 AM
#113
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Is there a copy of the article out on the Internet anywhere? I tried the link from post #50 and tried finding it on the Extreme site plus did a google on "Mike Swauger extreme clutch". Figures I miss a month and there's something good in it.............
05-30-2008, 09:24 AM
#114
yeah, i too would like to see a complete build of the clutch.
05-30-2008, 11:41 AM
#116
Q: You have your clutch setup right, and the car is running good. You drive through about 6 or 8 tanks, and now you maybe start to hear some slippage on the back straight - so it's clearly time to readjust - (Hopefully everyone is on the same page here) --> Do you back off the clutch nut? Do you TIGHTEN the clutch nut?? Do you DO NOTHING with the nut, but instead MOVE SHIMS AROUND??
This is what I'm trying to figure out.
This is what I'm trying to figure out.
Assuming everything was shimmed properly at the beginning that same .2 will now need to be added in front of the clutch to maintain your thrust bearing clearance.
This is why you can simply move the correct size shim from the back to the front.
05-30-2008, 12:34 PM
#117
05-30-2008, 01:52 PM
#119
04-17-2021, 08:39 AM
#120
Anybody ever had there clutch loosen up on it self? I will set my clutch up to my preference then halfway through a tank the call will stall and the clutch bell and flywheel will move as one unit. Open it up and the preload adjustment is complete loose.