OS Speed drivability
#16
remember the X2 Truggy is much lighter in the back end then the MBX5T you were used to.... The Speed is actually a very smooth engine with a weighted crank..I would be looking at setup as your not going to find a much smoother easier to drive 21 then a Speed.....
I just read where your saying the motor has a hesitation, then it goes.... this is not normal for a Speed.... The Speed should pull smooth and steady right off idle... not lul then explode........ I would consider checking your MSN position as well as clutch engagement RPM, a low engaging clutch or out of position MSN would cause this issue...
2 weeks ago my boys were running a JPX 21 vs a Speed and by far the Speed was smoother and easier to drive, the JPX was coming on too hard out of the corners and kicking out, the Speed was tracking straight and easy....We use Speeds for loose slick tracks, and run the Picco's on high bite tracks..... Which is why I say your issues are setup related and not engine related, a Speed is actually even mellower down low then a regular V-Spec
I just read where your saying the motor has a hesitation, then it goes.... this is not normal for a Speed.... The Speed should pull smooth and steady right off idle... not lul then explode........ I would consider checking your MSN position as well as clutch engagement RPM, a low engaging clutch or out of position MSN would cause this issue...
2 weeks ago my boys were running a JPX 21 vs a Speed and by far the Speed was smoother and easier to drive, the JPX was coming on too hard out of the corners and kicking out, the Speed was tracking straight and easy....We use Speeds for loose slick tracks, and run the Picco's on high bite tracks..... Which is why I say your issues are setup related and not engine related, a Speed is actually even mellower down low then a regular V-Spec
#20
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
www.ebmods.com
#21
I beleive Hobog's motor came with his X2, so its possible the previous owner had tweaked the needles.....
#22
I just checked the mid needle and it was 3\4 to 1 turn out(rich). Maybe this explains the the so called lag I was trying to explain. It wasn't like it was a bog, it just really exploded when it got on the pipe. So maybe it was loading up in the mid and then when it finally cleared out it was making it hit real hard. Just a theory, I would love to try it out but it just snowed a few inches today.
#24
Hobdog.. The 2060 pipe WILL do the trick. if you already have the 2050, i would suggest getting the ninja 2042 pipe which is the same as the OS 2060, but it's available pipe only, and a lil cheaper... buy the pipe only and use the L header from your 2050..
The clutch your running is fine, providing it's new and works free with NO binding. I would run the 2060/2042 w/ L header, P4 plug, and a 8mm stack.
The EB head button available from www.Tonysscrews.com is a great option for anyone looking for bolt on power. The button will not affect run-time or drive-ability...As you can see in the dyno graph on the http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...en-jx21-6.html thread the power-band is very smooth and consistent. The mid range needle can be used to adjust power curve if you are an experienced tuner..
Here is a good starting point as far as setting..
IDLE: 1 full turn from just closed
LSN: 4-1/2 turns from closed
MRN: 3-3/4 turns from closed "flush" 10 o'clock
HSN: 3 turns from closed
Tune your engine on the money with the HSN & LSN, shouldn't have to touch the idle much more then an hour if at all. THEN
If you wanna adjust the mid,,, If you want more low end, lean your LSN an hour and richen your MRN an hour.... vis-versa ...the MRN and LSN work together..
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
ps. the eb BP has no major +affect on any other OS other then the EB V spec which is no longer available.
The clutch your running is fine, providing it's new and works free with NO binding. I would run the 2060/2042 w/ L header, P4 plug, and a 8mm stack.
The EB head button available from www.Tonysscrews.com is a great option for anyone looking for bolt on power. The button will not affect run-time or drive-ability...As you can see in the dyno graph on the http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...en-jx21-6.html thread the power-band is very smooth and consistent. The mid range needle can be used to adjust power curve if you are an experienced tuner..
Here is a good starting point as far as setting..
IDLE: 1 full turn from just closed
LSN: 4-1/2 turns from closed
MRN: 3-3/4 turns from closed "flush" 10 o'clock
HSN: 3 turns from closed
Tune your engine on the money with the HSN & LSN, shouldn't have to touch the idle much more then an hour if at all. THEN
If you wanna adjust the mid,,, If you want more low end, lean your LSN an hour and richen your MRN an hour.... vis-versa ...the MRN and LSN work together..
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
ps. the eb BP has no major +affect on any other OS other then the EB V spec which is no longer available.
Last edited by jpalessi; 12-13-2008 at 03:32 PM.
#25
what breakin method do you use on the speed, one post earlier said they got 9 gallons, i would be happy to get 4, let me hear from ya.
jlo
jlo
#26
I have a couple of Speeds and I stop counting at 10 gal. For the money, they are some of the best engines on the market. And yeah I said for the money.....
#27
are you saying 10 gal, with no rebuild, thats awsome, what breakin method do you use and what temps do you run
#28
#29
#30
No, I am saying 10+ gallons!! And the only screw I turned was the fuel screw. I was hobby stupid and thought it would run forever and I almost think it would. A friend finally convinced me it would die one day, so I bought another one and rebuilt the old one.... Just heat cycle it. Pro Twister breaks them in for me on a stand now but the in-car heat cycling will work. I was running it 185 - 200.