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Old 08-23-2007, 04:32 AM   #106
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Don't have a MTX-4, so you got me there. I was talking about the "real" cars
So were we!
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:01 AM   #107
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...and someone mentioned Mugen has two bearings on the inside?? wrong. I've setup Mugen, Serpent and Kyosho clutches exactly the way I described..... the method works on all of them.

Calipers don't cut it here guy's..... you need a clutch gapping tool
Pssst! the one clutch from Mugen that comes with two bearings 'in' is the MTX4... Oooopns! just read now that someone pointed you on what clutch had two bearings 'in'.

Calipers? Yes... surely! clutch gaping tool? well, I have one and ever forget to carry it. Has much more service a set of metal gauges like the ones you use for gaping electrodes on your spark plugs. Maybe is 'less cool' but... makes their services.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:45 AM   #108
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Thats actually a good idea to use a automotive feeler gauge.
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Old 08-23-2007, 09:23 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by razzor View Post
To add to the subject i have been using this method suggested by dennis Richey for setting up the clutch on the G4S.
I would think it applies to other centax clutches as well as they are the same in principle.

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
Thanks for sharing guys..
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Old 08-30-2007, 09:03 AM   #110
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Default What Color Clutch Shoes are you guys Running???

Hey guys. First, big thanks to all the FBF guys for being so cool -- Thanks for making entry into 8th on-road alot easier and less painful...

I'm trying to figure this whole clutch thing out - I've been using a combination of yellow and or grey (black) shoes- the blacks seem to last a little longer and stay consistent longer.

1) How many tanks of fuel do you guys get before having to re-setup your clutch??

2) While this article has been great, I still am not clear on "rotating" shims around -- so let me re-state my question like this:

Q: You have your clutch setup right, and the car is running good. You drive through about 6 or 8 tanks, and now you maybe start to hear some slippage on the back straight - so it's clearly time to readjust - (Hopefully everyone is on the same page here) --> Do you back off the clutch nut? Do you TIGHTEN the clutch nut?? Do you DO NOTHING with the nut, but instead MOVE SHIMS AROUND??

This is what I'm trying to figure out.

For the record, starting with a new shoe, I usually have 4 shims UNDER the bell (Closer to engine), and then 2 shims OUTSIDE the bell (closer to side of car) With a gap somewhere in the realm of .6 or .7 or so.

I'm sorry if alot of these questions are addressed in Mike's article, but if they are, I guess I just don't "get it" good enough yet. Thanks again guys.
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Old 08-30-2007, 01:41 PM   #111
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As your clutch gap is growing from wear, from .5 to .7 for example, you would then move .2 shims from under the bell to outside the bell. This reduces your clutch gap back to .5 and retains the same end play.
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:33 AM   #112
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:14 AM   #113
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Is there a copy of the article out on the Internet anywhere? I tried the link from post #50 and tried finding it on the Extreme site plus did a google on "Mike Swauger extreme clutch". Figures I miss a month and there's something good in it.............
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:24 AM   #114
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yeah, i too would like to see a complete build of the clutch.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:18 PM   #115
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Check the new Mugen only forum. Someone posted a link to it.
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:41 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScudMan View Post
Q: You have your clutch setup right, and the car is running good. You drive through about 6 or 8 tanks, and now you maybe start to hear some slippage on the back straight - so it's clearly time to readjust - (Hopefully everyone is on the same page here) --> Do you back off the clutch nut? Do you TIGHTEN the clutch nut?? Do you DO NOTHING with the nut, but instead MOVE SHIMS AROUND??

This is what I'm trying to figure out.
What you are compensating for when you make an adjustment is clutch shoe wear. If you started with a .6 clutch gap and find that you are at .8 due to wear you will need to remove .2 behind the rear bearing to get your gap back to .6.

Assuming everything was shimmed properly at the beginning that same .2 will now need to be added in front of the clutch to maintain your thrust bearing clearance.

This is why you can simply move the correct size shim from the back to the front.
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:34 PM   #117
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Check the new Mugen only forum. Someone posted a link to it.
that link bring you back here....lol
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Old 05-30-2008, 01:39 PM   #118
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try this it's pretty good

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/clutch/index.php
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Old 05-30-2008, 02:52 PM   #119
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Have been using Glenn's method for years.



http://www.serpent.com/news/10534/Bu...-Clutches.html
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