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Old 12-19-2007, 05:52 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Jeremy Felles
xxxrcnitro- The main thing that strikes me about that setup is the relatively thick shock oil that you're running. In most cases you'll want to be around the 30-35wt range. Are you running on an extremely high bite track? (indoors for example) If thats the case then I can understand going to thicker oil but there's a chance you've gone a little too far. Its also extremely important to drill the holes in the shock pistons out to 1.4mm. This ensures that you aren't dealing with some plastic flashing in the holes which would give you far too much pack. After reviewing your setup and based on my experiences with the car I believe your best bet is to try the shock setup listed at the top of the page with the drilled pistons. I really believe that will improve your overall handling. I wish I could hit the track with you to see your car run and discuss this in person.

Please let me know how this works.

Jeremy
Jeremy,
Right now its about 30 degrees outside so I'm not doing any testing as of right now.I race at the St. Louis Dirt burners one of the rcpro series stops.This track when wet is a med/high bite and very technical slow motocross style.My setup is very hyper reactive. I have not drilled to 1.4 due to the wanted pack on landings to eliminate chassis slap, only when needed on the hair pin after landings.I rebuilt before I packed it up for the winter and did not see flashing in pistons. The problem I'm having is a nose heavy flight even though I have become quit comfortable with this driving style its to easy to make a mistake and dart it in the dirt. I'm more concerned with the over reving.So,what is your suggestion (with my current setup) of what I should change first?
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:06 AM
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Default diff housings

Originally Posted by xxxrcnitro
Jeremy,
Right now its about 30 degrees outside so I'm not doing any testing as of right now.I race at the St. Louis Dirt burners one of the rcpro series stops.This track when wet is a med/high bite and very technical slow motocross style.My setup is very hyper reactive. I have not drilled to 1.4 due to the wanted pack on landings to eliminate chassis slap, only when needed on the hair pin after landings.I rebuilt before I packed it up for the winter and did not see flashing in pistons. The problem I'm having is a nose heavy flight even though I have become quit comfortable with this driving style its to easy to make a mistake and dart it in the dirt. I'm more concerned with the over reving.So,what is your suggestion (with my current setup) of what I should change first?
I'm having problems with my pinion rubbing into my diff housing could this be due to worn out pinion bearings?
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:48 AM
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Default Kick up

I installed a 3* king headz kick up plate and adjusted my roll center higher and corrected the nose down tendancy. Changed the shock oil to 32.5wt up front.
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Old 04-12-2008, 03:06 PM
  #49  
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Sweet! I just picked up a used Hot bodies Lightning Buggy. I can't wait until I get it. That is what I'll be racing this summer.
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:45 PM
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Default Lightning buggy

Originally Posted by crazy4wdracer
Sweet! I just picked up a used Hot bodies Lightning Buggy. I can't wait until I get it. That is what I'll be racing this summer.
This is a great buggy!!! Tough as nails alittle on the heavy side but handles great and I never break anything.If you have any questions shoot! Mine runs like its on rails.The more I run it the better it gets.
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Old 04-13-2008, 06:59 AM
  #51  
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Yeah, that's why I decided to go with hot bodies because I love my hot bodies truggy and have tons of parts for them. If the buggy handles and drives as good as the truggy it is definitely a winner in my book. I'm really looking forward to running it, I should have it by this weekend.

What engine and clutch setup are you running in your buggy?
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:13 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by crazy4wdracer
Yeah, that's why I decided to go with hot bodies because I love my hot bodies truggy and have tons of parts for them. If the buggy handles and drives as good as the truggy it is definitely a winner in my book. I'm really looking forward to running it, I should have it by this weekend.

What engine and clutch setup are you running in your buggy?
I run a CEO modded werks b7 with a rc8 three pin hardend flywheel with dynamite platinum aluminum shoes with stock shoe springs.Most of the truggy parts are compatible except shock towers,Front brace,A arms,the chassis wich is a few mm longer.Shares the same diffs and many other parts I buy alot of my parts from the hopmeup ebay store.If you buy from them they have the wrong hpi clutch bells listed under the lightning buggy.They are for the savage and your center gear(spur) will eat them up.(The savage spur is plastic).Amain hobbies carries alot also!Not that you'll need parts often but I like to keep spare parts to sell and also just in case.
xxxrcnitro.
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Old 04-13-2008, 03:36 PM
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I really appreciate the help. I buy alot of my hot bodies parts from the ebay store rc nitro hobbies, it is like an rc chop shop. I will be running a CMB 5 port .21 engine. I will probably be running an ofna clutch setup.
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:14 PM
  #54  
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Also looking for setup tips on the buggy version. I'm running the rtr out of the box and having a difficult time turning tight corners.
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by not-a-lobster
Also looking for setup tips on the buggy version. I'm running the rtr out of the box and having a difficult time turning tight corners.
Check your servo saver adjusting nut, if it is not set properly the car's steering will suffer.
One way to check, turn everything on and set your car down. Turn the wheels lock to lock and make sure you are getting full steering throw with weight(car) on the wheels.

Another way, turn everything on, grab a front wheel and see if it turns easily. If so the servo saver may need adjusted.The servo saver should give/slip but it should take some decent force to do so.

Also when you can, upgrade the steering servo with a servo that has more torque, that will give a quicker and more precise feeling to the steering.

Here is one that will get the job done and will not brake the bank. I put 2 of these in my daughters buggy and they work very good.
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Hextronik-HX...QQcmdZViewItem


Dayton
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Old 04-16-2008, 12:58 AM
  #56  
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any pics about the hellfire mod
to the front suspension ???
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:03 PM
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Thanks for the tips, looks like i get to rebuild shocks and check servos, fun stuff. Any tips on replacement motors and clutching? Yes I am new to competetive racing. (Life was so simple as a basher)
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by not-a-lobster
Thanks for the tips, looks like i get to rebuild shocks and check servos, fun stuff. Any tips on replacement motors and clutching? Yes I am new to competetive racing. (Life was so simple as a basher)
Clutch,
Just depends on the feel you are lookinng for.
A good starting place is 3 aluminum shoes and 1.0 springs.
If you want more snap go to 1.1 springs, less snap got to .9 springs.

Motors,
That too depends on what kind of performance you are looking for and your budget, also your track size.

Dayton
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Old 04-17-2008, 04:04 AM
  #59  
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Hey Guys.
I have been running the evo and had great success with it
a couple things I am doing it 5,7,3 in the diffs
steering linkage in the rear hole on the knuckle for more low speed steering.
plastic rear knuckles for outside and stock alum. for indoor racing.
losi shocks modded to fit the car and give it total travel. 54 pistons with 45 front, and 56 pistons with 30 in the rear
short rear camber link, Go-tech 5 port and also a S7 for motor
I dont bash I race and the car I believe is capable if you have any questions or need a full set up let me know.
thanks
Mo
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:09 PM
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Hey thanks again, I'll have to apply what i've learned so far, too much at once and I won't realize what the changes are actually doing.
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