THE JQ Products VideoSetUp Thread
03-23-2012, 03:14 PM
#46
I'll post a vid of the race as son as I can so you can see the difference before/after. I love this car, it's so smooth and nimble!
04-04-2012, 04:45 AM
#47
Here is the vid, sorry for the wait:
The setup is the one from Chris Marrale for loose tracks.
The only difference is for shocks, I used everything standard (pistons and springs) with Losi 35wt.
I used Jconcepts double cross tires in soft.
I was very happy with the car, finished 3rd in my category (brushless). The car was just a little nervous on the straight entry when giving it full throttle but that's about it. But I'm no pro driver so if you have some suggestions regarding the vid...
If you can help me to fine tune it further, my next race is this week-end on the same track
. I just have to find a front gearbox before the race as I broke mine (massive front crash in a metal podium, I was happy nothing else broke actually) 
. I looked everywhere in Belgium and couldn't find parts for The car
| + YouTube Video | |
The setup is the one from Chris Marrale for loose tracks.
The only difference is for shocks, I used everything standard (pistons and springs) with Losi 35wt.
I used Jconcepts double cross tires in soft.
I was very happy with the car, finished 3rd in my category (brushless). The car was just a little nervous on the straight entry when giving it full throttle but that's about it. But I'm no pro driver so if you have some suggestions regarding the vid...
If you can help me to fine tune it further, my next race is this week-end on the same track
. I just have to find a front gearbox before the race as I broke mine (massive front crash in a metal podium, I was happy nothing else broke actually) . I looked everywhere in Belgium and couldn't find parts for The car
04-04-2012, 10:46 AM
#48
Here is the vid, sorry for the wait:
The setup is the one from Chris Marrale for loose tracks.
The only difference is for shocks, I used everything standard (pistons and springs) with Losi 35wt.
I used Jconcepts double cross tires in soft.
I was very happy with the car, finished 3rd in my category (brushless). The car was just a little nervous on the straight entry when giving it full throttle but that's about it. But I'm no pro driver so if you have some suggestions regarding the vid...
If you can help me to fine tune it further, my next race is this week-end on the same track. I just have to find a front gearbox before the race as I broke mine (massive front crash in a metal podium, I was happy nothing else broke actually) . I looked everywhere in Belgium and couldn't find parts for The car
The setup is the one from Chris Marrale for loose tracks.
The only difference is for shocks, I used everything standard (pistons and springs) with Losi 35wt.
I used Jconcepts double cross tires in soft.
I was very happy with the car, finished 3rd in my category (brushless). The car was just a little nervous on the straight entry when giving it full throttle but that's about it. But I'm no pro driver so if you have some suggestions regarding the vid...
If you can help me to fine tune it further, my next race is this week-end on the same track
. I just have to find a front gearbox before the race as I broke mine (massive front crash in a metal podium, I was happy nothing else broke actually) . I looked everywhere in Belgium and couldn't find parts for The carI tried that shock setup when I first built my car and it wasn't very good. For stock pistons, the base setup is Losi 35f 40r. I ended up with 32.5f, 35r with 5x1.4 pistons in the winter, then I went to CSI Blue and they had a lot more traction. In the video it looked like it bounced too much. Since your car is electric, try heavier oils...35-37.5f, 37.5-42.5r.
Also try some other shock springs. Kyosho Orange/Blue are best, or Losi Silver/Green and the car will feel much better. Not a fan of the stock springs...
You will be fine without the front gearbox for a race, just don't nosedive too hard.
04-04-2012, 11:04 AM
#49
The car looked really good on every part of the track except entering the straightaway like you mentioned. Also you were driving smooth with no excess wheel spin.
Thanks, I try to drive clean. The car looks slow but laptimes are good so I stay progressive. I push it harder during the trainings to understand how the car handles at the limit but in races I focus on staying on my wheels and have clean lines. I use a micro lap timer and everytine I push to much my laptimes are worse. I choosed a smooth motor too so it helps a lot, it only reaches about 25000rpm but has plenty of torque so it's very efficient.
I tried that shock setup when I first built my car and it wasn't very good. For stock pistons, the base setup is Losi 35f 40r. I ended up with 32.5f, 35r with 5x1.4 pistons in the winter, then I went to CSI Blue and they had a lot more traction. In the video it looked like it bounced too much. Since your car is electric, try heavier oils...35-37.5f, 37.5-42.5r.
Also try some other shock springs. Kyosho Orange/Blue are best, or Losi Silver/Green and the car will feel much better. Not a fan of the stock springs...
Good to hear, I was thinking about CSI pistons too reading at the JQ thread. I heard about Losi red and Kyosho orange springs also but don't know when to use what. I agree about the rear bouncing, I had the same trouble in my very first race with the car. The problem is that under harder acceleration it tends to go from side to side. I'm a smooth driver so I don't think it's about my driving here. I would like the car to be a little more stable under hard acceleration so I'll try your suggestions
Concerning going higher in weight in the shocks because it's an electric car, do you suggest this because the car is heavier? My car weights about 3kg300 which is almost the same weight as the nitro version. I manage to be so light because my driving is so progressive that I don't use much energy. My battery is very small. This said I had to use a bigger lipo for the 15min A final (on the vid) so I'll have to be careful not to change the weight too much between the 5min quals and the 15min finals
You will be fine without the front gearbox for a race, just don't nosedive too hard.
I broke the rear part of the front gearbox where the shock towers are fixed so I won't be able to drive without it
. I ordered the part at jespares in UK but I already know it won't be here for sunday 
Thanks, I try to drive clean. The car looks slow but laptimes are good so I stay progressive. I push it harder during the trainings to understand how the car handles at the limit but in races I focus on staying on my wheels and have clean lines. I use a micro lap timer and everytine I push to much my laptimes are worse. I choosed a smooth motor too so it helps a lot, it only reaches about 25000rpm but has plenty of torque so it's very efficient.
I tried that shock setup when I first built my car and it wasn't very good. For stock pistons, the base setup is Losi 35f 40r. I ended up with 32.5f, 35r with 5x1.4 pistons in the winter, then I went to CSI Blue and they had a lot more traction. In the video it looked like it bounced too much. Since your car is electric, try heavier oils...35-37.5f, 37.5-42.5r.
Also try some other shock springs. Kyosho Orange/Blue are best, or Losi Silver/Green and the car will feel much better. Not a fan of the stock springs...
Good to hear, I was thinking about CSI pistons too reading at the JQ thread. I heard about Losi red and Kyosho orange springs also but don't know when to use what. I agree about the rear bouncing, I had the same trouble in my very first race with the car. The problem is that under harder acceleration it tends to go from side to side. I'm a smooth driver so I don't think it's about my driving here. I would like the car to be a little more stable under hard acceleration so I'll try your suggestions
Concerning going higher in weight in the shocks because it's an electric car, do you suggest this because the car is heavier? My car weights about 3kg300 which is almost the same weight as the nitro version. I manage to be so light because my driving is so progressive that I don't use much energy. My battery is very small. This said I had to use a bigger lipo for the 15min A final (on the vid) so I'll have to be careful not to change the weight too much between the 5min quals and the 15min finals
You will be fine without the front gearbox for a race, just don't nosedive too hard.
I broke the rear part of the front gearbox where the shock towers are fixed so I won't be able to drive without it
. I ordered the part at jespares in UK but I already know it won't be here for sunday It's a great opportunity to have a feedback of a team even for a beginner or a club level racer like me, I hope to see more vids on this thread JQ is about the only brand that does that for its clients.
Last edited by Pulse_; 04-04-2012 at 11:23 AM.
04-17-2012, 10:31 PM
#50
Which Blues are you referring to?
My LHS has these:
Kyosho 70mm Big Bore Front Shock Spring (Light Blue - Medium/Hard) (2)
Kyosho 70mm Big Bore Front Shock Spring (Orange) (2)
Kyosho 84mm Big Bore Medium Length Shock Spring (Light Blue - Medium/Hard) (2)
Kyosho 84mm Big Bore Medium Length Shock Spring (Orange) (2)
They also list IS106-816: Blue - 8 turns/1.6 wire instead of light blue..
Thanks!
My LHS has these:
Kyosho 70mm Big Bore Front Shock Spring (Light Blue - Medium/Hard) (2)
Kyosho 70mm Big Bore Front Shock Spring (Orange) (2)
Kyosho 84mm Big Bore Medium Length Shock Spring (Light Blue - Medium/Hard) (2)
Kyosho 84mm Big Bore Medium Length Shock Spring (Orange) (2)
They also list IS106-816: Blue - 8 turns/1.6 wire instead of light blue..
Thanks!
04-17-2012, 11:15 PM
#51
Light blue
04-29-2012, 08:52 PM
#52
Thanks JQ!
While I have the car apart, are the 1 piece shock caps and softer bladders a necessary upgrade, or should I stay with the stock setup with Kyosho springs and CSI pistons?
I haven't done 1/8 buggy racing yet so I picked up a used chassis and am putting in an RCM e-conversion kit.
Thanks!
While I have the car apart, are the 1 piece shock caps and softer bladders a necessary upgrade, or should I stay with the stock setup with Kyosho springs and CSI pistons?
I haven't done 1/8 buggy racing yet so I picked up a used chassis and am putting in an RCM e-conversion kit.
Thanks!
06-18-2012, 02:46 AM
#53
THE car is getting faster and faster
Just finished 2nd yesterday with last Chris Marrale setup and some mods:
http://jq-products.com/jqpdf/JQ-THEC...ing%202012.pdf
The car is so much more planted from the rear than before! And turns just as good. A little less agressive but provides easier handling and faster laptimes.
I'll post the vid of the A final were I finished 1st as soon as possible
. I feel a bit alone on this thread so I hope I will get some feedback 
Just need CSI pistons and Kyosho springs now..
Just finished 2nd yesterday with last Chris Marrale setup and some mods:
http://jq-products.com/jqpdf/JQ-THEC...ing%202012.pdf
The car is so much more planted from the rear than before! And turns just as good. A little less agressive but provides easier handling and faster laptimes.
I'll post the vid of the A final were I finished 1st as soon as possible
. I feel a bit alone on this thread so I hope I will get some feedback Just need CSI pistons and Kyosho springs now..
06-18-2012, 11:27 AM
#55
, the video is loadingConcerning the mount the GBS Usinages doesn't allow kyosho composite spur to fit because it's too large so make sure you don't wanna go for plastic
. I'm running the rcmonster for this reason even if I prefer the design of the GBS
06-19-2012, 05:01 PM
#57
THE car is getting faster and faster
Just finished 2nd yesterday with last Chris Marrale setup and some mods:
http://jq-products.com/jqpdf/JQ-THEC...ing%202012.pdf
The car is so much more planted from the rear than before! And turns just as good. A little less agressive but provides easier handling and faster laptimes.
I'll post the vid of the A final were I finished 1st as soon as possible. I feel a bit alone on this thread so I hope I will get some feedback
Just need CSI pistons and Kyosho springs now..
Just finished 2nd yesterday with last Chris Marrale setup and some mods:
http://jq-products.com/jqpdf/JQ-THEC...ing%202012.pdf
The car is so much more planted from the rear than before! And turns just as good. A little less agressive but provides easier handling and faster laptimes.
I'll post the vid of the A final were I finished 1st as soon as possible
. I feel a bit alone on this thread so I hope I will get some feedback Just need CSI pistons and Kyosho springs now..
Hole #2 in front camber link
2.3 front, 2.5 rear swaybar
0 pill for rear toe in
1 up front-front plate for more kickup
JQ Soft rear springs (similar to Kyosho Dark Green, or losi silver)
CSI Red pistons, Losi 80wt front, 50wt rear. CSI Blue would be better starting point though.
Hole #9 in rear link, stock on hub. Although you may prefer longer rear link. This rear shock setup has normal droop like other cars, which has less, but more consistent traction and you can run lighter rear oil.
No weights in centerline, all on side guards. 8 - 7g weights on each side, so112g total. This is something where you could drill holes in side guards and lead weight, and see what you like best.
10-5-3 diffs, but 7-5-3 would be good to start with
+2mm rear hexes, those should be available on next distributor order. Contrary to theory of extending wheelbase, I thought that the extended rear hexes gave the car more side bite, and felt much better overall.
06-20-2012, 12:25 AM
#58
Glad you liked it, the handling characteristics you mentioned were exactly what I was aiming towards these past few months when I was changing my setup. That setup was from a few months ago, below are differences in my current setup.
Hole #2 in front camber link
2.3 front, 2.5 rear swaybar
0 pill for rear toe in
1 up front-front plate for more kickup
JQ Soft rear springs (similar to Kyosho Dark Green, or losi silver)
CSI Red pistons, Losi 80wt front, 50wt rear. CSI Blue would be better starting point though.
Hole #9 in rear link, stock on hub. Although you may prefer longer rear link. This rear shock setup has normal droop like other cars, which has less, but more consistent traction and you can run lighter rear oil.
No weights in centerline, all on side guards. 8 - 7g weights on each side, so112g total. This is something where you could drill holes in side guards and lead weight, and see what you like best.
10-5-3 diffs, but 7-5-3 would be good to start with
+2mm rear hexes, those should be available on next distributor order. Contrary to theory of extending wheelbase, I thought that the extended rear hexes gave the car more side bite, and felt much better overall.
Hole #2 in front camber link
2.3 front, 2.5 rear swaybar
0 pill for rear toe in
1 up front-front plate for more kickup
JQ Soft rear springs (similar to Kyosho Dark Green, or losi silver)
CSI Red pistons, Losi 80wt front, 50wt rear. CSI Blue would be better starting point though.
Hole #9 in rear link, stock on hub. Although you may prefer longer rear link. This rear shock setup has normal droop like other cars, which has less, but more consistent traction and you can run lighter rear oil.
No weights in centerline, all on side guards. 8 - 7g weights on each side, so112g total. This is something where you could drill holes in side guards and lead weight, and see what you like best.
10-5-3 diffs, but 7-5-3 would be good to start with
+2mm rear hexes, those should be available on next distributor order. Contrary to theory of extending wheelbase, I thought that the extended rear hexes gave the car more side bite, and felt much better overall.
. I'm using your setups from the beginning and the improvement between the 2011 and 2012 setup is massive so I'll continue with your way. It suits my driving style perfectly. The thing is I started to modify your 2011 setup for me and ended with a setup that was similar to your 2012 setup that I discovered last week..so I just used it 
. I will definitely try these mods and order CSI pistons
07-02-2012, 02:46 AM
#59
07-09-2012, 01:40 PM
#60
Did all the JQ drivers disappear? 
So what do you think about the car, how it handles in the last vid? I know I need to work my skills but if nobody answers I will switch and buy a.....hum...losi? no... mugen? no.... i WILL BUY A DAMN ROD AND GO FISHING RATHER THAN SPEND MY TIME ON LITTLE TOY CARS
j/k
So what do you think about the car, how it handles in the last vid? I know I need to work my skills but if nobody answers I will switch and buy a.....hum...losi? no... mugen? no.... i WILL BUY A DAMN ROD AND GO FISHING RATHER THAN SPEND MY TIME ON LITTLE TOY CARS
j/k