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Old 09-13-2007, 12:46 PM   #16
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Suck it up and buy a OS .28xz. Thats what I'm running in my CRT. Also try moving your shocks around on the mounts, thats what all those little holes are for. Fair Waring, if you get the OS .28xz, plain on investing in a lot of tires.
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Old 09-13-2007, 01:46 PM   #17
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Usually the motor isnt the problem. Even if you go buy the highest powered beast of an engine on the market, it doesnt mean you will get more punch on the bottom, at least speed-wise. You have to put the power to the ground, so I would try messing around with the setup for a week or two before you go spend money on an engine. Hope that helps!
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Old 09-13-2007, 02:25 PM   #18
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So true, but he had said that he's working with a dead motor. Nobody wants to race with out a little pinch.
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Old 09-13-2007, 02:32 PM   #19
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You running a Hyper? You should try Rob's long jump setup for Hyper 8/8.5. You can find it over at www.nitrohouse.com

You could also go down a tooth on your clutch bell, and change the springs to alter the engagement.

Losi's tend to fly just a little bit farther than the Hyper 8, FYI.

But, the Hyper jumps better than most everything else, so it's kind of a wash.

I have no problems with jumping my Hyper 8.25 (Jammin' BB shocks, FR2 Chassis, Center Bracing, and all the other 8.5 bits). I run a P5X/JP3 combo and a 13 tooth bell (Usually). The P5X has 8 or more gallons on her to boot!

Hyper's can jump, you just need to make sure that your suspension geometry allows for the most 'spring' off the jump face... And that you are putting the power down early as you run up to the jump.

How much of a run-up to the jump face do you have at that particular track?
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:12 PM   #20
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I think one thing that may be overlooked is the approach, I used to watch pros cut the pipe super tight and clear big jumps and i go why can't I do that, Most people think it is motor related.

The reason Is because they get on the power in the middle of the turn and stay on it, then they steer on power all the way thru the jump. Doing this requires a little tick of the wheel in the opposite direction in the air to square the car up in the air.

This gives you an extra 4-5 feet of acceleration and makes those difficult jumps a little easier.

This will take lots of practice to get right though.
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:32 PM   #21
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Also another thing is are you holding the throttle open while in the air? Resulting in the front end flying high and the rear wheels touching down first. If this is the case when you are in the air let off of the throttle and if need be "BARELY" touch the brake to pull the front end down just a bit, so that the front tires come down on the backside of the jump. If ths is the case, then try that and you might start clearing the jumps.

Also I am not putting this here to insult your intelligence or anythig of that nature, I just didn't know if you knew that or not. Let me know how it works out for ya.
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:53 PM   #22
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pat,pat,pat ,buddy, i'll tune your engine and make sure your clutch is good before racing on the 22nd bro . i don't have any problems with my k cars clearing the same jump! it's in the finger bro
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:45 PM   #23
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To make your car jump farther/higher what you need is more pack in your shocks, aka high speed dampening. This is so your car won't absorb so much of jump while on the jump face. It can also prevent bottom on the jump face, which will slow your car down, and therefor not fly as far. To get more pack you will need shock pistons with smaller holes. Probably for your buggy, something like a 1.3mm hole up front and a 1.4mm hole in the rear with mabye 40wt oil would be a good starting point for lots of pack. Your buggy probably has 1.5mm pistons front and rear now, but I don't have a Hyper 8 so I don't know, but I'm pretty sure the shocks are the same size as the old Xray shocks, so the dampening would be about the same. Changing the angle of your shocks will also change the pack, the more you lay the shocks down the less pack the car will have, the more vertical you make the shock the more pack it will have. Stiffer springs and more preload will of course also help, but I would probably mess with the dampening first.
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Old 09-14-2007, 12:32 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houston View Post
pat,pat,pat ,buddy, i'll tune your engine and make sure your clutch is good before racing on the 22nd bro . i don't have any problems with my k cars clearing the same jump! it's in the finger bro
Dude your awsome that is why you can do this section almost every lap.Thanks for offering your help but don`t f- up my radio this time The P5 seems to be pretty good but I think it is time to lean er out some.Both rides are sucking alot of fuel which to me means they are running richI've been lucky lately to get 7:25 out of both the Hot Mod P5/JP3 in the buggy and the Vspec/2060 in the Truggy.
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:22 AM   #25
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hi , i am happy making the jumps but each time making long/high jumps , my buggy chassis would hit the ground... can it be solved or is it normal
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Old 09-14-2007, 02:46 AM   #26
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it is always good to see other peoples chassis smack the ground hard as it shapes it weel for that take off angle to get maximum hieght. no it is normal but try a heavier oil to reduce it , not stop it as to much spring is bad for handling.just remember when you are high in the air you can not be on the ground on the power but we all love to get big air every now and then just for the fun of it
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Old 09-14-2007, 08:18 AM   #27
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MAKE THE CAR LIGHTER.
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Old 09-19-2007, 01:06 AM   #28
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Default I had same prob and ......

I had the same prob, I just didnt have enough umph to get over that last triple while
everyone else was clearing it. I have a fast .21, same clutch setup as everyone else and suspension setup, what the hell???? It was the Idle!!! turn your idle up a little bit. Im not taking way up but just a little more. whats happening is your coming around the corner and dont have that last foot or 3 to hit that good power band to get you across that last hump. bump the idle up a little and the motor will be a bit closer to its peak rpm/hp as you round the corner and gas on it!! also, with that higher idle (not a whole lot, experiment) will get the motor thru any small load up on the bottom end which may be cause by the round about and sudden excel. let me know how it works out. P.S. I forgot to mention to also try lightening the clutch shoes if they're aluminums. Because they are lighter it will cause the motor to rev. up a little more before engaging the clutch and again reaching the power band a little sooner. You can go to far and spin tires , making it difficult to control. Drill a small hole in each shoe. or increase spring weight, but that is a dramatic change. Your looking to make gradual increases.

Last edited by rc12ls; 10-31-2007 at 08:52 PM. Reason: adding text
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:26 AM   #29
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Had the same problem myself on my local track, so i put extra preload on my springs all round and used heavier oil in the shockers. 2*1.5 mm holes and 35 weight all round. Also put heavier oil in my centre diff to give more rear end traction and speed out of the corners.
I also put alloy clutch shoes instead of carbon and put a 13 tooth clutch bell instead of a 14 and it fixed my problem. If you have Blue springs ditch them and put whites in.
If your shocks are layed down straighten them up by moving the bottom of the shocks to the inner holes.
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