rustlererad3

iTrader: (1)

yeah i still think its odd that you had isues with your hitec maybe you just got a dud idk thoguh :/

jestrc

Ditto to all this . Exact same issue with stock traxxas servo. The replacement hitec 82mg and a Hitec 65mg havent worked from the second i put them in. Too glitchy to even attepmt to drive and VERY HOT! Tried them with 2 different Spektrum dx3r/sr3100's and the TQi traxxas tx/rx. Traxxas shows little improvement but still not driveable. All radio gear works perfectly with a spare jr servo. Dont think ill give Hitec a third chance and need another option.

Rockthecatbox21

iTrader: (19)

Well, i did give hitec a second chance with their 85mg. This time i didn't even get to drive it! Servo was getting hot and twitching exactly like you described above. Sorry hitec, you just lost my business (at least for micro servos). The 85mg i bought was brand new outta the box. I'm beginning to think something else in the system is causing these servo failures electronically. My first assumption would be to blame the vxl3m esc, it's the only variable that hasn't changed. I know it's not my futaba reciever's as they ran great in some of my other vehicles. Something isn't right for all these servos to be going bad. Right now i'm currently using a common sense rc 85mg in my rally. It worked great last weekend, but with my luck that one will go bad too.

M-chassisMark

iTrader: (17)

I believe the VXL3m is to blame, and more specifically the BEC built into it. Get a Castle 10a external BEC from your local hs and see if your luck doesn't improve. I had a 82MG in one of my Rallys for a long time before upgrading to a digital 5085MG. From the get-go I had to put the BEC on it to get reliable steering.

jestrc

Thanks for the info fellas. So does this mean that if i add the bec the hitec servos i have now should work or has the damage been done already by the traxxs esc?

danb1974

Use only digital servos. Analogue servos do not get along well with some 2.4ghz radios, for example the traxxas tq. The servo cannot cope with the higher frame rate of the 2.4ghz tx.

Daholla72

So would the Datsun 510 fit

danb1974

A word of caution.

For the second time the stock servo shorted out (electronics toast), taking out the esc (stock brushed one, xl-2.5). Problem is the bec inside this esc has no protection against short circuits (it's not the usual 7805 regulator, it's done with a simple npn transistor).

A new servo and esc would cost more than half of a new car, so... the esc I'll try to fix (non-trivial task, requires hot air soldering station and advanced soldering skills), the servo will remain for spare gears/motor/case (electronic board took heavy damage from a literally burned mosfet, not sure if it can be revived)

So... better get a decent servo that does not burn and has metal gears (plastic ones strip like crazy). Not sure if there is any drop-in replacement that is also waterproof.

BJP

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't say anything about being waterproof but it has good reviews...http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11627

BJP

iTrader: (1)

You really put 5k diff oil in your shocks?! Are you sure you didn't mean 50 weight shock oil?
I'm new to the Rally and I was just looking for some onroad tuning tips...I was just trying to make sure I was reading your post correctly

Darnall

iTrader: (8)

Yes or 10k, 15K & even 20K.


So if your goal is an on-Road Racer I'd suggest the following upgrades and base line set up. (Keep in mind the order of preference and effectiveness)

1. Wing I prefer the Losi TLR 22 wing just put 2 holes in it and put it on the rear body posts or directly on the body (Camaro, Mustang, etc.)

2. Adjustable Doop links as Matt said. Integey makes them or you can make your own. To replace the solid plastic 45 degree suspension links. This will help tremendously with traction rolling make the overall length 50mm

3. Change the springs to something very stiff. I think the 2 stiffest springs Traxxas makes are #7342 Black GTR front #7341 Tan Rear

4. Change the Shock oil as Matt recommends

5. Tires..... Muchmore rubbers or if you run on a smooth asphalt track I like foams 37 shore rear and 42 shore front for the summer seam to work great

6. Heat sink or cooling fan to keep the motor temps down. The fan does seem to work better than just the heatsink

7. If and when you ever run into a super Hi-Traction Track and you pop an out drive-out (which is usually caused from diff unloading one wheel then when the wheel loads... all that force has to go somewhere... and the out-drive yoke is what says uncle) , I'd suggest getting a set of CVD's or if you want a more inexpensive fix but a piece of 3/8" brass tube and cut 4) 1/4" pieces off and slide it on past the "screw in set pin) on the diff side. Works great too. Center diff will often solve this problem too. This is just less expensive & fixes 90% of the problem.

8. Adjustable toe links for the front and back of car (just a tuning aid) you can cheat the system with the pillow balls but the links make it much easier

If you want to go beyond that on upgrades my secondary list would be:

- Traxxas Center diff with 100K - 500K diff oil. Improves drivability & reliability. (If you have ever popped a driveshaft this will cure it)

-Hitec HS-82 Hi-Speed Servo

-RPM Hub Carriers. They allow you to remove slop from the pillow balls so down the road you might want to invest in these.

-Ball Berings for the Steering bellcranks 5X8X2.5 I beleive

Baseline on road set up.
Front-

-black gtr springs
-10k diff oil in the shocks
-Ofna Diff Lock Lube in the front diff
1 degree toe out
3-4mm ride height
about 1-3mm of droop
1 degrees - camber


Rear-

-Tan GTR springs
-10k diff oil in the shocks
-50k-100K diff fluid in the diff (higher oil for hi-traction tracks)
- 2 degrees of toe in
-3-4mm of ride height
-about 2-3mm of droop
-1 degree of - camber

Other tuning-


-Stock 28T pinion/spur with 3s on Large Fast tracks
-21T Pinion 3S on smaller tracks
-Run a 2nd battery for weight on Hi-Traction Tracks to prevent traction rolling
-Dial your steering dual rate down to between 60%-90% for most tracks (If using the Traxxas radio set your multi knob for steering dual rate)


Below is some video of the cars running with most of these changes and they are easy to drive, tough as nails, & FAST!

Good luck and have fun these little guys are a blast! ! ! !

http://youtu.be/WBAaXaLtiQU

bosshog64

iTrader: (5)

So what kind of driving/racing can you do with these? Are people still racing them or are they more for bashing these days?

Darnall

iTrader: (8)

I think like all of the RC cars the answer is Both.

If you have a place to race them and at least 4 or 5 guys than there is usually race.

I know in Houston there are several tracks that race them or would be happy too if enough guys showed up with them to make a class.

• Mikes Hobby shop "Gulf Coast Raceway"
• M&M Hobby Center
• Reflex Racing "RSD Race Track"
• RC Hobbies "Copperfield Temp Track"
• RC Hobbies "Spring Temp Track"

Here is a video I shot of them racing at Mikes "Gulf Coast Raceway"

+ YouTube Video

Here is the one of the fist video we did of the little 1/16th on the track as we were figuring the set ups out. It is a little long and gets a bit boring but you get the idea

+ YouTube Video

So depends if you want to race them & have a place & 3 or 4 other guys to race with. If not just bash them and have a ball.

As far as racing goes these little guys really shine on an unprepared track. Which is a plus because your Serpents and pan cars are all over the place the little rallies are planted.

I still think that as far as racing goes these little guys are the best bang for your buck in RC racing you can find. Fast - tough - cheap - tires last forever -etc.

Also did a cheap quick conversion on the 1/10th Rally and it is huge basiclly a 1/8th GT car in fact threw a Protoform GT-8 body on it changed the tires and got a super stable easy to drive on road racer.
Check it out:

+ YouTube Video

Schs2013

Hi there,
I am looking for set-up info for carpet racing?
I bought some shock travel limiters to reduce the droop. The rest is about bone stock execpt center diff. What else can i do? To make the 1/16 more stable in turns and less body rolling?

Darnall

iTrader: (8)

The Turnbuckles will be the biggest bang for you buck.

Then from there stiffen it up (stiffer springs, Thicker shock oil)

Keep it low and run two batteries to help lower the CG.

Also if you are getting up over 15MPH Put a big wing on the back. The TLR22 is a great easy fit.

Hope that helps