TraxxaLosi

Good day,

Trying to to find out what switch will fit in the Losi 8ight t nitro 3.0? Also looking for one that will stand the test of time.

thanks

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

A switch for what, exactly?

TraxxaLosi

on/off switch for the receiver

frewster

iTrader: (1)

I've been using the SkyRC/Protek switch for years.

tfrankito

iTrader: (26)

No switch will stand the test of time. They will eventually fail and you hope it's when you were braking... with that said. I just started using battery plugs for my switch. That way it won't fail.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

I've only had one power switch fail, and it failed because of a bad solder joint.

UrabusDenis

I've always ran just micro Deans between the battery and the receiver- my local nitro gurus told me that a switch is just one more thing to fail, when I started years ago, and I agree with that. However, recently I've had two nasty crashes at full speed due to connection loss- I've traced it down to an old connector. Since then I've also started tracking down maintenance intervals with those connectors, replaced them and from then on I'm zip tieing them to the battery plate. Also, I've installed a old-fashioned switch on my practice car (still don't like the idea of racing with it) and I like the ease of use, since normally I have to remove the body, cut the zip tie and disconnect the battery. Which got me thinking, without a switch I'll have to disconnect the battery every time I finish a run, which means on a practice days it's lets say 5 times connect and disconnect compared to just one with a switch- no wonder they loose their contact strength, and theoretically they should last 5x longer. However I still don't like the idea of a switch, I've seen them go bad. I'm think of going the Ronnefalk route, with a robust jumper connection acting as a switch. What do you guys think of this solution? Ty Tesmann also has a similar solution, but with a Deans plug acting as a jumper.

How to make Ronnefalk?s trick switch -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News

Roelof

The best switch is indeed no switch. In the onroad most just use a Futaba style male/femaile plug direct from the battery.

If you realy want to use a switch then get an electronic one.

wreckingball

The Expert B3210 is hard to beat.

the rc guy

for the several switches I had to replace I used a micro spst switch weighs less than a gram.dont remember the name .

sebtarta

iTrader: (8)

just use the regular plugs and the use one of these to keep them secure

https://www.amainhobbies.com/servo-c...cm2770/p658433

token

I my personal space, I've seen more guys have issues with a direct connect more than a switch.... No switch will last. I change mine once a season. I currently use the Dynamite electronic switch. I change them yearly and always keep extra....

HaulinBass

iTrader: (16)

i use an xt60 plug as a negative disconnect basically this but home built
https://dialedhobbies.com/accessorie...ch-1300-detail

i use to use servo extensions and just plug them in but actually had some small issues with them starting to cut out as they got older.
if your going to do a disconnect style switch always do it to the negative lead

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

I stopped using switches years ago. I just recently started using the KO Pro Po switch. Yes it is convenient. Something about this switch , I know a lot of guys that swear by it. Thats the only reason I decided to give it a try. However I want the peace of mind of a direct connection. I will be going back to micro deans or another direct connect.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

Skyrc is the best investment. It's the exact electronic switch protek charges 40 bucks for and is $13 bucks. I have 3 of them. I kept frying battery's from a short circuit in the manual on off switch. Those things are so bad. I would never race with a switch other then an electronic switch, your two power connections don't connect at the exact same time your entire on off switch AND battery get smoked, it's happened atleast 20 times to me in the last 5 years till I switched. Literally switched to electronic, no worries if it doesn't connect perfectly it won't light your battery up like a torch and melt your car. Pisses me off thinking of all the times it happened right when I got to the track and that crap happened first time I turn the battery on. Even 5 minutes after a charge and the shit would light up burn my fingers unplugging it (ripping connection apart$ n also make me rip apart my battery box n see a fried battery. 40 minute fix right after I watered the track. Stupid crap. I get a little anal now and put shoe goo on the wires to toughen them up so no black and red wires touch.