Novarossi P5xl discussions
05-24-2010, 11:32 PM
#1
Novarossi P5xl discussions
Hello. I'm a big p5 fan and the other thread got lost in the mix somewhere.
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I'm sure it will get answered by me or another die hard racer.
I just put the TKO ceramics in my p5 and wow what a difference. I also added a bit of caster oil to my gen 2 Byrons 25% fuel and it seemed to like the added compression and so on. I think fuel needs plenty of oil so it never hurts to listen to Novarossi's guidelines about fuel percentages.
My absolute favorite setup is 1.0 kyosho springs with Mugen hard alluminum shoes now this is for buggy so just to let you know. 7.5mm restrictor and the 9853ss pipe with the 41021 header. Save yourself the trouble and get Novarossi headers and pipes, they just work better and don't get bent up. Now the 9886 pipe only comes in the thinner configuration so the dynamite may be more durable with that high speed pipe, but honestly the 9853ss is perfect. No loss of top end and a bit more midrange oomph...Now for the glowplugs. I like the mccoy mc-8 medium plug because it works in every condition. The cold plugs can cause flames, and the hot plugs work fine, but burn out quickly so over the years I've found the mc-8 to work best.
One other point about the p5 is the front bearing, at around the 2-3 gallon mark it needs to be changed, I had never had this issue but they seem to be of less quality than older engines, however, the rear bearing is really nice and should last a long time.
Cleaning. At the same time you change the front bearing or both, while you have it apart clean everything, I use denatured alcohol and wd40, the top of the piston gets carbon buildup, I use that foam backed fine furniture sandpaper, I find a billion uses for that stuff. It bends around curves and works great on pipes and the clutch bearing area on the crankshaft too, and buff the crankshaft with a wire wheel on a dremel to remove rust or whatever. I live in a humid environment so rust is really tough to keep away. When reassembling the engine coat the parts with marvel mystery oil or whatever assembly oil you use, and your engine will thank you. I never believed that taking an engine apart would be worth the trouble, trust me it is, and I recommend doing this every three gallons just to inspect the con rod and bearings and so on.
On tuning. I have found that many racers lean the high speed needle and then fatten the low speed needle to compensate, then raise the idle, the top end needle likes to be flush or just sticking out 1-2mm to have plenty of fuel during the high speed burn. And to keep the engine running it needs to idle smoothly with a properly adjusted low speed needle. Don't be afraid to turn that one in until it will idle and not die for some time. If the idle goes up then open up the idle screw to slow the idle until your engine just purrs along without the wheels spinning. It should idle without engaging the clutch. Then readjust the low speed needle and then go drive it on the track. If it seems a bit slow o the top give it 5 laps to warm up then top it off with fuel and drive it hard like in race conditions and if then it's not quite topping out lean the high speed only 1 hour at a time or less. Tak it easy on tuning your engine. It doesn't have to go into orbit every time you pull the trigger. Then when it seems to top out on the strait come in and check the idle again. If it's gurgly on acceleration lean it a bit, and if when you pull in it idles fast fatten the low speed needle just barely, that needle is sensitive to adjustments. It's amazing what a tiny change can have on the idle and the acceleration.....
Now go try it out......
Just some tips for more fun at the track I hope this helps.
If you have any questions feel free to ask and I'm sure it will get answered by me or another die hard racer.
I just put the TKO ceramics in my p5 and wow what a difference. I also added a bit of caster oil to my gen 2 Byrons 25% fuel and it seemed to like the added compression and so on. I think fuel needs plenty of oil so it never hurts to listen to Novarossi's guidelines about fuel percentages.
My absolute favorite setup is 1.0 kyosho springs with Mugen hard alluminum shoes now this is for buggy so just to let you know. 7.5mm restrictor and the 9853ss pipe with the 41021 header. Save yourself the trouble and get Novarossi headers and pipes, they just work better and don't get bent up. Now the 9886 pipe only comes in the thinner configuration so the dynamite may be more durable with that high speed pipe, but honestly the 9853ss is perfect. No loss of top end and a bit more midrange oomph...Now for the glowplugs. I like the mccoy mc-8 medium plug because it works in every condition. The cold plugs can cause flames, and the hot plugs work fine, but burn out quickly so over the years I've found the mc-8 to work best.
One other point about the p5 is the front bearing, at around the 2-3 gallon mark it needs to be changed, I had never had this issue but they seem to be of less quality than older engines, however, the rear bearing is really nice and should last a long time.
Cleaning. At the same time you change the front bearing or both, while you have it apart clean everything, I use denatured alcohol and wd40, the top of the piston gets carbon buildup, I use that foam backed fine furniture sandpaper, I find a billion uses for that stuff. It bends around curves and works great on pipes and the clutch bearing area on the crankshaft too, and buff the crankshaft with a wire wheel on a dremel to remove rust or whatever. I live in a humid environment so rust is really tough to keep away. When reassembling the engine coat the parts with marvel mystery oil or whatever assembly oil you use, and your engine will thank you. I never believed that taking an engine apart would be worth the trouble, trust me it is, and I recommend doing this every three gallons just to inspect the con rod and bearings and so on.
On tuning. I have found that many racers lean the high speed needle and then fatten the low speed needle to compensate, then raise the idle, the top end needle likes to be flush or just sticking out 1-2mm to have plenty of fuel during the high speed burn. And to keep the engine running it needs to idle smoothly with a properly adjusted low speed needle. Don't be afraid to turn that one in until it will idle and not die for some time. If the idle goes up then open up the idle screw to slow the idle until your engine just purrs along without the wheels spinning. It should idle without engaging the clutch. Then readjust the low speed needle and then go drive it on the track. If it seems a bit slow o the top give it 5 laps to warm up then top it off with fuel and drive it hard like in race conditions and if then it's not quite topping out lean the high speed only 1 hour at a time or less. Tak it easy on tuning your engine. It doesn't have to go into orbit every time you pull the trigger. Then when it seems to top out on the strait come in and check the idle again. If it's gurgly on acceleration lean it a bit, and if when you pull in it idles fast fatten the low speed needle just barely, that needle is sensitive to adjustments. It's amazing what a tiny change can have on the idle and the acceleration.....
Now go try it out......
Just some tips for more fun at the track I hope this helps.
05-25-2010, 12:25 AM
#3
Tech Adept
Merideth Roach are you the one that posts reviews on a main for products you dont own or have even tried?
Last edited by J.Whiting; 05-25-2010 at 01:03 PM.
05-25-2010, 08:19 AM
#4
Merideth Roach are you the one that posts reviews on a main for products you dont own or have even tried? Cause his name is similar to your user name and he too just bought tko bearings and reviewed it. If it is piss off and stop spamming a main with your speculations on products that you have not even owned
Last edited by RC-ZOMBIE; 05-25-2010 at 11:38 AM.
05-25-2010, 09:01 AM
#5
I read the A-Main review on the bearing and it seems to be on par. I have a
P5xs, which I'm about to have pinched. I plan to replace the bearings with TKO ceramics. I was told to remove the inside seal on the front bearing for lubrication. I also plan to have the crank silicone filled. I use the same pipe, header and plug combo as you do. This is going to be my back-up buggy motor. Great that you are sharing info.
P5xs, which I'm about to have pinched. I plan to replace the bearings with TKO ceramics. I was told to remove the inside seal on the front bearing for lubrication. I also plan to have the crank silicone filled. I use the same pipe, header and plug combo as you do. This is going to be my back-up buggy motor. Great that you are sharing info.
05-25-2010, 09:13 AM
#6
I know Merdith. He's been in this hobby a LONG time and he can wheel it with the best of them. I don't always agree with what he writes but I respect his opinions AND his right to have them. Some of you ought to try that on for size instead of flaming.
Back to topic. I'm pretty well committed to OS engines right now, but I think the P5 is a great mill for the money and at some point I will definitely own one.
Back to topic. I'm pretty well committed to OS engines right now, but I think the P5 is a great mill for the money and at some point I will definitely own one.
05-25-2010, 10:16 AM
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
I know Merdith. He's been in this hobby a LONG time and he can wheel it with the best of them. I don't always agree with what he writes but I respect his opinions AND his right to have them. Some of you ought to try that on for size instead of flaming.
Back to topic. I'm pretty well committed to OS engines right now, but I think the P5 is a great mill for the money and at some point I will definitely own one.
Back to topic. I'm pretty well committed to OS engines right now, but I think the P5 is a great mill for the money and at some point I will definitely own one.
Also a 2013 pipe is my personal pipe I like.
05-25-2010, 01:05 PM
#8
Super Moderator
iTrader: (63)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
if there is any more negative comments thread will be closed and infractions will be given out... please stay on topic.... your moderator
also running a 053 pipe, it seems to like it!
05-26-2010, 05:23 AM
#11
Suspended
Just bought a Nova P5 XLT, and now i'm looking for the best pipe, ( performance vs runtime), i will run the engine in a buggy.
Best regards!
Best regards!
05-26-2010, 06:27 AM
#13
05-26-2010, 07:06 AM
#14
I got mine broke in, going to track test it sat. I will give u guys an update.