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Old 10-26-2005, 06:31 PM   #1246
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not the post itself, but the two plastic parts that swivel.
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Old 10-28-2005, 04:28 AM   #1247
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Hi guys, have a question. Is there anything I should consider upgrading in the RTR version? Well besides the Force 26 and the servos, that'll be replaced with an OS 21RG and the same JR servos I have in my other buggies in the near future. So far the buggy's holding up great for me. I have to admit this is a very impressive buggy for an RTR.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:15 AM   #1248
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I'm not sure how durable the RTR version is but I would look into upgrading to CNC knuckles and a CNC front shock tower.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:17 AM   #1249
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i second that. those are two of the most stressed areas.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:22 AM   #1250
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exactly... Based on my experience with casted knuckles, they are very weak. You can get CNC knuckles from HK for about 45US
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Old 10-28-2005, 08:27 AM   #1251
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if you want to spend the bucks you should get the pro kit's chassis.
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Old 10-28-2005, 12:18 PM   #1252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeatherB
haha... I ordered about $450 of spare parts, so don't feel too bad.
Yeah, me too. In fact, they call me Gear Box since I show up with amounts to a complete hobby shop for my Jammin X1 Cr and Hot Bodies Stadium Pro. I continually sell parts to other racers who break at the track. LOL
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Old 10-28-2005, 12:23 PM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
My lap times got slower when I moved the rear hubs on the two Florida tracks I tried it on. I tried it, since so many factory guys run that setting, but for me the added wheel spin and excess rotation(from the rear) hurt my lap times. Basically, since my car had good steering already, freeing up the back wasn't helpfull. But if someone is on a track that gives a push, it may be the way to go.

Jim
So Jim, where do like to run your rear hubs on the Jammin? Front, center, rear.
I've just gone through my Jammin and set it up like Aaron's with the rear fully back and the 3.5 rear toe plate. I haven't run this yet. I run in the Southeast whose tracks are typically stickier than the West Coast tracks. What do you think?
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Old 10-28-2005, 02:25 PM   #1254
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Thank you for the quick replies. I'll replace the knuckles and shock towers when I get the chance.
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Old 10-28-2005, 03:11 PM   #1255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
I never heard a date for putting the new brakes into the kits..but it has been a while, so it shouldn't be a problem.

My setup:

Front
B-block
Shock length 102mm
40 wt. Losi oil
#54 pistons.
Inside on the arm, middle on the tower.
Upper arm middle, ackerman middle hole.
2 degrees negative camber, slight toe-out.
Stock sway-bar

Rear
3.5 degree toe block, 1 degree anti-squat
Shock length 125 mm
27.5 Losi oil
#54 pistons
Shocks middle on the tower, inside on the arm
Camber link outside hole on hub, drilled in the tower (more on this later)
2 degrees negative camber
Stock sway-bar

Diff oils f/c/r 5K/7K/2K

Arms dremeled for maximum downtravel.

For the rear camber link..I have another hole drilled, further inside
than the two rows already on the shock tower. I am running what would
be in between the bottom two holes on the stock "inside row". Adam is
currently using what would be one hole up from that. You've gotta dremel
some stuff back there to get clearance.
Aaron: wouldn't that setup be great for the loose tracks of S. CA, Arizona and Utah but maybe not so good for the hard packed clay tracks of the Southern US? Having the rear diff setup at 2k with the rear hubs moved all the way back doesn't seem the best way to go for high traction tracks with lots of tight turns. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 10-28-2005, 06:43 PM   #1256
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slrguy, I race in the southeast as well and lately tracks in Florida have gotten better traction and even blue grooved on occasion, but there are still good ole' sandy Florida tracks around too.

I usually ran the hubs middle, but all the team guys run them back usually, so I tried it and had poor results. I'm thinking they must be on rougher tracks with good grip where the stability is more important then rear traction.

For a tight good traction track i'd try middle, or for a tight loose track maybe even forward. Save the hubs back set up for rough stuff or when your car feels "pushy"..............jmo, Jim
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:29 PM   #1257
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hey guys,
i just ran my buggy today for the 2nd time since i've gotten it and all i can say is just WOW! i am so impressed with the handling of this buggy and especially the durability. i was victim to several head-on collisions from various angles. i can proudly say that the only thing that i have broken is the front B-block, which was plastic anyways. i wanted it to break before i bought an aluminum one. should i replace the bottom one aswell?

i run on a small, tight track with only one jump. the surface was pretty loamy today, so i switched to proline knuckles with hooked up great. i ran with an RB S5 engine linked to a Jammin JP-1 pipe. the competition was mostly all Mugen MBX-5's with RB WS7 II and high dollar Novarossi pipes. it just goes to show that you can do very well without having to spend the big bucks. i was the only buggy who stayed on the track the entire time!
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Old 10-29-2005, 04:18 PM   #1258
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Running a shorter wheelbase is better for tight technical tracks and will give you
better off power turn in.
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Old 10-29-2005, 04:26 PM   #1259
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i'll give it a try next time.
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Old 10-29-2005, 04:28 PM   #1260
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Me too... I'll try it when I take out the buggy in the summer.
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