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Old 01-18-2009, 11:59 PM
  #1831  
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I run 3.5 degrees of toe out on the truggy and 2.5 degrees of anti squat.
i find the toe gives it much more straight line stability and it rockets out of the corners
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:48 AM
  #1832  
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I just got my 8T, when i took it out the box i gave it a roll, i heard clicking...so i took the diffs out and add oil in them ,check every groove on the gears add grease put them back in and the clicking still there...is that normal or what else should i check?
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Old 01-19-2009, 01:55 AM
  #1833  
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The rear gearbox mesh is usually a bit tight. It takes a little while to break in.
If it really bothers you then you can upgrade the rear gearbox housing to the 8B 2.0 item which is shimable so you can reset the mesh to your liking
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:24 AM
  #1834  
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Originally Posted by TIX
I run 3.5 degrees of toe out on the truggy and 2.5 degrees of anti squat.
i find the toe gives it much more straight line stability and it rockets out of the corners
I can see the advantage of the increased toe, and I am going to run it. TIX, thanks for confirming that it is a good idea.

But, I wanted to find out if the rear innner hinge plate (the one that is located in front of the rear diff) uses the removable cams, or if it simply holds the front of the hinge pin and all of the adjustment is made at the rear plate.

Thanks,
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:29 AM
  #1835  
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Originally Posted by TIX
I run 3.5 degrees of toe out on the truggy and 2.5 degrees of anti squat.
i find the toe gives it much more straight line stability and it rockets out of the corners
Oh, another question regarding the increased rear toe. I am looking to really lock down the rear of the car when our track dusts up and gets dry and slick.

Do you lose on-power steering exiting corners with the increased rear toe?

I run buggy and truggy - I am assuming the change has the same effect on both vehicles...

Thanks all!
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:04 AM
  #1836  
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Originally Posted by jkas10
I can see the advantage of the increased toe, and I am going to run it. TIX, thanks for confirming that it is a good idea.

But, I wanted to find out if the rear innner hinge plate (the one that is located in front of the rear diff) uses the removable cams, or if it simply holds the front of the hinge pin and all of the adjustment is made at the rear plate.

Thanks,
a 3x3 rear end is what i run All the time.....and the rear inside brace is just like the rear rear...uses the same plastic bushing's for adjustment....imo they work great....sure if you take a realllly bad hit at some point it will slop out the bushing...but id rater it take out a .50cent bushing then a 20$ plate.....3.5toe eh tix ? are you going by the revised setting sheet....or whats on the sheet stock ?
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:41 AM
  #1837  
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im thinking about buying a Losi 8ight T pro truggy, are these trugs still competitive even tho the 8T 2.0 is coming out very soon?
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:28 AM
  #1838  
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Originally Posted by TTR:EB4
im thinking about buying a Losi 8ight T pro truggy, are these trugs still competitive even tho the 8T 2.0 is coming out very soon?

YES.
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Old 01-24-2009, 12:50 PM
  #1839  
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Originally Posted by Integra
a 3x3 rear end is what i run All the time.....and the rear inside brace is just like the rear rear...uses the same plastic bushing's for adjustment....imo they work great....sure if you take a realllly bad hit at some point it will slop out the bushing...but id rater it take out a .50cent bushing then a 20$ plate.....3.5toe eh tix ? are you going by the revised setting sheet....or whats on the sheet stock ?
Im doing as i always do.
Im going by what my setup station says

i dont trust either of those sheets because things move over time.
all i know is that my buggy reads 3 degrees and my truggy reads 3.5 degrees with tha same inserts and new arms. so those sheets are good for a reference and nothing else. so pushing those sheets in everyones face can make you as wrong as you are right at times
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Old 01-24-2009, 02:34 PM
  #1840  
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Originally Posted by fordtastic
where do you measure ride height at? and do you do it with tires on or on a setup station? I know differant tires slighty differant in size
hi all just found this site!

Iwas looking for a setup station i have a 8ght t rtr and 2.5 and 3.3 revo
short and long chassie.

just got into this last summer and caught the bug bad.

started racing in july last yr.

anyhow. are the set up stations worth getting? and were can i get one?,
and will it work on all 3 trucks?

thanks
steve
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Old 01-24-2009, 02:55 PM
  #1841  
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Originally Posted by TIX
Im doing as i always do.
Im going by what my setup station says

i dont trust either of those sheets because things move over time.
all i know is that my buggy reads 3 degrees and my truggy reads 3.5 degrees with tha same inserts and new arms. so those sheets are good for a reference and nothing else. so pushing those sheets in everyones face can make you as wrong as you are right at times


i dont see how that's possible...the rear toe is directly related to the angle of the hingepin...if they are the same inserts and new arms......something's not adding up here....the revised sheet was based off the Outta the box stamped alum plates...as when you hold up the upgrade plates with corresponding #'s to acheive say 2 Anti and 3 Toe...they just Dont line up....so where's the .5 degree coming from ?
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:46 AM
  #1842  
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Originally Posted by Integra
i dont see how that's possible...the rear toe is directly related to the angle of the hingepin...if they are the same inserts and new arms......something's not adding up here....the revised sheet was based off the Outta the box stamped alum plates...as when you hold up the upgrade plates with corresponding #'s to acheive say 2 Anti and 3 Toe...they just Dont line up....so where's the .5 degree coming from ?
your a smart guy sometimes, so you tell me

there are a heap of places that it can come from. bad molding. different batches. bent pins. the list goes on

all i have to say is that the losi list and the revised list dont mean $hit.
you need to measure these things and not take the list for gosphel

i have found that the machining on wone of my plates it different that the other so i just setup to suit. ive had more inserts made that reflect the reading i desire so i can get the 3 up and 3.5 out i desire

as for why one of my plates are shorter that the other im guessing a change of manufacturer or a fluke of nature
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Old 01-25-2009, 07:10 AM
  #1843  
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Originally Posted by TIX

i have found that the machining on wone of my plates it different that the other so i just setup to suit. ive had more inserts made that reflect the reading i desire so i can get the 3 up and 3.5 out i desire

as for why one of my plates are shorter that the other im guessing a change of manufacturer or a fluke of nature



well that makes sence...if one is shorter...no matter what insert you use it will read w.e that insert is....what did you compare it to ? the stock stamped plates ?
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:59 PM
  #1844  
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well i today i finally had the chance to really run my 8ight truggy..it handles real goodand easy to drive as well just can't imagine how the 2.0 run, but compare to my X2 i don't have to drive too aggressive, i like the jammin but after spending time with 8T i think i like it better for this race season even tho i'm behind now that the 2.0 is outbut still it is very competive
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:04 PM
  #1845  
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Hey guys,
Getting ready to get some new bodies painted for this summer. What have you guys been finding to be good looking, functional AND durable bodies to handle the abuse of the occasional - or frequent - tumble? I am running the 1.0 version of the Truggy.

I have always like the JC Illuzion looks on other vehicles bodies: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/14785

Or the standard Losi Race Roller body - not RTR... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12288

Or, is there a Proline body out there that I am missing?

I hate it when bodies start to crack apart so I am looking for function AND durability.

Thanks guys!
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