Tamiya TB-Evolution III
03-23-2003, 01:04 PM
#1486
Blank setup sheet
03-23-2003, 01:06 PM
#1487
thanks
03-24-2003, 02:40 AM
#1488
Tech Initiate
Surikarns Red version of TB3
03-24-2003, 03:56 AM
#1489
Hmm, I don't see a red car. 
03-24-2003, 04:34 AM
#1490
Tech Initiate
It just look like Surikarn's TB in the first message of Page49 from this thread 
03-24-2003, 06:09 AM
#1492
Tech Rookie
Hy Guys, can anyone of you post your sets-ups which you run in the EVO3 ?
And one question on the people, who drove an 414 before, whats better on the evo3 ? Is he easier to drive, or which facts, are better ? are you going faster with the EVO3, than before with an 414 ?
Thank´s !
And one question on the people, who drove an 414 before, whats better on the evo3 ? Is he easier to drive, or which facts, are better ? are you going faster with the EVO3, than before with an 414 ?
Thank´s !
03-24-2003, 07:01 AM
#1493
My foam set-up
OK guys,
I wish someone had tried this set-up besides me so I dont make an @#* out of myself if it sucks!!! But , I can tell you this set-p started out as pretty close to the kit settings, except for reduced rear toe in and Associted oil and springs. And it was changed one parameter at a time as I disliked something it was doing or thought it could do something else better.
Ray's Stock motor, Foam tire, Ozite carpet set-up
Front
60 wt AE oil w/ 3 hole pistons. Yellow AE springs. Out on tower, out on arms.
Camber link long and up.
B front block and A rear block. Rear block raised 1.7mm and front raised 2mm (for kick-up). This is a high roll center. Can also use antidive to square up corners more.
~~2mm toe out on wheels ( a little).
One-way.
Red sway bar.
Rear
50 wt AE oil w/ 3-hole pistons. Yellow AE springs (or AE Purple). Second hole in on tower, out on arms.
Camber link long and down on tower.
AA blocks flat on chassis for 2 degree rear toe in.
Red sway bar.
TIres were PLaid front sauced 50% and Purple rears sauced full. I used Corally Jack the Gripper. I also dialed roll into my radio.
My feelings on this set-up is that car is very free and reacts slowly to steering imputs (see below), but has a good amount of steering while being easy to drive. Very smooth steering all the way through corner.
I would make these changes: Put in front diff and tighten it way down. Lower rear roll center with 414 blocks and then try 6 degree front caster blocks for even more on-power steering exiting corner. To address the slow reaction I feel-I would lighten the c-hubs and lighten the front and rear arms per Surikarn and also go to 2-hole front pistons with same wt. oil.
And last-I traded my evo3 for an X-Ray with C-hub suspension. SO I will be able to make direct comparisons soon between TC3, XXXS G+, Evo3 and Evo2!!!!
Ray
I wish someone had tried this set-up besides me so I dont make an @#* out of myself if it sucks!!! But , I can tell you this set-p started out as pretty close to the kit settings, except for reduced rear toe in and Associted oil and springs. And it was changed one parameter at a time as I disliked something it was doing or thought it could do something else better.
Ray's Stock motor, Foam tire, Ozite carpet set-up
Front
60 wt AE oil w/ 3 hole pistons. Yellow AE springs. Out on tower, out on arms.
Camber link long and up.
B front block and A rear block. Rear block raised 1.7mm and front raised 2mm (for kick-up). This is a high roll center. Can also use antidive to square up corners more.
~~2mm toe out on wheels ( a little).
One-way.
Red sway bar.
Rear
50 wt AE oil w/ 3-hole pistons. Yellow AE springs (or AE Purple). Second hole in on tower, out on arms.
Camber link long and down on tower.
AA blocks flat on chassis for 2 degree rear toe in.
Red sway bar.
TIres were PLaid front sauced 50% and Purple rears sauced full. I used Corally Jack the Gripper. I also dialed roll into my radio.
My feelings on this set-up is that car is very free and reacts slowly to steering imputs (see below), but has a good amount of steering while being easy to drive. Very smooth steering all the way through corner.
I would make these changes: Put in front diff and tighten it way down. Lower rear roll center with 414 blocks and then try 6 degree front caster blocks for even more on-power steering exiting corner. To address the slow reaction I feel-I would lighten the c-hubs and lighten the front and rear arms per Surikarn and also go to 2-hole front pistons with same wt. oil.
And last-I traded my evo3 for an X-Ray with C-hub suspension. SO I will be able to make direct comparisons soon between TC3, XXXS G+, Evo3 and Evo2!!!!
Ray
Last edited by rayhuang; 03-24-2003 at 07:14 AM.
03-24-2003, 08:04 AM
#1495
Peter-you are NOT kidding!!! If you get nother chance on carpet w/foams-please try this set-up or close to it and let me know how it works for you!!! I hope Martin Crisp and some other Canadians get to try it!!
I am thinking if you could graft the suspenion system and quiet drivetrain over to a TC3 tub chassis-youd have one killer carpet car!!!
Ray
I am thinking if you could graft the suspenion system and quiet drivetrain over to a TC3 tub chassis-youd have one killer carpet car!!!
Ray
03-24-2003, 08:54 AM
#1496
Tech Fanatic
Hi, all
Im very attracted to see the replies number of this forum.
Please allow me to gave something to consider about shaft driven RC Touring car.
No matter how well the technology they(Mfg) use to build a shaft driven rc car , they will not be able to put an even load to both side of wfheel !! Its because the rotation of main shaft drive is pointing to only one side and will cause more load to that side of car.
Dont believe it?
Check your, your friends or anyone's car thats have a differential on it (the real ones). No mfg will put the diff right in the middle of the rear or front axle! Where the rotation is pointing, is where they put a longer distance(wheel axle) to compensate the load cause by torque from shaft drive.
A 1/8 buggy car driver will not notice a big difference in this, since they were "heavyweight" already and the long suspension travel is already able to make quick weight transfer thus perfectly arbsorb the extra energy cause by the shaft drive rotation.
But for on road (specially electric) I dont believe it !
I believe Mr Bervoets from serpent realize this. And I believe that his company would be the one that dont build this kind of car.
Relax, this is only my point of view.....
For novice driver like me, it will be difficult to make a good setup. Off course the "factory driver" will have no problem to handle this kind of car. Since they have an "appropriate-compensation" already.
As for the pricing of the Mr. Chaidasurya version,I believe its only around USD 410.00 not more than that. Just checked in the one of online site.
Good racing!
"Learn or pay technicians!"
Im very attracted to see the replies number of this forum.
Please allow me to gave something to consider about shaft driven RC Touring car.
No matter how well the technology they(Mfg) use to build a shaft driven rc car , they will not be able to put an even load to both side of wfheel !! Its because the rotation of main shaft drive is pointing to only one side and will cause more load to that side of car.
Dont believe it?
Check your, your friends or anyone's car thats have a differential on it (the real ones). No mfg will put the diff right in the middle of the rear or front axle! Where the rotation is pointing, is where they put a longer distance(wheel axle) to compensate the load cause by torque from shaft drive.
A 1/8 buggy car driver will not notice a big difference in this, since they were "heavyweight" already and the long suspension travel is already able to make quick weight transfer thus perfectly arbsorb the extra energy cause by the shaft drive rotation.
But for on road (specially electric) I dont believe it !
I believe Mr Bervoets from serpent realize this. And I believe that his company would be the one that dont build this kind of car.
Relax, this is only my point of view.....
For novice driver like me, it will be difficult to make a good setup. Off course the "factory driver" will have no problem to handle this kind of car. Since they have an "appropriate-compensation" already.
As for the pricing of the Mr. Chaidasurya version,I believe its only around USD 410.00 not more than that. Just checked in the one of online site.
Good racing!
"Learn or pay technicians!"
03-24-2003, 09:14 AM
#1497
Goldfinger-I will not argue the theory on that and I also have heard that anytime you shift the power delivery 90 degrees, you lose an established amount of driveleine efficiency, but in my world-I cannot find a punchier feeling car than a shaft drive and torque steer I have never felt-even on high traction carpet. Just a tweaked car and thats it. If there is any torque steer-I compensate for it without even knowing it I am guessing.
03-24-2003, 09:27 AM
#1498
Rayhuang Setup
Hi Ray,
Actually, our setups are very close to each other. The main difference seems to be that I run the front blocks flat on the chassis. This lower roll center and no kickup provides a much quicker steering response. You may want to try that.
Martin Crisp
Actually, our setups are very close to each other. The main difference seems to be that I run the front blocks flat on the chassis. This lower roll center and no kickup provides a much quicker steering response. You may want to try that.
Martin Crisp
03-24-2003, 09:48 AM
#1499
Martin,
Good point. I hadnt thought about the high roll center and its effct on the speed of weight transfer. Or-should I say how it makes car "feel". All I know is it felt sluggish going in now, but had the steerng I wanted. Maybe I would flatten front arms and lower rear roll instead. Or only go half as high on front roll. Like 0.8mm not 1.7mm!!!
Thanks!!!
Good point. I hadnt thought about the high roll center and its effct on the speed of weight transfer. Or-should I say how it makes car "feel". All I know is it felt sluggish going in now, but had the steerng I wanted. Maybe I would flatten front arms and lower rear roll instead. Or only go half as high on front roll. Like 0.8mm not 1.7mm!!!
Thanks!!!
03-24-2003, 09:57 AM
#1500
it is official, Tamiya will be releasing another limited version of the TB EVO III.
TB EVO III News
translator:
BabelFish
- As for aluminum part lead alumite specification ???
- Titanium hexagonal screw and titanium make turn buckle shaft
- rubber sealed bearings
- 3mm main chassis
- Lightweight universal shaft for strengthening diff. joint (rear)
- SOREX make tire (36r)
- Newly developed upper arm aluminum mount
- Newly developed front and back special damper stay
- Carbon plate for new one-way gear
- EVO III special sticker
- Victory commemoration sleeve equipped package
TB EVO III News
translator:
BabelFish
- As for aluminum part lead alumite specification ???
- Titanium hexagonal screw and titanium make turn buckle shaft
- rubber sealed bearings
- 3mm main chassis
- Lightweight universal shaft for strengthening diff. joint (rear)
- SOREX make tire (36r)
- Newly developed upper arm aluminum mount
- Newly developed front and back special damper stay
- Carbon plate for new one-way gear
- EVO III special sticker
- Victory commemoration sleeve equipped package
Last edited by racer; 03-24-2003 at 10:06 AM.