TQ Racing SX8
#2371
Tech Regular
Hi All,
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
#2372
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Hi All,
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
#2373
Tech Regular
#2374
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Hi All,
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
#2375
#2376
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Hi All,
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Thats the only thing on the buggy I have had problems with. The CNC last longer but the Cast ones don't like it went you snag a pipe.
#2378
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Hi All,
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Some questions to ask:
Had original caster knuckles, stripped these, purchased new pair of CNC knuckles stripped these on the weekend, anyone else having issues, any tips would be greatly appreciated, going back to caster knuckles can’t afford $50 USD for a pair of knuckles and only lasting ¾ of days racing.
Thanks for all your help
Ive only broken 1 knuckle on a cast one, no problems with cnc ones.
#2379
Full-Proof Knuckle-Drag Prevention
1. I've learned to first clean new knuckle bolt-threads with brake cleaner, since they usually have a little oil on them. Remember how shiny black the hardware was in the kit? Then I apply red threadlock evenly on the first 4 threads. Yes red, but not too much.
2. When reusing bolts in rebuilds, I'll first screw them into a 4mm die to clean the threads of hardened red residue, before applying fresh threadlock. A hobby knife works well if you're without the die tool.
3. Tighten with a T-handled allen wrench, for max hand-torque.
4. Unfortunately the threaded inserts on the cast-aluminum/stock knuckles allows enough play in the kingpin area that the bolts can work loose, and gradually strip, even with redlock. Therefore I glue the threaded inserts to the knuckles with either medium or thick CA before assembly. No more wiggling insert.
Any mfr's cast knuckles can break in a crash. So because accidents do happen, I run the cnc types on my primary race buggy. Just allow the threadlock to set-up overnight. Then check the knuckle bolts after your first few tanks on race day. Now you'll never be caught dragging a knuckle in the main.
Hope that helps.
#2380
Roy Hit the spot I do the same
Roy Hit the spot I do the same
1. I've learned to first clean new knuckle bolt-threads with brake cleaner, since they usually have a little oil on them. Remember how shiny black the hardware was in the kit? Then I apply red threadlock evenly on the first 4 threads. Yes red, but not too much.
2. When reusing bolts in rebuilds, I'll first screw them into a 4mm die to clean the threads of hardened red residue, before applying fresh threadlock. A hobby knife works well if you're without the die tool.
3. Tighten with a T-handled allen wrench, for max hand-torque.
4. Unfortunately the threaded inserts on the cast-aluminum/stock knuckles allows enough play in the kingpin area that the bolts can work loose, and gradually strip, even with redlock. Therefore I glue the threaded inserts to the knuckles with either medium or thick CA before assembly. No more wiggling insert.
Any mfr's cast knuckles can break in a crash. So because accidents do happen, I run the cnc types on my primary race buggy. Just allow the threadlock to set-up overnight. Then check the knuckle bolts after your first few tanks on race day. Now you'll never be caught dragging a knuckle in the main.
Hope that helps.
1. I've learned to first clean new knuckle bolt-threads with brake cleaner, since they usually have a little oil on them. Remember how shiny black the hardware was in the kit? Then I apply red threadlock evenly on the first 4 threads. Yes red, but not too much.
2. When reusing bolts in rebuilds, I'll first screw them into a 4mm die to clean the threads of hardened red residue, before applying fresh threadlock. A hobby knife works well if you're without the die tool.
3. Tighten with a T-handled allen wrench, for max hand-torque.
4. Unfortunately the threaded inserts on the cast-aluminum/stock knuckles allows enough play in the kingpin area that the bolts can work loose, and gradually strip, even with redlock. Therefore I glue the threaded inserts to the knuckles with either medium or thick CA before assembly. No more wiggling insert.
Any mfr's cast knuckles can break in a crash. So because accidents do happen, I run the cnc types on my primary race buggy. Just allow the threadlock to set-up overnight. Then check the knuckle bolts after your first few tanks on race day. Now you'll never be caught dragging a knuckle in the main.
Hope that helps.
#2382
Anyone know if Luther is still Kicking around?
#2385
I am here
Whats up guys I am sorry but I am bouncing back and forth at the moment,allorders have shipped and tqnoob please give me a call.