Serpent S411 Eryx 4.0
#46
#47
Tech Regular
#48
The team tests a lot of things, thatīs part of the job as a team driver. All I can say is that the new dampers are really good, very smooth and no leaks. The same can be said about the new diff. I have understood that the 4.0 is more aimed at asphalt racing than carpet, later this year there will be a WC in China. The new dampers and diff along with other changes make a big difference on asphalt. The team havenīt dialed the car in for carpet yet but thatīs just a matter of time IMO.
#50
#51
I have tried the car more and could manage a setup.
My setup and racereport you can find here: www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
My setup and racereport you can find here: www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
#52
I have tried the car more and could manage a setup.
My setup and racereport you can find here: www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
My setup and racereport you can find here: www.andrefossto.wordpress.com
#53
I wouldsay the car reacts much to changes. Even if you only change 1mm here and there it feels different.
I have bern in contact with Viktor Wilck and his team manager and they test alot of stuff like upsidedown suspension brackets to widen the width of the car rear and front. I will test this but i will try my way with the wheelhex instead. It should make the car handle more stable either way. Probably some more understeer my way, but it should be easy to just change the cars geometry with shocks and etc.
The car is very good and despite me being new to modified class i can feel that the car is good.
Just a note for you that build this car, put small locktite on almost every screw that goes into aluminium parts. Especially the steering parts and motor mount.
I will try some more things soon and will write all about it on the blog. So for those that want some good info on the 4.0, be sure to make visit from time to time.
I have bern in contact with Viktor Wilck and his team manager and they test alot of stuff like upsidedown suspension brackets to widen the width of the car rear and front. I will test this but i will try my way with the wheelhex instead. It should make the car handle more stable either way. Probably some more understeer my way, but it should be easy to just change the cars geometry with shocks and etc.
The car is very good and despite me being new to modified class i can feel that the car is good.
Just a note for you that build this car, put small locktite on almost every screw that goes into aluminium parts. Especially the steering parts and motor mount.
I will try some more things soon and will write all about it on the blog. So for those that want some good info on the 4.0, be sure to make visit from time to time.
#54
Don't put locktite on any of the chassis or top deck (through carbon bits) screws!! If you do you'll never get them out again! Personally I don't locktite anything on my 411's and never had anything come loose. On my nitro cars yes this is a requirement but no way on my TC.
#55
Don't put locktite on any of the chassis or top deck (through carbon bits) screws!! If you do you'll never get them out again! Personally I don't locktite anything on my 411's and never had anything come loose. On my nitro cars yes this is a requirement but no way on my TC.
I have found some of things mentioned about the car but not really explained;
- First off in the write up, and I don't know how many version of the car they have said this too, BUT, the car only comes with 4* c-hubs, there are no 2 or 6 included in the kit. (Really wish they would fix that statement)
- The shocks are vastly improved over the previous versions, better plastics, better shock shaft support, better o-ring, better pistons. The only bad thing about the shocks is still the adjuster when assembeled with the o-ring has enough drag that it will turn your shock if your not watching. I just don;t use them and haven't had a issue with them self adjusting during a run. Paul was thinking that we could possibly sand the caps down slightly to squish the bladder just enough to prevent this, and it would take much thats for sure.
- The steering rack is now 8mm center on center so this should change the rate of ackerman a bit.
- The chassis is about 4mm narrower over the 3.0 chassis.
- The diff is all together better in materials and feel after build.
- I've had one run on the car and it shows promising right out of the box.
#56
#57
#58
Don't put locktite on any of the chassis or top deck (through carbon bits) screws!! If you do you'll never get them out again! Personally I don't locktite anything on my 411's and never had anything come loose. On my nitro cars yes this is a requirement but no way on my TC.
Sorry, i think i should have bern more clear on that part. Atleast for me many screwes have loosend while driving and that is something i have never had any problems with. This was very new for me.
But to be clear where i put locktite, servo saver alu parts but not much becuse you have to watch out for the bearings not getting any. Locktite motor mount wich also loosend for me during driving. And i can ensure you i have double checked every screw since my first run. But i use very weak locktite version, so it should never have problems being stuck.
#59
Anyone know the part number for the -.75 wheel hex?
I would use blue loctite - lot of vibration in mod..
Almost done with the build - great job Serpent!
I would use blue loctite - lot of vibration in mod..
Almost done with the build - great job Serpent!