k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

nice Hobbywing stuck in there

that the 1080?

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Yes, sir! I absolutely love that ESC. I preordered it when it was announced and I've been switching all of my crawlers to it. This is my first time using it in a go-fast rig. So far it's been great.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

i'm going to replace the other hobbywing in my scx10 with it

if i was going brushed in a 'go-fast', I got a Tekin FX for that

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

I love Tekin. I've never tried any of their FX series ESCs, but I've had them in my cart at Tower Hobbies many times. All of my go-fast stuff is brushless. If I stick with brushed maybe I'll give the FX-R a shot.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

for a crawler, the FxR is awesome - well, i could saw WAS awesome since that was before the 1080 came out and the tekin was the only one in town that actually was fully adjustable (via the Hotwire). i had one of time (drove for tekin for a couple of years), but dumped it when i got my first HW

since all my cars are 'racers' (except maybe for my rally) they're all brushless - well,except for my M03 that was kept brushed because one track i went to didn't like BL cars, so i kept it like that (tamiya silver can and tekin Fx)

cjm_2008

Ran my M07 for the first time last night. Absolutely incredible, right up until the glue wore off on the front sidewalls (I'm running pit shimizus on carpet).

Once that happened it developed some quite vicious oversteer, which could initially be driven around by keeping the throttle pinned, but eventually rendered it almost undriveable. I was tired after a long day in work & tried various things before realising what the problem was on my drive home.

There were 6 runners in my class last night, 3 x 07s and 3 x 05s. The performance gulf between the cars was huge and a little unfair IMO. A well set up M07 is a missile....

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

For the sway bar links to come into contact with the chassis like you show, the dampers would have already bottomed out, as you can see in the pictures.

Shouldn't be an issue in actual driving.

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for the response! I was hoping that was the case. I just wanted to ensure I didn't do anything wrong as I'm not an on-road guy and that's the first time I've installed sway bars on an on-road car.

When installing them I just made sure the vertical links were as straight up and down as possible both side to side and front to back. I'm not sure if that matters handling wise.

I installed the red/soft sway both front and rear. It definitely changed the handling, but I'm not sure if it's for the better. Still learning.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

No problem!

When assembling the sway bars for the front, I noticed binding in the ball cups attached to the lower suspension arms.

I find these (moulded ball ends on suspension arms) to be a common issue, the ball cups used in this type of attachment are different from the regular 5mm adjusters (as used in the rear sway bars), they're a bit smaller in size and has a thru-hole in the cup.

What I did was using a body hole reamer, start enlarging the ball cup hole from the external side slightly and test fitting on the suspension arm until its smooth enough to move around on its own weight.

Your suspension arms should fall on its own weight with the sway bars installed, it's best to test this with just the arms and sway bar attached to the chassis.

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

My set-up from the Jackson TCS Race. Medium grip asphalt about 80 degrees.

Front: Yellow springs / 40wt / 3-hole piston / 5mm ride height / red sway / -1 camber / -1 toe out / premounted spec tire sgrip - lite glue side wall

Rear: Blue springs / 40wt / 3-hole piston / 5mm ride height / red sway / -1 camber / no shims on toe in block / sgrip premounted

reedy 21.5 spec motor / 20t pinion / 1330gram

Qualified 4th and finished 4th... overall a good race but lacked top end speed compared to others. Car was too easy to drive, needed to make it looser. Used a ball diff set tight but still had diff action. I will try a gear diff next time out.

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

photos

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Where did you get the anodized blue spacers that you have on your body mounts?

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

Don't recall the part number but they are Tamiya brand. Purchased them from Browns Hobby Shop in Staten Island. Call John Brown he has them in stock. I believe they are for touring cars but fit all Tamiya body posts. They are bling!!!

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

They're Tamiya Part# 42245.

Whats the purpose of these spacers? I tried to figure but couldn't make out from the pics or the manual online. Aren't you still limited to the spacing between the body clip holes?

JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Thank you! I like bling. That's why they caught my eye!

Besides looking awesome, I don't think they serve much of an actual purpose. They would, in theory, save your body from a little wear since riding on body clips is harder on a body than riding on a larger platform, but they are probably just bling.

Another thing I noticed that the threading would allow more precise body heights that would normally fall in between body clip holes.

I found this which explains how they mount.