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Old 08-12-2009, 11:35 AM   #316
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rangerjkb
not sure what piston you are using but try 1.2's with 25 wt front and 17.5 rear. the 1.2's are the pistons that come in kit that are not labled.
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Old 08-13-2009, 10:58 PM   #317
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I run 1.4 piston in the front and i drilled the rear to 1.28 and run 40 and 30 weight oil. I Haven't done much running like that but the buggy seemed to like it. Takes the low speed bumps really well.
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:31 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smb17 View Post
I run 1.4 piston in the front and i drilled the rear to 1.28 and run 40 and 30 weight oil. I Haven't done much running like that but the buggy seemed to like it. Takes the low speed bumps really well.
That sounds about right... I run Losi oil, like Chad does, but I've tried going with the stock 1.4 pistons in the rear, and you just need to thicken up the oil a bit but it works fine. He runs drilled out 1.35 pistons, and that's what came with on mine (I got the pro-built version), but I changed out the rear shocks with a set of pre-built units I had built for hot weather with thicker oil, and then someone swiped my shock parts box containing the original rear shocks, so I no longer have the ones that came on the car with the 1.35 hole pistons in them... (Damn thieves!) But I've found 1.4 work fine, just raise the thickness of your oil 5 wt. or so...
\
As far as the center driveshafts go... They really don't wear that quickly. They just need to be changed out during regular maintenance intervals as described by the manual/common sense. They won't last forever, or maybe even as long as all-steel universals, but when you want the utmost performance, and a lighter drivetrain is in order, you really need to weigh the benefits//costs. I've found they are more than durable enough to last through a few months of solid racing every weekend or every other we. So, unless you are a noob or just expect to never have to replace a part on your car unless it breaks... etc... Just maintain it, and don't complain, or get the steel uni's they have available and sacrifice a few grams to gain durability. The rear shouldn't scrub the engine mount and/or the block unless you are using the wrong gearing/the one-piece engine mount, or have an extraordinary mill that sticks way out at that spot... I have used the stock two-piece engine mounts and it had plenty of clearance, and am now running the one-piece mount and have had it rub, but ground down the block slightly on the corner and now it clears fine. This should be an easy fix, so if it happens, fix it, and go on racing...

-J
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Old 08-19-2009, 02:00 PM   #319
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As far as the center driveshafts go... They really don't wear that quickly. They just need to be changed out during regular maintenance intervals as described by the manual/common sense. They won't last forever, or maybe even as long as all-steel universals. Still need to make it more then 1-2 gallons. I asked chad about this problem,and he stated that they used to soft of a metal on the first ones. But have since been using harder material for the cups[center] so we won't see this premature wear.
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:57 PM   #320
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Default Jammin X2 for sale!!!

If any one want to get a good deal on JAMMIN X2 with a RB S5 engine almost new, servos alot of spare parts, receicer batt, 3 nice bodies painted by me,tires , ext hubs. Check www.garcracers.com under for sale items
REALLY GOOD DEAL ---NO BULL

Thanks
Melvin
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:39 PM   #321
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Ran the Futaba/O.S. Challenge this weekend (80-87 degree temps and a semi-smooth surface, rolling elevation changes and many jump obstacles throughout track) and used heavier weight oil F 37.5-blue spring/ R 27.5-white spring, Losi Oils and 1.35 pistons and had much more drivablity consistency for my abilities. Used a 1.0 rear anti-squat for additional forward traction, which didn't sacrifice steering as much as I thought it would. Kept the car rear end from kicking out unexpectidly. Will experiment with the recomendations provided in all the very helpfull posts and keep looking forward to each opportunity to run the Jammin X2 CR...it just keeps getting better as I begin to become reaquainted with it's characteristics. Watching the Jammin pro's this weekend was amazing as they all did exceptionally well, Congrat's!
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Old 08-24-2009, 12:28 AM   #322
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More people need to get talking in here!
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Old 08-24-2009, 08:09 AM   #323
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i hear you there

i just got my jammin X2 electric from jay and and outting it together this week! Looks good so far. i will be hopefully getting it out on the track this weekend.
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Old 08-24-2009, 08:23 AM   #324
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Anyone run out at revelation raceway? I been going to the practices and stuff but never see any jammin' cars.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:18 AM   #325
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Just to keep things going any one got some awesome videos?
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:42 PM   #326
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Ran the X2CR setup with 1.0 Rear Anti-Squat plate, F 37.5 Losi oil/R 27.5 Losi oil with 1.35 pistons all around on our local track, 75-80 degrees, (hard packed with loose edges, medium size, many tight turns and several jumps/obstacles at Whitehousehobbies.com). Had great success and car had stability and predictability throughout. Some loss of off power steering, but maintained plenty of on power steering without the rear end kicking abruptly. If using a more agressive tire (Caliber), the car was glued. I ran a less agressive tire (Revolver) to free it up and was much more forgiving, resulting in better laptimes for my current driving abilities. The car still squats quite a bit at the rear-unloads front and am thinking of raising the center diff weight slightly (maybe 7000wt.)...any attemps/results on this already?

Rick: will the setup you recommended work well for a track full of whoops/bumps and do I stick with same springs? May need to try this at an upcoming race (Southern Indoor Classic), saw the possible layout on SGrid.
Thanks,
JB
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:19 PM   #327
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I made a lot of changes to my x-2. I used kyosho pistons 1.38's that are drilled at an angle. with losi 45 in fr and 40 in rear. set ride height to 30 rear 30 fr. car handled like a dream for me. I noticed at first it was a little stiff but as I put on about 5 laps it started to settle down. about 95 degrees outside. I have noticed that with the losi oil it warms up and flows smoother. I also put on the new x2 center cvd drive shafts. A freind of mine said that if you can find 15mm pins to put those in and the cup wearing is not as severe. He had them on his and they stuck over the cups just a little bit,but he had no cup wear after 3 gallons. I like they way the cvd's transfers the power. It seams smother.
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Old 08-25-2009, 10:15 PM   #328
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Manufacturercup=you know when the cnc balls are gonna be available for the X2?

I just switched my center drive shafts after 3.5 gallons. The center drive cups barely have any wear on them at all!!!!!!
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:38 PM   #329
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rangerjkb- that set up works really well when its rough, the harder that you drive it the detter it is.

rallyebmx- not sure on when the aluminum balls will be released. i will ask Jay next time i talk to him. Dont bother trying other brands becasue they dont work they are all weired sizes. even teh OFNA ones will not work. i tried that before i got the jammin ones.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:35 PM   #330
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Goin out to Revraceway next week going to try 1.3 piston with 35 oil front and 1.35 rear with 30 Any thoughts? What are you guys running at revelation raceway?
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