baumel

There are a few setup sheets posted on Kyosho America under factory support. Everybody seems to be doing their own thing with the setup on this truggy. I run thicker diff fluids than those posted setups. I also don't understand the 27 - 28mm front ride height that some are running. That seems very low for a truggy.

brewkett

I know its weird but this truck runs like a large buggy. I find I like the lower diff fluid and low ride height. I'm running box setup and its quick.

Kyosho_2011

Do you want to sell the Evo?

rcmoe

iTrader: (21)

I have one for FS. Pm me...

Sammy7g

What is a good Diff oil setup for this truggy? One of my friends did really well at JBRL @ Empire with a Diff oil setup of 3/7/5.. I see there is a lot of variance posted on here with regards to Diff oil setup. Not sure what to try out.. Any input would be great..

I saw on Kyosho America Kanai had a 4/7/3....

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

I really like 8-10-4 10-10-4 or 10-12-5 depending on track conditions but 8-10-4 is where i stsrt the day off at any track

Sammy7g

Thank you J! This build seems to be giving me some difficulty. The front diff seems to be a little "crunchy" when rotating the front center drive shaft. I'm hoping that will smooth out after running/breaking in.

Also, as i rotate the front center drive shaft, at one point of the rotation, the front lower suspension arms slightly lift up. Not sure why. super weird...

Rear diff setup seems really smooth.

Also, the plastic front hub carrier set seems to bind against the aluminum knuckle arm when i rotate it. This most likely would overheat my steering servo. I'm thinking i should take apart and remove some plastic inside the hub carrier?

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

move the shim to the other side of the diff to make it free up in the front as it will chip the ring gear of you leave it too tight. i ran mine loose the first few tanks then moved the shim back to the manual side it says it should be on.
make sure the front camber is not super neg. after you get -4 degs the axle seems to bind and make sure the front knuckles are not tightened too much either as that can cause a bind. just a few things to look at

Sammy7g

Hi J! I got the problem with the stiffness of the steering knuckle fixed. I tried loosening the King pin screws and it was still really stiff. So i reversed the upper king pin sleeve and inserted the king pin sleeve so the flange is on the outside of the hub carrier set instead of the inside. The manual shows the king pin sleeves to be inserted so the flanges are on the inside of the hub carrier,


as shown in the pic of the manual. I left the bottom king pin sleeve the same as shown in the manual. There seems to be no room for the flanges to be both inserted in the inside of the carrier. Now it moves freely and without any problems.

I also was able to fix that weird thing with the suspension arm lifting by doing what you said by adjusting the camber. Also, it was doing that when i had no shocks mounted and the droop screws not even touching the chassis. The drive shaft pins were binding with the out drives... All good.

Now i still half to figure out the problem of that front diff shim issue. The manual shows the shim to be on the opposite side of the ring gear, ( which makes sense, because if it was on the ring gear side it bind even more ), and i tried putting the shim on the ring gear side and seemed worse. Right now with it on the opposite side of the ring gear it has some decent free spin but kinda rough. The rear has silky smooth free spin and i was hoping that i could get the front to spin the same way. You think i should still run the shim on the ring gear side or should i just add one more shim and run for a gallon and then remove?

J.Whiting

iTrader: (63)

i would not recommend that for the bushing. just sand the knuckle down a tick or not tighten the screw so tight..
as for the ring gear mesh just run it as the manual states and after a few tanks see if it gets smoother. most likely just a few high spots on the ring gear. also make sure the ring gear screws are all about the same tightness as this may cause it to be a tick wave or uneven.

Sammy7g

I thought of sanding/removing but i was worried that maybe it might weaken/break during a race. Maybe i will try that next if this doesn't work. I am going to remove the diff and check...

Itsmikeyhoncho

Have put about 2 hours of run time on the truggy so far. Box setup and couldnt be happier. Drives like a buggy for me, fast agile and really responsive.

only complaint is how paper thin the stock body is. Any word on a thicker option?

rythby

I am looking into converting to electric for the winter. Ordered the m2c motor mount, mp9e tki4 battery tray and radio box. Am I going to have to drill out the chassis or does it bolt right in? Any pics?

rythby

I am on my second body already. Shoe goo helps but not much. Its a shame because I love the design but it is garbage. i heard the jconcepts one for the associated fits but its just like any other truggy body....ugly as hell

Expose193

iTrader: (5)

They do fit, but from my understanding you have to use the mugen body post. I'm not 100%.