WC

iTrader: (28)

they sound like the Square parts, also available in Surikarn red.

fat500

iTrader: (51)

PM me, I need one. Thanks.

Windtalkers

Stumper & Evo,

I think those thicker bevel gears could be produced by Xenon Racing, another hobby company from Japan, making these for tamiya as i got these gears from xenon themselves.

TRF drivers were driving their cars with much thicker gears, guys, these gears are real thick.

de xenon gears combined with the de new tamiya lite weight shaft work perfectly for my car.... u just need to add couple of shims on both end of the gear boxes....

i shimed mine as follows:-

front gear box
2pc x 3mm x 10mm on the "left" (pushing the one way out)

rear gear box
2pc x 3mm x 10mm on the "right" (pushing the diff in)

Note: directions "left / right": facing the gear box

Then you do the following test:

1) Hold down the gear and the left rear tyre
2) Push forward the rear right tyre

if your push moved the tyre with a "click" sound, then add another shim..... otherwise, you can't push the tyre at all, then everything's set..... let me know if how it works for u guys.....

godspeed.

DJB

iTrader: (17)

where would you buy those sort of shim sets?? also help needed. any tips for an understeering car??

devil

can anyone tell me if there is a way to stop the wear in the cross joints of the dogbones and axles, or do you throw them away and buy new ones when there worn

WC

iTrader: (28)

Buy them from Tamiya, 10mm internal diameter.

Comes in a bag of 10pcs 0.1mm, 10x 0.2mm & 10x 0.3mm.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

im not sure, but i have seen a lot of people run the cvds dry, with no lube at all. seems like they wear a lot that way, and i have run lubed cvds for a veeery long time without showing slop.

to answer your question, tho- prolly just hafta replace them when worn...

WC

iTrader: (28)

When your grease picks up dirt it becomes a grinding plate.
Parts will wear out with use, can't avoid.

(At least you get 2 chances on the axles!!)

I've been using Tamiya TITANIUM grease in the unis, seems to
slow down the wear quite well - better than AW or Molybdenum.
My unis aren't visibly wearing out since I've done them. Every
rebuild I just flush them and regrease. Less drag than AW too.

The Black Kat

My one-way gear is stripped....

Not REALLY bad (just enough to make a click in that spot everytime I roll the car)

If I just put some diff lube on the gear will it be okay for racing (will I notice a performance loss with a stripped gear?)

Yes or No would be fine...No resources with to replace the gear/shaft at the moment

Thanks -Dan

racenut123

iTrader: (32)

put the ball diff back in.it will continue to strip.

peachpie

hey i have a tb02 and was wondering if the EVO3 Blue Parts Conversion Kit is worth it for 150 dollars?

DJB

iTrader: (17)

hey the black kat try shimming the gearbox. mite help alittle

KiwiKid

It depends, because you will find that some of the parts are not directly compatible with the TB-02, namely the steering arms, the motor mount and the spur gear holder (although the later may be useable - I've not tried). If you also have an EVO III, then it might be worth it because then you can use the EVO specific parts as well.

The Black Kat

Awww...I was beggining to like the one-way (shut-up...LOL)

The thrust bearing on the original Surikarn diff is fizzucked & I put my "ghetto" front diff in the rear.

If I drill out the center hole bigger & the two screw holes on a regular diff gear will that work? I just thought of that a few minutes ago

Maybe I'll screw around with a spool on Saturday if I don't get anything flying

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Not to sound like a meanie, but if you're running any car with bent hinge pins, a totally stripped front one-way gear, roached diff, a dud of a motor, and heaven knows what else, you won't be flying...No advice we give will help that.

If the front gear only has a few rough spots, you can clean them up with an exacto blade. It's not ideal, but it'll get you through a race day.