Tamiya M-07 Concept
#286
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
From reading this thread I knew I wanted the red/soft sway bars on the rear so I installed those last night. I am having interference between the sway bar links and the chassis where the body posts meet. The suspension bottoms out on the sway bar links and then they get pushed outside of the chassis. The pictures show this does it on both sides about equally. What am I doing wrong?
Still undecided if I want the hard or soft sway bar on the front.
Still undecided if I want the hard or soft sway bar on the front.
that the 1080?
#287
#289
I love Tekin. I've never tried any of their FX series ESCs, but I've had them in my cart at Tower Hobbies many times. All of my go-fast stuff is brushless. If I stick with brushed maybe I'll give the FX-R a shot.
#290
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
since all my cars are 'racers' (except maybe for my rally) they're all brushless - well,except for my M03 that was kept brushed because one track i went to didn't like BL cars, so i kept it like that (tamiya silver can and tekin Fx)
#291
Tech Rookie
Ran my M07 for the first time last night. Absolutely incredible, right up until the glue wore off on the front sidewalls (I'm running pit shimizus on carpet).
Once that happened it developed some quite vicious oversteer, which could initially be driven around by keeping the throttle pinned, but eventually rendered it almost undriveable. I was tired after a long day in work & tried various things before realising what the problem was on my drive home.
There were 6 runners in my class last night, 3 x 07s and 3 x 05s. The performance gulf between the cars was huge and a little unfair IMO. A well set up M07 is a missile....
Once that happened it developed some quite vicious oversteer, which could initially be driven around by keeping the throttle pinned, but eventually rendered it almost undriveable. I was tired after a long day in work & tried various things before realising what the problem was on my drive home.
There were 6 runners in my class last night, 3 x 07s and 3 x 05s. The performance gulf between the cars was huge and a little unfair IMO. A well set up M07 is a missile....
#292
From reading this thread I knew I wanted the red/soft sway bars on the rear so I installed those last night. I am having interference between the sway bar links and the chassis where the body posts meet. The suspension bottoms out on the sway bar links and then they get pushed outside of the chassis. The pictures show this does it on both sides about equally. What am I doing wrong?
Still undecided if I want the hard or soft sway bar on the front.
Still undecided if I want the hard or soft sway bar on the front.
Shouldn't be an issue in actual driving.
#293
When installing them I just made sure the vertical links were as straight up and down as possible both side to side and front to back. I'm not sure if that matters handling wise.
I installed the red/soft sway both front and rear. It definitely changed the handling, but I'm not sure if it's for the better. Still learning.
#294
Thank you for the response! I was hoping that was the case. I just wanted to ensure I didn't do anything wrong as I'm not an on-road guy and that's the first time I've installed sway bars on an on-road car.
When installing them I just made sure the vertical links were as straight up and down as possible both side to side and front to back. I'm not sure if that matters handling wise.
I installed the red/soft sway both front and rear. It definitely changed the handling, but I'm not sure if it's for the better. Still learning.
When installing them I just made sure the vertical links were as straight up and down as possible both side to side and front to back. I'm not sure if that matters handling wise.
I installed the red/soft sway both front and rear. It definitely changed the handling, but I'm not sure if it's for the better. Still learning.
When assembling the sway bars for the front, I noticed binding in the ball cups attached to the lower suspension arms.
I find these (moulded ball ends on suspension arms) to be a common issue, the ball cups used in this type of attachment are different from the regular 5mm adjusters (as used in the rear sway bars), they're a bit smaller in size and has a thru-hole in the cup.
What I did was using a body hole reamer, start enlarging the ball cup hole from the external side slightly and test fitting on the suspension arm until its smooth enough to move around on its own weight.
Your suspension arms should fall on its own weight with the sway bars installed, it's best to test this with just the arms and sway bar attached to the chassis.
#295
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
My set-up from the Jackson TCS Race. Medium grip asphalt about 80 degrees.
Front: Yellow springs / 40wt / 3-hole piston / 5mm ride height / red sway / -1 camber / -1 toe out / premounted spec tire sgrip - lite glue side wall
Rear: Blue springs / 40wt / 3-hole piston / 5mm ride height / red sway / -1 camber / no shims on toe in block / sgrip premounted
reedy 21.5 spec motor / 20t pinion / 1330gram
Qualified 4th and finished 4th... overall a good race but lacked top end speed compared to others. Car was too easy to drive, needed to make it looser. Used a ball diff set tight but still had diff action. I will try a gear diff next time out.
Front: Yellow springs / 40wt / 3-hole piston / 5mm ride height / red sway / -1 camber / -1 toe out / premounted spec tire sgrip - lite glue side wall
Rear: Blue springs / 40wt / 3-hole piston / 5mm ride height / red sway / -1 camber / no shims on toe in block / sgrip premounted
reedy 21.5 spec motor / 20t pinion / 1330gram
Qualified 4th and finished 4th... overall a good race but lacked top end speed compared to others. Car was too easy to drive, needed to make it looser. Used a ball diff set tight but still had diff action. I will try a gear diff next time out.
#297
#299
Whats the purpose of these spacers? I tried to figure but couldn't make out from the pics or the manual online. Aren't you still limited to the spacing between the body clip holes?
#300
Another thing I noticed that the threading would allow more precise body heights that would normally fall in between body clip holes.
I found this which explains how they mount.