Kyosho 1/10 TF-7
#47
Tech Regular
iTrader: (28)
Thanks for the info on the C hubs! I'll keep it in mind.
I've broken a C hub and steering knuckle in the same crash and it was high speed. All the other times I've crashed and traction rolled the car during setup, I've been fortunate enough to keep the car in one piece. Only time will tell, but I seem to always break the C hub and knuckle together on all my cars. Carbon reinforced plastics or not, even the hinge pins snap.
The TF7 is extremely pricey, and I love the car so far, but I understand where you guys are coming from. The Kyosho carbon reinforced parts really have no "give" during impact and the parts cost is high with limited hobby shop support.
Honestly, of all the cars I have, the other red anodized (Spec R) brand is the best bang for the buck. I own an R2, and by far, the best of cost/ performance balance. Too bad that chassis wasn't popular either.
I have raced TRF 416, 417, 419, and Yokomo BD7, so I do have a few chassis to play with, but always end up having the Spec R on the top of my list in my collection.
I hope that TF7 of mine can see some more action. Looks like there have been about 4 up for sale in RCTech since the release.
I've broken a C hub and steering knuckle in the same crash and it was high speed. All the other times I've crashed and traction rolled the car during setup, I've been fortunate enough to keep the car in one piece. Only time will tell, but I seem to always break the C hub and knuckle together on all my cars. Carbon reinforced plastics or not, even the hinge pins snap.
The TF7 is extremely pricey, and I love the car so far, but I understand where you guys are coming from. The Kyosho carbon reinforced parts really have no "give" during impact and the parts cost is high with limited hobby shop support.
Honestly, of all the cars I have, the other red anodized (Spec R) brand is the best bang for the buck. I own an R2, and by far, the best of cost/ performance balance. Too bad that chassis wasn't popular either.
I have raced TRF 416, 417, 419, and Yokomo BD7, so I do have a few chassis to play with, but always end up having the Spec R on the top of my list in my collection.
I hope that TF7 of mine can see some more action. Looks like there have been about 4 up for sale in RCTech since the release.
#48
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
Thanks for the info on the C hubs! I'll keep it in mind.
I've broken a C hub and steering knuckle in the same crash and it was high speed. All the other times I've crashed and traction rolled the car during setup, I've been fortunate enough to keep the car in one piece. Only time will tell, but I seem to always break the C hub and knuckle together on all my cars. Carbon reinforced plastics or not, even the hinge pins snap.
The TF7 is extremely pricey, and I love the car so far, but I understand where you guys are coming from. The Kyosho carbon reinforced parts really have no "give" during impact and the parts cost is high with limited hobby shop support.
Honestly, of all the cars I have, the other red anodized (Spec R) brand is the best bang for the buck. I own an R2, and by far, the best of cost/ performance balance. Too bad that chassis wasn't popular either.
I have raced TRF 416, 417, 419, and Yokomo BD7, so I do have a few chassis to play with, but always end up having the Spec R on the top of my list in my collection.
I hope that TF7 of mine can see some more action. Looks like there have been about 4 up for sale in RCTech since the release.
I've broken a C hub and steering knuckle in the same crash and it was high speed. All the other times I've crashed and traction rolled the car during setup, I've been fortunate enough to keep the car in one piece. Only time will tell, but I seem to always break the C hub and knuckle together on all my cars. Carbon reinforced plastics or not, even the hinge pins snap.
The TF7 is extremely pricey, and I love the car so far, but I understand where you guys are coming from. The Kyosho carbon reinforced parts really have no "give" during impact and the parts cost is high with limited hobby shop support.
Honestly, of all the cars I have, the other red anodized (Spec R) brand is the best bang for the buck. I own an R2, and by far, the best of cost/ performance balance. Too bad that chassis wasn't popular either.
I have raced TRF 416, 417, 419, and Yokomo BD7, so I do have a few chassis to play with, but always end up having the Spec R on the top of my list in my collection.
I hope that TF7 of mine can see some more action. Looks like there have been about 4 up for sale in RCTech since the release.
#49
I did break my c hub and steering arm, but it took a couple good whacks. Both times I turned to early at the end of the straight and clipped the front right wheel. I also bounced off a couple other boards too in the infield at times. The second time I turned to early off the straight is when it broke. For me, it seems durable within reason, though this is my first time running modified. I also had to replace the spur, on one hit, I busted a tooth.
I like the way the car drives, it feels smooth. And it didn't take much in setup changes to adapt to low traction. Raised the roll center and added .5mm droop to front and rear.
Besides my LHS, I have located other suppliers online for parts. I'm assuming the parts supply is the reason why people are selling the car. Right now I am hoping for my shipment of parts to show up as my plan was to go to the Stockotn Showdown carpet race.
Overall I am very happy with the car, and will continue to run it. Thank you for the tip on using the T4 C hub if in a bind.
I like the way the car drives, it feels smooth. And it didn't take much in setup changes to adapt to low traction. Raised the roll center and added .5mm droop to front and rear.
Besides my LHS, I have located other suppliers online for parts. I'm assuming the parts supply is the reason why people are selling the car. Right now I am hoping for my shipment of parts to show up as my plan was to go to the Stockotn Showdown carpet race.
Overall I am very happy with the car, and will continue to run it. Thank you for the tip on using the T4 C hub if in a bind.
#52
Tech Adept
Hello guys,
I am waiting for my TF7 to arrive and I am reading this thread with interest.
Coming from a full race year with the TF6SP I must say it is a surprise to read that the TF7 is so fragile. OK I did brake some parts in a full year with about 10 races in the calendar but that was mainly to poor driving.
Is there someone who went from the TF6 to the TF7? I would be interested to know how different the two cars are...
Thank you!
I am waiting for my TF7 to arrive and I am reading this thread with interest.
Coming from a full race year with the TF6SP I must say it is a surprise to read that the TF7 is so fragile. OK I did brake some parts in a full year with about 10 races in the calendar but that was mainly to poor driving.
Is there someone who went from the TF6 to the TF7? I would be interested to know how different the two cars are...
Thank you!
#54
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
That's probably the case. I believe they used the Carbon parts because it makes the car sharper through the corners. As I stated before, when I went to the xray C-hubs I noticed an immediate push most likely due to the flex and also a bit because it eliminated some steering throw. So IMO I think the carbon parts make the car ultra sharp where you can steer inside of anyone but the moment you touch a barrier it'll break away. I come from offroad too. I had the rb6 for a long time and loved it. Front towers were a weak point on that car but that was it. In general I donot believe the K cars have durability in mind. I'm sure I can make an xray just as sharp with tuning and it will also allow me to make a few mistakes as I go without biting me in the ass.
#55
Hello guys,
I am waiting for my TF7 to arrive and I am reading this thread with interest.
Coming from a full race year with the TF6SP I must say it is a surprise to read that the TF7 is so fragile. OK I did brake some parts in a full year with about 10 races in the calendar but that was mainly to poor driving.
Is there someone who went from the TF6 to the TF7? I would be interested to know how different the two cars are...
Thank you!
I am waiting for my TF7 to arrive and I am reading this thread with interest.
Coming from a full race year with the TF6SP I must say it is a surprise to read that the TF7 is so fragile. OK I did brake some parts in a full year with about 10 races in the calendar but that was mainly to poor driving.
Is there someone who went from the TF6 to the TF7? I would be interested to know how different the two cars are...
Thank you!
The area where mine snapped is the middle of the C Hub. The opening for the shaft. The steering arm broke where the lower screw goes in. Even if it was a softer plastic, I would assume the threads would have stripped out, so either way I would have lost the steering arm. The car took a few good hits against wood boards before breaking.
Once I have the parts in my hand, I'll be able to make a better comparison and take a picture.
I really like the car, and feel that if any car were to smack a wood board at full speed down the end of a straight something is going to break.
Pros - The car is nice to drive, and seems fairly easy to setup. The car gave me confidence. This is my first time driving mod tc, and I felt comfortable. And the build was great.
Cons - Parts supply. I lined up a set of suppliers I can go to for parts, but I will be keeping many on hand. My luck is, if I have the parts I won't need them, but I will need them if I do not have them.
#56
Tech Elite
iTrader: (67)
From what I can tell, some of the parts are the same, but have been hardened, in which making them more brittle. The C Hub part number TF225 for the TF6 is now TF225H, I am assuming the H stands for Hard or Hardened. As I am waiting on USPS for my parts, I am picking up parts from a friend who ran a TF6. I think the optional arms are the same, but again different part numbers as the TF7 is running harder components that don't flex.
The area where mine snapped is the middle of the C Hub. The opening for the shaft. The steering arm broke where the lower screw goes in. Even if it was a softer plastic, I would assume the threads would have stripped out, so either way I would have lost the steering arm. The car took a few good hits against wood boards before breaking.
Once I have the parts in my hand, I'll be able to make a better comparison and take a picture.
I really like the car, and feel that if any car were to smack a wood board at full speed down the end of a straight something is going to break.
Pros - The car is nice to drive, and seems fairly easy to setup. The car gave me confidence. This is my first time driving mod tc, and I felt comfortable. And the build was great.
Cons - Parts supply. I lined up a set of suppliers I can go to for parts, but I will be keeping many on hand. My luck is, if I have the parts I won't need them, but I will need them if I do not have them.
The area where mine snapped is the middle of the C Hub. The opening for the shaft. The steering arm broke where the lower screw goes in. Even if it was a softer plastic, I would assume the threads would have stripped out, so either way I would have lost the steering arm. The car took a few good hits against wood boards before breaking.
Once I have the parts in my hand, I'll be able to make a better comparison and take a picture.
I really like the car, and feel that if any car were to smack a wood board at full speed down the end of a straight something is going to break.
Pros - The car is nice to drive, and seems fairly easy to setup. The car gave me confidence. This is my first time driving mod tc, and I felt comfortable. And the build was great.
Cons - Parts supply. I lined up a set of suppliers I can go to for parts, but I will be keeping many on hand. My luck is, if I have the parts I won't need them, but I will need them if I do not have them.
#57
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/search....x=0&search.y=0
Shows the TF225 and TF225H. Kyosho America had the parts, but they got sold. I found them in Utah. Kyosho America has most of the parts still in stock.
I know on some plastics, you can boil the part to increase the durability, as they tend to allow for flex. I was thinking about boiling the plastic tree to see if it works. But before I spend the time, I was curious is someone has already tried this, with this material.
Shows the TF225 and TF225H. Kyosho America had the parts, but they got sold. I found them in Utah. Kyosho America has most of the parts still in stock.
I know on some plastics, you can boil the part to increase the durability, as they tend to allow for flex. I was thinking about boiling the plastic tree to see if it works. But before I spend the time, I was curious is someone has already tried this, with this material.
#58
Tech Adept
Hello all.
Parts availability should not be a problem where I am...off road guy too here running both RB6 and ZX6 and can't complain with the cars/quality
I can't wait to get my hands on the TF7 and see how different/easier is to drive compared to the previous version. In the old car Kyosho used to make both versions of the plastic parts...both carbon composite and plastic so maybe they will be some optional parts out in the next couple of months. The TF6 was really shit on carpet with all the plastic parts. The XRAY guys here are running carbon composite arms anyway in their cars with great success...we will see
Parts availability should not be a problem where I am...off road guy too here running both RB6 and ZX6 and can't complain with the cars/quality
I can't wait to get my hands on the TF7 and see how different/easier is to drive compared to the previous version. In the old car Kyosho used to make both versions of the plastic parts...both carbon composite and plastic so maybe they will be some optional parts out in the next couple of months. The TF6 was really shit on carpet with all the plastic parts. The XRAY guys here are running carbon composite arms anyway in their cars with great success...we will see
#59
From what I can tell, some of the parts are the same, but have been hardened, in which making them more brittle. The C Hub part number TF225 for the TF6 is now TF225H, I am assuming the H stands for Hard or Hardened. As I am waiting on USPS for my parts, I am picking up parts from a friend who ran a TF6. I think the optional arms are the same, but again different part numbers as the TF7 is running harder components that don't flex.
I had all models: TF5 Stallion, Stallion Shin Edition TF5, TF6, TF6-SP and SP2 kit. I now turn to a TF7.
This is a picture to compare the c-hub of all these models. To the left of those TF5 Stallion, amidst those of TF6 and TF7 those of right.
You will notice that on the bag there wrote TF7 / 6. I confirm that the TF225 and TF225H parts are the same except that the F225H of TF7 to have more fat carbon particles they are more "gray" as the TF225 of TF6.
These are the photos:
cvandrome.free.fr/IMG_2616%20(Large)
cvandrome.free.fr/IMG_2617%20(Large)
cvandrome.free.fr/IMG_2618%20(Large)
Sorry, but I'm not allowed to post URLs to other sites because you have no made a certain number of posts.
Tape h t t p : / / before cvandrome to see photos.
If someone could post links pictures it would be nice. Thank you.
#60