adz06

i am 99% sure im using black im due to change shok oils etc now anyway just havent got to the shop get any more so ill make sure and also get some lighter oils.

adz06

ok so heavier sway bars, change rear upright position , lower shock oil.

ok ill try all of that out what type sway bars you recomend in combo? currnet it 2.4mm and 2.9 and what difference does it make it adjusting the posisiton of them as i have always kept the connection right out to about 2 mm from the end of the sway bars.
thanks adam

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Moving the location of the swaybar links makes a little difference. Give it a try, it's not a dramatic difference so you won't mess up a run or anything.

Also, make sure you're at 2* anti squat (middle insert on rear-forward toe block). The good base setup for the X5r is pretty good everywhere if you're having a big problem then it's likely your tires.

Try Scott Hughes' Nats setup at www.mugenracing.com, the world's setup is good if you're on a really rough track, it's pretty soft.

adz06

ok well ive made note of all possibly changes to try out when at the track only thing i am changing while at home is shock oil and positions.

had a look in my spares box and i have 2.4 2.7 2.9 3.0 mm sway bars which should i put on if you are sayign heavier would be better should i use 2.7mm and 3.0 mm


currently using 2.4mm and 2.9 mm bare in mind track conditions are pretty rutted.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Stick with the swaybars you have on the car. If the track is rutted then you are likely not having "traction rolls" so much as rutt rolls, where the tires and even the sides of the rims are grabbing ruts. Go to the softer oil (try 30wt rear/32.5wt front) and try tires with a rounder profile (PL Bowties) or clipping the outside row on knobs off your tires. The goal is to get the car to be a little lsee grabby. I think the root of the problem is your stiff shock oils.

slidejob26

iTrader: (3)

David
I might be wrong (probably am!!) but I have found on a rough track with ruts and stuff, lightening the sway bars and in extreme situations removing one all together helps keep both sides of the car on the ground better. The suspension is able to travel indepedantly without lifting the opposite side. Maybe I miss understood the question posed about roll over, I though he was having trouble on a rutted track in the corners. You are totally right about cutting off the outside row of knobs on the tires, I forgot about that, good call! What do ya think, maybe I'm all screwed up

slow coach

im running 30rear 35 front and thats nice for the bumps, i had been told to try 1 hole drilled out to 1.6 then slightly heavier oil 35rear 40 front maybe

adz06

I used to use 30f 30r but then i thought i try somthing new think i will give 35 front 30 rear a go.

heres a question though how full do you guys fill your shocks usually i always would fill them and spend good while doign it making sur eno airbubbles and i would fill it very close to completely full.

slow coach

fill almost right up work piston up and down several times to allow trapped air out (parp ) top up to top of shock body then i sit in the top of three wheels stacked to allow air to escape, normally i will go inside and make a coffee watch some tv check out the Net then go back and build shocks, i start to screw cap on once its started i keep the oil hole on one side and angle shock slightly then push shaft in about a 1/3 and screw cap on fully, by laying shock over it helps keep it a bit cleaner, when i say screw cap on you actually screw body into cap and keep the oil hole static.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Lighter swaybars would be worth a try, that would allow the suspension to act more indepentently. I think it might allow for more body roll which could cause worse rolling in the ruts. I dunno'? They're certainly easy enough to change.

slow coach

+1 i also think to light on the roll bars will create a worse effect of rolling

Adam is it only you grip rolling on this corner or is everyone having the same problem it could be you may have to change line or slow down some corners are like that.

for info Adam i will add links for the Xray set up section of their manual plus the set up station manual these two manuals are very helpful and should help you out a bit as well

xray buggy set up manual http://rcdocuments.com/XRAY_XB8_Instruction_Manual.pdf

xray set up station manual http://rcdocuments.com/Hudy_Set-Up_System_Manual.pdf

also of use to you is a link to racechat in the uk which discussed grip roll may help also

http://www.rcracechat.com/vb/showthr...ight=grip+roll

hth

thewholeyearinn

can anyone explain the effect of running a wider and conversly a narrower front track width on the mbx5r. My gut says a wider front track width would be a slower/smoother steering response and a more stable car, better for high speed, wide open tracks and a narrower track width would produce more responsive steering, better for tighter more technical tracks?

little help?

slow coach

the 2 links above are very informative

adz06

Thanks for all the help and advice guys,
well it is a hard corner but i thought it was only me having trouble with it and i always had to slow way down and everyone was able to go faster round it and close the gap or even over take me then i lowered the car it helped but was raging when my car stalled in the final and i drop from first to last and was onyl able to get back up to 8th.

well i have printed out setup guides and have a load of notes made out form you guys and am going get some more shock oil when get a chance will buy a good few bottle of variety and printed out a load of setup sheets to try out different things and keep track of what changes improve and worsen the overall handling. Been talkign to guy at the track he said number one rule on it is max droop.

well thanks for help anyway guys and will be in touch after the next race day and let use no how i get on and what worked best for me etc.
thanks adam

thewholeyearinn

thanks for the help!