Xray T4'17
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#1216
What are the advantages of a zero rebound shock ? I race on asphalt, would it help ? Thanks
#1217
I don't know. I do know that I like the consistency of this setup because it doesn't change over time and I don't re-do my shocks every race day. I've tried setting the rebound in the past but found that over time they went down to zero rebound. So I set them up at zero and don't worry about it.
#1218
I don't know. I do know that I like the consistency of this setup because it doesn't change over time and I don't re-do my shocks every race day. I've tried setting the rebound in the past but found that over time they went down to zero rebound. So I set them up at zero and don't worry about it.
BTW, we race at the same place
#1219
I think rebound gives the sensation of more traction, but I've never run more than @ 25%. I don't think rebound is ideal for a bumpy track, though I could be wrong. Dead or 0% makes less grip in my opinion so it is good for carpet or high bite conditions. I typically also run 0% because it's easier to build consistently and I'm lazy and don't feel like rebuilding often.
#1220
I think rebound gives the sensation of more traction, but I've never run more than @ 25%. I don't think rebound is ideal for a bumpy track, though I could be wrong. Dead or 0% makes less grip in my opinion so it is good for carpet or high bite conditions. I typically also run 0% because it's easier to build consistently and I'm lazy and don't feel like rebuilding often.
#1221
#1222
Help the handling? Maybe if you're good enough to tell the difference between small changes but I can't tell much/any difference. I think Robbie's description is pretty accurate but the effect is pretty marginal when I've tried it. I'm not saying it's not worth looking into because everybody has a little different feel they like from the car but for me I prefer the consistency of zero rebound that allows me to play with other things.
#1223
#1225
Tech Master
#1226
I am currently trying to get more rotation out of my setup. The car is planted on the track but I really want it to rotate a little bit better than it does right now.
Since I cannot do test runs until the weekend and then only for 30 minutes prior to the start of the race, but have time to work on the car during the week one of my "ideas" was to change the rear toe in from 3 to 2.5 degrees.
Currently I am using the base asphalt setup with the only difference being 2.5 - 2.8 springs in the front and 2.6 ones in the rear.
Since I cannot do test runs until the weekend and then only for 30 minutes prior to the start of the race, but have time to work on the car during the week one of my "ideas" was to change the rear toe in from 3 to 2.5 degrees.
Currently I am using the base asphalt setup with the only difference being 2.5 - 2.8 springs in the front and 2.6 ones in the rear.
#1227
I am currently trying to get more rotation out of my setup. The car is planted on the track but I really want it to rotate a little bit better than it does right now.
Since I cannot do test runs until the weekend and then only for 30 minutes prior to the start of the race, but have time to work on the car during the week one of my "ideas" was to change the rear toe in from 3 to 2.5 degrees.
Currently I am using the base asphalt setup with the on
ly difference being 2.5 - 2.8 springs in the front and 2.6 ones in the rear.
Since I cannot do test runs until the weekend and then only for 30 minutes prior to the start of the race, but have time to work on the car during the week one of my "ideas" was to change the rear toe in from 3 to 2.5 degrees.
Currently I am using the base asphalt setup with the on
ly difference being 2.5 - 2.8 springs in the front and 2.6 ones in the rear.
#1228
I am currently trying to get more rotation out of my setup. The car is planted on the track but I really want it to rotate a little bit better than it does right now.
Since I cannot do test runs until the weekend and then only for 30 minutes prior to the start of the race, but have time to work on the car during the week one of my "ideas" was to change the rear toe in from 3 to 2.5 degrees.
Currently I am using the base asphalt setup with the only difference being 2.5 - 2.8 springs in the front and 2.6 ones in the rear.
Since I cannot do test runs until the weekend and then only for 30 minutes prior to the start of the race, but have time to work on the car during the week one of my "ideas" was to change the rear toe in from 3 to 2.5 degrees.
Currently I am using the base asphalt setup with the only difference being 2.5 - 2.8 springs in the front and 2.6 ones in the rear.
1) go back to 2.5 rear spring, softer will generate less side bite
2) try short rear link, this typically rotates more for everyone running Xray at my local track
3) raise the inside of the rear link from 1mm to 2mm.
4) add anti-squat by raising the RF (split) blocks from center to 1 up.
5) much smaller change, remove the 3mm shim at the top of the rear shock. This makes the shock less progressive and lets the car rotate more.
My local track has pretty good bite and those are some things that we do to help our cars rotate when they get too stuck.
#1229
I would suggest the following for more rotation:
1) go back to 2.5 rear spring, softer will generate less side bite
2) try short rear link, this typically rotates more for everyone running Xray at my local track
3) raise the inside of the rear link from 1mm to 2mm.
4) add anti-squat by raising the RF (split) blocks from center to 1 up.
5) much smaller change, remove the 3mm shim at the top of the rear shock. This makes the shock less progressive and lets the car rotate more.
My local track has pretty good bite and those are some things that we do to help our cars rotate when they get too stuck.
1) go back to 2.5 rear spring, softer will generate less side bite
2) try short rear link, this typically rotates more for everyone running Xray at my local track
3) raise the inside of the rear link from 1mm to 2mm.
4) add anti-squat by raising the RF (split) blocks from center to 1 up.
5) much smaller change, remove the 3mm shim at the top of the rear shock. This makes the shock less progressive and lets the car rotate more.
My local track has pretty good bite and those are some things that we do to help our cars rotate when they get too stuck.
Regarding 3.) this lowers the rear rollcenter which in my experience gives me more rear traction and more understeer. Initially I started (ended up) at 2 inner 3 outer mm on my track since traction was very low and I did not have any grip at all.
Since the traction increased in the meantime I reverted this back to 1 inner and 4 outer which freed the car up and gave me more response.
I am a little bit confused right now.
What about changing the diff postion from bottom to top for both diffs?
#1230
thanks for the feedback.
Regarding 3.) this lowers the rear rollcenter which in my experience gives me more rear traction and more understeer. Initially I started (ended up) at 2 inner 3 outer mm on my track since traction was very low and I did not have any grip at all.
Since the traction increased in the meantime I reverted this back to 1 inner and 4 outer which freed the car up and gave me more response.
I am a little bit confused right now.
What about changing the diff postion from bottom to top for both diffs?
Regarding 3.) this lowers the rear rollcenter which in my experience gives me more rear traction and more understeer. Initially I started (ended up) at 2 inner 3 outer mm on my track since traction was very low and I did not have any grip at all.
Since the traction increased in the meantime I reverted this back to 1 inner and 4 outer which freed the car up and gave me more response.
I am a little bit confused right now.
What about changing the diff postion from bottom to top for both diffs?
I've not tested diffs up vs. down yet. I also started with the Base Asphalt setup and have been running very close to that the past month with pretty good success so far. I planned to test a few different roll center settings this weekend along with diff heights.