Anyone have a good carpet vta setup for a jrxs-r
#1
Anyone have a good carpet vta setup for a jrxs-r
I am in the process of rebuilding a jrxs-r and could use a decent starting point for vta on carpet thanks a lot!
#2
#3
I have looked there is nothing vta specific i know the vta tires are going to play a huge roll in how the needs to be set up i figure someone has to be running one still they were a pretty good car for the day
#5
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
For low to med traction guys at our track have used the kit foam setup with a lot of success. If traction is high enough (trans am nats) the car starts to traction roll we reduce the springs to 15 front 12 rear (some have used 12 and 10) lighten the oil in the shocks and take all the screws out of the top deck but the front and rear. There may be a few other changes we made but I don't have the car anymore and gave away my setup sheets. However my buddy runs the foam setup and is right at the front all the time with the car.
#7
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I have not raced my JRX-S Type R in VTA or USGT, but like I said before the 17.5 turn setup I run shouldn't be too bad. I'll see what I can remember:
FRONT:
Roll Center: Arms mounted on the low roll center setting, close to the chassis. Front stock links, mounted in either the upper or lower inner link position on the tower.
Alignment: 1 or 2 degrees of camber, a degree or so of toe out.
1 or 2 mm of droop from ride height.
Shocks: 35 weight fluid with Losi #56 piston, 17.5 pound spring, middle or inner hole on the shock tower.
Swaybar: Medium-Hard swaybar.
Diff: SPOOL
REAR:
Roll-Center: Arm mounted low, like the front. Long link, outer hole on the hub, middle inner hole on the shock tower.
Alignment: 2 degrees of camber
1.5-2mm of droop from ride height.
Shocks: 30 or 35 weight with Losi 56 piston, 12.5 pound spring, inner hole on the arm and middle or inner hole on the tower.
Swaybar: Medium-Soft.
Diff: just tight enough to not slip under power
+1 degree rear hubs for 3 degrees total rear toe-in.
I run a shorty lipo pack and mount the ESC in the battery tray behind it. I also run the steel battery tray to get the extra ballast and make weight. This makes the car very, very stiff but I never found much advantage in softening the chassis, i would rather have the flex in the suspension. Under high grip this setup I listed is very soft and may allow the side of the chassis to drag, if this happens I found that moving the swaybar ball mounts up the bar to make it harder solves most of the problem.
How good was this car? I came within two corner dots of TQ'ing and winning this race, my car is orange/yellow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJIfZ...vH2xGlHKW-NGDQ
The guy who beat me was a better driver than me, I had the superior car through most of the day.
A month after that race, and the very next time I put the car on the track, I TQ'd with the Type R at TQRC in California, ran fast lap of 17.5 touring at the event, but I had some bad luck with lapped traffic in the main.
Some pictures from another thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...tively-14.html
FRONT:
Roll Center: Arms mounted on the low roll center setting, close to the chassis. Front stock links, mounted in either the upper or lower inner link position on the tower.
Alignment: 1 or 2 degrees of camber, a degree or so of toe out.
1 or 2 mm of droop from ride height.
Shocks: 35 weight fluid with Losi #56 piston, 17.5 pound spring, middle or inner hole on the shock tower.
Swaybar: Medium-Hard swaybar.
Diff: SPOOL
REAR:
Roll-Center: Arm mounted low, like the front. Long link, outer hole on the hub, middle inner hole on the shock tower.
Alignment: 2 degrees of camber
1.5-2mm of droop from ride height.
Shocks: 30 or 35 weight with Losi 56 piston, 12.5 pound spring, inner hole on the arm and middle or inner hole on the tower.
Swaybar: Medium-Soft.
Diff: just tight enough to not slip under power
+1 degree rear hubs for 3 degrees total rear toe-in.
I run a shorty lipo pack and mount the ESC in the battery tray behind it. I also run the steel battery tray to get the extra ballast and make weight. This makes the car very, very stiff but I never found much advantage in softening the chassis, i would rather have the flex in the suspension. Under high grip this setup I listed is very soft and may allow the side of the chassis to drag, if this happens I found that moving the swaybar ball mounts up the bar to make it harder solves most of the problem.
How good was this car? I came within two corner dots of TQ'ing and winning this race, my car is orange/yellow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJIfZ...vH2xGlHKW-NGDQ
The guy who beat me was a better driver than me, I had the superior car through most of the day.
A month after that race, and the very next time I put the car on the track, I TQ'd with the Type R at TQRC in California, ran fast lap of 17.5 touring at the event, but I had some bad luck with lapped traffic in the main.
Some pictures from another thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...tively-14.html