Community
Wiki Posts
Search

8T 2.0

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-12-2010, 05:29 PM
  #5506  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
reggie l.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: randallstown md.
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

got mine...







the position the links are in the pics i ened up changing once i got it on the ground i dint like how the camber was set, and my links are shortened, but not short enough to give me the camber i wanted...i moved it to the lower INSIDE hole on the tower, which is the STOCK postiton like it would be on the 1st generation shock tower...
reggie l. is offline  
Old 01-12-2010, 05:49 PM
  #5507  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (25)
 
losi_racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: mesa,az
Posts: 6,470
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by reggie l.


the position the links are in the pics i ened up changing once i got it on the ground i dint like how the camber was set, and my links are shortened, but not short enough to give me the camber i wanted...i moved it to the lower INSIDE hole on the tower, which is the STOCK postiton like it would be on the 1st generation shock tower...
reggie, i got mine last week and i was testing it last saturday, i had my links in the "stock" location but it pushed, changed the position to where yours is in the pics and then i checked my ride height and it was off so thats why it was pushing, not the camber location. my question is how is the "stock" location with the new shock location. does it allow more rotation or push a little bit?
losi_racer is offline  
Old 01-12-2010, 06:08 PM
  #5508  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
reggie l.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: randallstown md.
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by losi_racer
reggie, i got mine last week and i was testing it last saturday, i had my links in the "stock" location but it pushed, changed the position to where yours is in the pics and then i checked my ride height and it was off so thats why it was pushing, not the camber location. my question is how is the "stock" location with the new shock location. does it allow more rotation or push a little bit?
what i ment by "stock" was the 2 inside holes on the new tower are the same as the towers that came with the 2.0t's.. and all i did was move it to the lower inner hole and kept it on the last hole on the hub...i have not run it yet to give you any feed back as far as camber goes
reggie l. is offline  
Old 01-13-2010, 04:45 PM
  #5509  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Blackie001's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 190
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cdbias
In those pics it looks like the right rear outdrive cup is worn pretty badly. I can also see damage to the right rear arm where the inner hinge pin goes through. If the damage is as bad as it looks in the pic this could easily be causing the problem if it's letting the arm move back and forth. The worn edges on the outdrive cup can't be helping either.

I would fix those 2 issues and try again. I have never seen/heard of this being a problem. Hope this helps man!
Hi cdbias, the damage to the outdrive cup, lower arm & diff casing is all from the driveshaft coming out, happened several times. I'll have to replace those parts once I figure out how to fix it. I'd say it has rounded the outer corners of the outdrive cup from being soooo close to that edge & as a result, it's making it easier for the driveshafts to pop out. I have someone trying to help me out, not sure if he wants me naming him, but he's a top bloke!!


Originally Posted by randystang
are your outdrives loose if your diff bearings are gone it will let the outdrives move enough to let em pop out
Before this race meet, I installed NEW, pinion gear, ring gear, bearings, shimmed so there is the smallest of play, diff casing & the bearing cups.
The first time it popped was during practice, first thing in the morning. I even put a brand new drive shaft in.
Blackie001 is offline  
Old 01-13-2010, 06:47 PM
  #5510  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
fire929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 922
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default ????

There was a post before that said cut the rear links to the front meausurement, but the part nimbers checked with losi shows they're both
107mm. So are you guys cuttin g the rear shorter and are still making the rear 142mm total length. because the directions show the front total at 142.50mm amd the rear and 142mm
fire929 is offline  
Old 01-13-2010, 07:22 PM
  #5511  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
reggie l.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: randallstown md.
Posts: 1,362
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fire929
There was a post before that said cut the rear links to the front meausurement, but the part nimbers checked with losi shows they're both
107mm. So are you guys cuttin g the rear shorter and are still making the rear 142mm total length. because the directions show the front total at 142.50mm amd the rear and 142mm
if you take the rear off and compare it to the front its clearly longer
reggie l. is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 01:17 AM
  #5512  
Tech Initiate
 
ding_nz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 23
Questions?? Modded rear hubs

Hey TIX

Are you still doing the modded hubs for those of us downunder?
ding_nz is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 05:35 AM
  #5513  
Tech Adept
 
sicsam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 179
Default

How much play should be in the rear where the pinion meets the ring? I got a new pinion and housing to replace the old one and used the ring from my 1.0, shimmed it put it still feels like it has to much play. Im new to this so i dont know if it is supposed to be this way because dont they have a break in period too? Any help would be nice.
sicsam is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:04 AM
  #5514  
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
pballer2777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: dirty jerz
Posts: 1,854
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sicsam
How much play should be in the rear where the pinion meets the ring? I got a new pinion and housing to replace the old one and used the ring from my 1.0, shimmed it put it still feels like it has to much play. Im new to this so i dont know if it is supposed to be this way because dont they have a break in period too? Any help would be nice.
i shim new r/p til i feels alittle notchy. then after i run it alittle it will smooth out. then i check it after each race day and reshim as needed.
pballer2777 is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:09 AM
  #5515  
Tech Adept
 
sicsam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 179
Default

Originally Posted by pballer2777
i shim new r/p til i feels alittle notchy. then after i run it alittle it will smooth out. then i check it after each race day and reshim as needed.
So far i think i have 6 or 7 shims in it, is that too many?
sicsam is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:47 AM
  #5516  
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
pballer2777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: dirty jerz
Posts: 1,854
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sicsam
So far i think i have 6 or 7 shims in it, is that too many?
every diff is different
pballer2777 is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:18 AM
  #5517  
Tech Adept
 
sicsam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 179
Default

Any good upgrades or tips i should know about? Im want to get tit. turnbukles and LW diff cups to take some weight off, but i'd rather take it all of the drivetrain if i can. I seen on a-main that you can get LW pinion and driveshaft axles, has anyone used these and are they worth the money?
sicsam is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:25 AM
  #5518  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (148)
 
Frank L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NorCal
Posts: 12,520
Trader Rating: 148 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sicsam
Any good upgrades or tips i should know about? Im want to get tit. turnbukles and LW diff cups to take some weight off, but i'd rather take it all of the drivetrain if i can. I seen on a-main that you can get LW pinion and driveshaft axles, has anyone used these and are they worth the money?
Yes well worth the $$ the other big weight saver is the lightened spur gear. Also well worth the $$. On the truck the alum axles are no good they break. But the other lightened parts do provide increased acc. and let the engine spool up faster and easier.
Frank L is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:33 AM
  #5519  
Tech Adept
 
sicsam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 179
Default

The reason im asking is because there's going to be another truck setup like mine with a jpx. 28 on it @ the local track. I've already put the 48 tooth spur gear on it to try and kill some wheel spin when i take off or i hope thats what it does....

And frank, What is your setup on your truck? I seen it on another tread but cant remember which one.
sicsam is offline  
Old 01-14-2010, 11:53 AM
  #5520  
Tech Addict
 
LVBaja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posts: 655
Default

Originally Posted by sicsam
Any good upgrades or tips i should know about? Im want to get tit. turnbukles and LW diff cups to take some weight off, but i'd rather take it all of the drivetrain if i can. I seen on a-main that you can get LW pinion and driveshaft axles, has anyone used these and are they worth the money?
If you're looking for upgrades, here are a few that will save weight, improve acceleration and handling.

BCE chassis - lighter weight than stock and greatly improves handling
http://shop.bcespeed.com/product.sc;...3&categoryId=1

Losi lightened spur gear
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tial-Spur-Gear

Losi lightweight center diff outdrives
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...al-Outdrives-2

Losi lighweight f/r outdrives
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-8ight-8ight-T
LVBaja is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.