Jeel

iTrader: (16)

Anyone else notice how close the engine sits to the chassis?

I am running an RB S7 and there is barely a millimeter or so between the block and the chassis.

FrankBlack

Yes i have noticed the same, and was quite worried about it after i cracked a crank case, but its normal and wont cause any problems.

793bob

just wondering what you guys use to warm up your engine before starting it in the field where electricity is not available.on another site some guys said they used butane torches ,others wrapped a spring around the engine and hooked it up to a battery.any other ideas.

FrankBlack

I only do it when im breaking in a engine, i just do 1 or 2 laps a bit slower than normal to warm up the engine.

Bulldawg RC

iTrader: (65)

hey guys my hyper 8 is awesome but i am having problems getting enough steering. i don't know if i increase the toe out if it will help? also should i about using a longer servo horn? please help guys because guys are getting me everytime around the tight turns at my track. thanks

FrankBlack

I had to use a longer servo horn to get the full steering throw. What radio gear are you using? Can you set the servo end points further than what they are at? Or try using the rear ackerman hole.

Bulldawg RC

iTrader: (65)

i did set the servo endpoints as far as possible. i will try adjusting ackerman and maybe getting a longer servo horn. thanks for the input....appreciate it

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

Bulldawg,
There are many reasons why a car can push (not enough steering). It can be radio adjustments, linkage adjustments and then set up. This does not een consider driving style.

That being said, I just got y new FR2 chassis and Jammin Big Bore shocks. I will be runnning them with Kortz's set up this weekend. I will probably be able to get a gallon to gallon and a half through the car in the next 2 weeks. Going down to Missouri for the first round of RC Pro Series in a couple of weekends and I need time on the car before then .

I will let everyone know how I like the chassis and shocks after this weekend.

Thanks,
Casey

FrankBlack

Awesome man, ill be gettin my jammin BB's today, i ordered the fr2 chassis from nitrohouse but they ahve been out of stock for 2 weeks now, hopefully they will get them in soon.

BTW How have you setup your BB's? oil weights springs etc

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

Talked to Rob at Nitrohouse and he said Fronts 65wt oil (Losi) and Mugen White springs (short ones off of older MBX5). Rear is 45 wt (Losi) with long blue Mugen rears (from older MBX5). Stock pistons. Then get the shock boots instead of using the red seals.

Thanks,
Casey

wrightcs77

iTrader: (551)

Well, I got some good time on the FR2 chassis and big bores yesterday. The FR2 chassis definately adds some stability and consistency to the car. I thought it was a noticable difference. One thing is the chassis is very stiff and has very little front to rear flex. It probably has the least flex of any car I have seen, minus the tunnel chassis TTR S3.

Initially I wasn't real pleased with the big bore shocks. I liked the feel of the stock shocks better. After some time on them they seemed to "break in" and felt much better.

Now, for set up. I am now running the full Kortz set up with a couple of small changes.

Front
His mod on the front upper arm, drill a new hole on the inside of the front arms for shock mounting, rear ackerman hole, lower hole on upper arm on shock tower, BB shocks with 60 wt losi oil, white mugen springs, upper shock location 2nd from inside on top row (more on this in a second), 1* toe out, -2* camber, maximum kick up (8* I think) and 7K diff fluid. On the uppper shock position, I was running the "standard" 3rd hold from inside and switched to 2nd hole from inside and noticed a HUGE improvement. I will be trying laying all the way down in the next day or two. Bones just below level in front. Full droop.

Center
5K diff fluid with stock gearing, S7II motor and Fiorini Turbo Slider clutch.

Rear
Middle upper shock location (old short tower) and outside on arms, 30 wt losi oil, Mugen blue springs, stock pistons, re-drilled new inside camber link location, inside lower camber on outer hubs, new style hubs, lower hinge pin hole, middle wheelbase, 2K diff oil, -2* camber, 2* rear toe in and 1* anti squat. Bones level in rear. Full droop.

With this set up I learned to set the car up before the corner, get a little turn in and then use the throttle to power out of the corner. The car was dialed. I am very happy with this set up.

I tried limiting my droop per one of the team drivers posting on another forum. The track I was running on was very technical and somewhat rough. The car just seemed to bounce around too much. This is why I went back to full droop. To get the car to react a little quicker I went to the 2* rear toe from the 3* rear toe that Kortz normally runs. I plan to try playing with the front kick up, rear anti squat and upper shock locations to fine tune my set up. But the car is very close to perfect, at least at the last track I was on. I will hit a 4 different tracks in the next month to see what works where.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to share my findings.

Thanks,
Casey

WHOBEE

iTrader: (58)

Good stuff Casey. Thanks for the updates.

FrankBlack

What measurments did you use for where you drilled the holes?

BTW Im GuNNeR from the ofna forums, ive been trying to find that manual for you but i cant find one either.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

FrankBlack

I know where the holes go, i just wanna know exact measurements.