1LikesInferno MP9 thread
10-10-2016, 02:30 PM - Wikipost
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08-31-2014, 07:31 AM
I've been running aly 13° caster blocks with 91mm drive shafts all round this year and haven't had any problems whatsoever.
I had one shaft pop out and bend while using the stock plastic caster blocks, I would say this happens due to the flex in the plastic and when having awkward landings off jumps.
I had one shaft pop out and bend while using the stock plastic caster blocks, I would say this happens due to the flex in the plastic and when having awkward landings off jumps.
08-31-2014, 05:00 PM
08-31-2014, 08:46 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
09-01-2014, 10:37 PM
Tech Adept
Will
09-02-2014, 07:01 AM
From new my car had plastic hubs and 91mm shaft, no problems. But after a season as all the joints wore it started popping out. I just put a 1.5mm limiter on the outside of the shock shaft( under the boot) problem fixed. When the 91mm shafts wear out I will replace with 93mm and take out the spacer.
Will
Will
09-02-2014, 10:56 AM
From new my car had plastic hubs and 91mm shaft, no problems. But after a season as all the joints wore it started popping out. I just put a 1.5mm limiter on the outside of the shock shaft( under the boot) problem fixed. When the 91mm shafts wear out I will replace with 93mm and take out the spacer.
Will
Will
09-02-2014, 12:19 PM
You will still get full droop with the spacer on the outside of the shock body, but will not get full compression. I did this for a while and had no issues.
09-03-2014, 05:42 AM
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Last edited by RiPPeN302; 09-03-2014 at 03:57 PM.
09-04-2014, 09:28 PM
Tech Rookie
I need a little help guys. When I try to roll into a corner the car spins out all weird. This does not happen when I am on-power, but the car pushes a bit on-power. Any ideas as to what to try?
09-05-2014, 08:41 AM
Ok guys, forgive me if these questions have been asked and answered elsewhere in this thread, but I really couldn't read thru 17,000 posts over a six year period.
I'm getting back into racing 1/8th nitro buggies after several years off. My last buggy was a 7.5 Kania edition. I'm considering getting another Kyosho but after doing a little research on the MP9 I've got some concerns.
If I buy another Kyosho it will be the TKI3 kit. What do I need to do to address any shortcomings of the nearly $900 kit? The price is a concern, especially if I have to spend even more money to make it right.
I've read there are issues with:
1. the front arms breaking easily
2. clutch bell hitting the chassis during flex
3. front dog bones popping out
Anything else I need to be aware of?
The clutch bell hitting the chassis and the possible destruction of those expensive parts or damage to the engine is definitely a concern.
Having to spend even more money to buy longer front universals for a brand new kit sucks too. If the kit parts don't work them why haven't they included the proper universals with the kit?
Any input on this decision is appreciated. And again, I apologize if these answers are buried here somewhere.
I'm getting back into racing 1/8th nitro buggies after several years off. My last buggy was a 7.5 Kania edition. I'm considering getting another Kyosho but after doing a little research on the MP9 I've got some concerns.
If I buy another Kyosho it will be the TKI3 kit. What do I need to do to address any shortcomings of the nearly $900 kit? The price is a concern, especially if I have to spend even more money to make it right.
I've read there are issues with:
1. the front arms breaking easily
2. clutch bell hitting the chassis during flex
3. front dog bones popping out
Anything else I need to be aware of?
The clutch bell hitting the chassis and the possible destruction of those expensive parts or damage to the engine is definitely a concern.
Having to spend even more money to buy longer front universals for a brand new kit sucks too. If the kit parts don't work them why haven't they included the proper universals with the kit?
Any input on this decision is appreciated. And again, I apologize if these answers are buried here somewhere.
09-05-2014, 01:52 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
1. Front arms dont break unless you have a bad wreck.
2. Just buy the 1mm shims or run the 7.5 mount from your old car to raise the engine to aviod it hitting the chassis. ( what im doing with no issues)
3. Just use three shims on the axles to shim them closer to the diff cups.
The car is worth the money. If you go somewhere else you will end up spending the same after your done spending money on hop ups that come standard on the MP9 kit.
2. Just buy the 1mm shims or run the 7.5 mount from your old car to raise the engine to aviod it hitting the chassis. ( what im doing with no issues)
3. Just use three shims on the axles to shim them closer to the diff cups.
The car is worth the money. If you go somewhere else you will end up spending the same after your done spending money on hop ups that come standard on the MP9 kit.
09-05-2014, 03:22 PM
1. Ive not broken an arm in buggy or truggy. Kyosho plastics are the benchmark imo.
2. You have a few options, buy an m2c engine mount for $40 odd, buy the m2c 1mm spacer for $5, run your blue mounts off your mp7.5, or just run it stock which is what I do. Never had issues.
3. Easy to prevent by shimming the axles inboard a touch or running the aluminium c-hubs.
However if you orientate your suspension pills to have narrow track at the front (which is the best way to run the buggy imo) it will be impossible for the dogbone to pop out. If your running narrow track at the front the 93mm will not even fit in, hence why I think kyosho did not include them, the 91's are the correct part to include with the kit.
2. You have a few options, buy an m2c engine mount for $40 odd, buy the m2c 1mm spacer for $5, run your blue mounts off your mp7.5, or just run it stock which is what I do. Never had issues.
3. Easy to prevent by shimming the axles inboard a touch or running the aluminium c-hubs.
However if you orientate your suspension pills to have narrow track at the front (which is the best way to run the buggy imo) it will be impossible for the dogbone to pop out. If your running narrow track at the front the 93mm will not even fit in, hence why I think kyosho did not include them, the 91's are the correct part to include with the kit.
09-05-2014, 06:04 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
Ok guys, forgive me if these questions have been asked and answered elsewhere in this thread, but I really couldn't read thru 17,000 posts over a six year period.
I'm getting back into racing 1/8th nitro buggies after several years off. My last buggy was a 7.5 Kania edition. I'm considering getting another Kyosho but after doing a little research on the MP9 I've got some concerns.
If I buy another Kyosho it will be the TKI3 kit. What do I need to do to address any shortcomings of the nearly $900 kit? The price is a concern, especially if I have to spend even more money to make it right.
I've read there are issues with:
1. the front arms breaking easily
2. clutch bell hitting the chassis during flex
3. front dog bones popping out
Anything else I need to be aware of?
The clutch bell hitting the chassis and the possible destruction of those expensive parts or damage to the engine is definitely a concern.
Having to spend even more money to buy longer front universals for a brand new kit sucks too. If the kit parts don't work them why haven't they included the proper universals with the kit?
Any input on this decision is appreciated. And again, I apologize if these answers are buried here somewhere.
I'm getting back into racing 1/8th nitro buggies after several years off. My last buggy was a 7.5 Kania edition. I'm considering getting another Kyosho but after doing a little research on the MP9 I've got some concerns.
If I buy another Kyosho it will be the TKI3 kit. What do I need to do to address any shortcomings of the nearly $900 kit? The price is a concern, especially if I have to spend even more money to make it right.
I've read there are issues with:
1. the front arms breaking easily
2. clutch bell hitting the chassis during flex
3. front dog bones popping out
Anything else I need to be aware of?
The clutch bell hitting the chassis and the possible destruction of those expensive parts or damage to the engine is definitely a concern.
Having to spend even more money to buy longer front universals for a brand new kit sucks too. If the kit parts don't work them why haven't they included the proper universals with the kit?
Any input on this decision is appreciated. And again, I apologize if these answers are buried here somewhere.
1. The front arms are weak in my opinion, but if you boil them for about 10 minutes they will be much more durable. I've actually bent the hinge pins without breaking the arm.
2. Clutch bell hitting isn't really a problem in my opinion. Just cosmetic. But running the engine mounts from the 7.5 or 777 will fix the problem because it moves the motor up 1mm. Other run the king heads extended motor mount. I've run both and they both work.
3. The cheapest and, in my opinion, best way to solve this problem is to buy the Agama outdrives. Look back a couple pages where I posted a link. I think they're only $10 at amain. You only need them in the front. They are a little longer than the Kyosho outdrives. I haven't had a single universal pop out since I made this change over a year ago. They are a perfect fit.
You can also get these cars much cheaper than $900. I know you can get them for 500 euros (about $650 + shipping) from www.the-kyosho-store.com if you can wait about 10 days to get one. You need to create an account to get the discounted price. They are in France but several on this site, including me, have ordered from there. They are legit.
This is the best car I've ever driven. You won't be disappointed.
Hope this helps.
09-05-2014, 06:16 PM
1. Front arms dont break unless you have a bad wreck.
2. Just buy the 1mm shims or run the 7.5 mount from your old car to raise the engine to aviod it hitting the chassis. ( what im doing with no issues)
3. Just use three shims on the axles to shim them closer to the diff cups.
The car is worth the money. If you go somewhere else you will end up spending the same after your done spending money on hop ups that come standard on the MP9 kit.
2. Just buy the 1mm shims or run the 7.5 mount from your old car to raise the engine to aviod it hitting the chassis. ( what im doing with no issues)
3. Just use three shims on the axles to shim them closer to the diff cups.
The car is worth the money. If you go somewhere else you will end up spending the same after your done spending money on hop ups that come standard on the MP9 kit.
1. Ive not broken an arm in buggy or truggy. Kyosho plastics are the benchmark imo.
2. You have a few options, buy an m2c engine mount for $40 odd, buy the m2c 1mm spacer for $5, run your blue mounts off your mp7.5, or just run it stock which is what I do. Never had issues.
3. Easy to prevent by shimming the axles inboard a touch or running the aluminium c-hubs.
However if you orientate your suspension pills to have narrow track at the front (which is the best way to run the buggy imo) it will be impossible for the dogbone to pop out. If your running narrow track at the front the 93mm will not even fit in, hence why I think kyosho did not include them, the 91's are the correct part to include with the kit.
2. You have a few options, buy an m2c engine mount for $40 odd, buy the m2c 1mm spacer for $5, run your blue mounts off your mp7.5, or just run it stock which is what I do. Never had issues.
3. Easy to prevent by shimming the axles inboard a touch or running the aluminium c-hubs.
However if you orientate your suspension pills to have narrow track at the front (which is the best way to run the buggy imo) it will be impossible for the dogbone to pop out. If your running narrow track at the front the 93mm will not even fit in, hence why I think kyosho did not include them, the 91's are the correct part to include with the kit.
I picked up a lightly used TKI2 with two HiTec 7945SH servos and a ProTek lipo rec battery. Owner letting me go through it before committing to purchase. Needs a few things, but seems to be in decent shape. Thinking about adding the TKI3 update parts and running it til it breaks.
It has the optional thick hard anodized gold front shock tower - IF436. Is the TKI3 part - IF477 - for $80 really worth upgrading to? I definitely wanna upgrade the radio box parts.
Anything else I should check for while looking it over?
09-05-2014, 06:21 PM
I've been running this car for about three years now and here's what I've found.
1. The front arms are weak in my opinion, but if you boil them for about 10 minutes they will be much more durable. I've actually bent the hinge pins without breaking the arm.
2. Clutch bell hitting isn't really a problem in my opinion. Just cosmetic. But running the engine mounts from the 7.5 or 777 will fix the problem because it moves the motor up 1mm. Other run the king heads extended motor mount. I've run both and they both work.
3. The cheapest and, in my opinion, best way to solve this problem is to buy the Agama outdrives. Look back a couple pages where I posted a link. I think they're only $10 at amain. You only need them in the front. They are a little longer than the Kyosho outdrives. I haven't had a single universal pop out since I made this change over a year ago. They are a perfect fit.
You can also get these cars much cheaper than $900. I know you can get them for 500 euros (about $650 + shipping) from www.the-kyosho-store.com if you can wait about 10 days to get one. You need to create an account to get the discounted price. They are in France but several on this site, including me, have ordered from there. They are legit.
This is the best car I've ever driven. You won't be disappointed.
Hope this helps.
1. The front arms are weak in my opinion, but if you boil them for about 10 minutes they will be much more durable. I've actually bent the hinge pins without breaking the arm.
2. Clutch bell hitting isn't really a problem in my opinion. Just cosmetic. But running the engine mounts from the 7.5 or 777 will fix the problem because it moves the motor up 1mm. Other run the king heads extended motor mount. I've run both and they both work.
3. The cheapest and, in my opinion, best way to solve this problem is to buy the Agama outdrives. Look back a couple pages where I posted a link. I think they're only $10 at amain. You only need them in the front. They are a little longer than the Kyosho outdrives. I haven't had a single universal pop out since I made this change over a year ago. They are a perfect fit.
You can also get these cars much cheaper than $900. I know you can get them for 500 euros (about $650 + shipping) from www.the-kyosho-store.com if you can wait about 10 days to get one. You need to create an account to get the discounted price. They are in France but several on this site, including me, have ordered from there. They are legit.
This is the best car I've ever driven. You won't be disappointed.
Hope this helps.
I'll look into those outdrives.
Any idea approximately how much shipping would be to the US (HoustonTX) is from the kyosho-store ?