Head shimming and nitro percentage
#2
Without knowing anything about that engine, I'd safely say you should add at least a 0.1 mm shim, maybe even 0.2mm.
#4
Tech Adept
Leave the stock shims in place and try a cold plug.
#5
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
There is no direct relationship between the percentage of nitro in your fuel and the shim stack you should run. Also, the engine isn't "made" for any percentage of nitro, it's just pre-tuned at the factory for a certain percentage of nitro.
A lower shim stack increases compression, which has two effects: 1) The engine produces more torque, and 2) the carburetor will have a narrower tuning band -- it will be harder to get a tune that doesn't choke the engine and also doesn't overheat the engine. You can offset the second effect somewhat with a colder plug, but that in-turn will make the engine less likely to idle reliably, because the plug will cool-off too much at low RPM and it won't provide a reliable source of ignition heat. Conversely, a higher shim stack reduces compression, which has two effects: 1) The engine produces less torque, and 2) the carburetor will have a wider tuning band, though it might end up being so wide that you can't achieve full operating temperature without starving the engine and risking damage from lack of lubrication.
I run all my engines on 30% nitro, and for a long time I assumed that meant I needed to run an extra shim, but eventually I figured out that was an incorrect assumption. The only time you need to increase the shim-stack is if you can't get the carburetor tuned to avoid choking or overheating without using a plug that's so cold the engine won't idle properly. You could even run a lower shim stack for even higher torque than the 30% nitro fuel can provide on its own, as long as the engine has enough cooling capacity, but that's something you should only try once you're very familiar with the engine.
So, keep the shim stack and the glowplug as-is and see how it runs. If you can tune it to run fast and idle reliably without choking or overheating, then you don't need to change anything. However, since this is the on-road forum and I assume you're going to be pulling high RPMs pretty much constantly, you may need a medium-cold or cold glowplug to keep the engine from overheating. If the colder plug doesn't help either, then you'll have to try a taller shim stack.
A lower shim stack increases compression, which has two effects: 1) The engine produces more torque, and 2) the carburetor will have a narrower tuning band -- it will be harder to get a tune that doesn't choke the engine and also doesn't overheat the engine. You can offset the second effect somewhat with a colder plug, but that in-turn will make the engine less likely to idle reliably, because the plug will cool-off too much at low RPM and it won't provide a reliable source of ignition heat. Conversely, a higher shim stack reduces compression, which has two effects: 1) The engine produces less torque, and 2) the carburetor will have a wider tuning band, though it might end up being so wide that you can't achieve full operating temperature without starving the engine and risking damage from lack of lubrication.
I run all my engines on 30% nitro, and for a long time I assumed that meant I needed to run an extra shim, but eventually I figured out that was an incorrect assumption. The only time you need to increase the shim-stack is if you can't get the carburetor tuned to avoid choking or overheating without using a plug that's so cold the engine won't idle properly. You could even run a lower shim stack for even higher torque than the 30% nitro fuel can provide on its own, as long as the engine has enough cooling capacity, but that's something you should only try once you're very familiar with the engine.
So, keep the shim stack and the glowplug as-is and see how it runs. If you can tune it to run fast and idle reliably without choking or overheating, then you don't need to change anything. However, since this is the on-road forum and I assume you're going to be pulling high RPMs pretty much constantly, you may need a medium-cold or cold glowplug to keep the engine from overheating. If the colder plug doesn't help either, then you'll have to try a taller shim stack.
#6
It is all about ignition timing, more nitro will shift the ignition to a sooner moment you can correct with adding a shim or use colder plugs.
That most RTR engines are made for a wide range of Nitro has to do with a lower compression and hotter plugs. The 18TZ is a competition engine running on a higer compression and colder plugs giving a much smaller window of the Nitro percentage.
#7
I set all of my truck engines to .4mm head spacing checked with the head installed with a dial indicator. I use 10-30% Nitro and adjust the heat range of the glow plug to suit the fuel used. Too high of a compression ratio and too hot of a glow plug will cause ignition to be too soon. Colder plugs will adjust the ignition timing later.
Higher compression advances ignition as does hotter glow plugs. Leaner fuel mixtures will advance the ignition as well. So, the big picture is you have to balance compression, glow plug heat range, and fuel mixture. Even the actual fuel composition will affect ignition timing to a point.
Higher compression advances ignition as does hotter glow plugs. Leaner fuel mixtures will advance the ignition as well. So, the big picture is you have to balance compression, glow plug heat range, and fuel mixture. Even the actual fuel composition will affect ignition timing to a point.
Last edited by RCTecher12; 03-29-2018 at 06:01 AM. Reason: Fixed typo. .8mm should have been .4mm (.015”)
#8
On a fresh engine a clearance of 0.3mm is possible, at high revs due the low play and flex the 0.3 will almost become zero giving a higher compression. Most brands handle about 0.5mm~0.6mm clearance for an .21 so there is room for some tolerances and play before the piston will smash the head.
The low clearance will create power and the flex does advance the ignition so in every rpm range the ignition is on the right time. Messing up the head clearance far from standard so yo can run every fuel is just loosing performance.
#9
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
As for the part about using colder plugs...yes, I said that. Go back and read my post thoroughly instead of looking for an opportunity to argue.
#10
Again, on low compression engines you can almost run any fuel,
On competition engines you barely can not go higher with the nitro content. I have seen many Novarossi engines shimmed that tight for the use of 25% fuel and an 8 plug that even a 7 plug or 28% nitro (mixed on the limit with a nitro max) gave detonation and a damaged plug.
The 18TZ is a competition engine so a 10% higher nitro does directly relate to adding a shim. If not, you overheat the engine and blow plugs.
On competition engines you barely can not go higher with the nitro content. I have seen many Novarossi engines shimmed that tight for the use of 25% fuel and an 8 plug that even a 7 plug or 28% nitro (mixed on the limit with a nitro max) gave detonation and a damaged plug.
The 18TZ is a competition engine so a 10% higher nitro does directly relate to adding a shim. If not, you overheat the engine and blow plugs.
#11
Most of the engines I’ve had in my hands were generously shimmed from the factory. Some competition, some basic ones. Doing it “right” involves determining the actual bonafide compression ratio. Is there any factual correlations between a given specific CR and a specific Nitro percentage?
#12
From my experience, running w/o enough shim does lead to premature detonation almost always in Novarossi. And the tuning window does decrease with higher %fuel. And temp goes crazy high. When taken apart, it is very obvious about detonation as the top of piston becomes glazed dark. And the plug goes out like no other.
#13
I’ve used Neal’s advice to shim the head for .4mm post break-in. I have been taught over the years to not run tighter than .2mm/.008” to prevent the piston from hitting the head, but I may experiment with tighter head spacing with a couple engines. I do agree that the head volume and shape must be taken into account when setting the head spacing and choosing a fuel mix.
#14
I’ve used Neal’s advice to shim the head for .4mm post break-in. I have been taught over the years to not run tighter than .2mm/.008” to prevent the piston from hitting the head, but I may experiment with tighter head spacing with a couple engines. I do agree that the head volume and shape must be taken into account when setting the head spacing and choosing a fuel mix.
#15
From my experience, running w/o enough shim does lead to premature detonation almost always in Novarossi. And the tuning window does decrease with higher %fuel. And temp goes crazy high. When taken apart, it is very obvious about detonation as the top of piston becomes glazed dark. And the plug goes out like no other.