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Old 09-29-2015, 05:24 PM   #1621
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Also the battery hold down. I see it holds the battery from falling out in one direction ad the little pieces move in to clamp on the battery which will stop forward an back movement. But how does the lipo not slide back into the belts? And also what is the best way to hold the battery down? Dont want to use Velcro straps cause that will limit ground clearance right?
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:37 PM   #1622
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Don't know if you can see in this pic how the top deck is arched because of that pivoting system piece.
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:38 PM   #1623
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Here you can see how there is a gap between the top deck and the spur bearing holder
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:20 PM   #1624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Don't know if you can see in this pic how the top deck is arched because of that pivoting system piece.
Clearly something has been built wrong on that, take it apart and check;


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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Here you can see how there is a gap between the top deck and the spur bearing holder
I assume they're not Xray, the idea is that it provides clearance when not using the layshaft screws.
When using those screws you need to add 4off, 1mm shims to fill the gap to the top deck
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:09 PM   #1625
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Clearly something has been built wrong on that, take it apart and check;




I assume they're not Xray, the idea is that it provides clearance when not using the layshaft screws.
When using those screws you need to add 4off, 1mm shims to fill the gap to the top deck
Can you explain this a little more? Keep in mind I am new to on road and xray. The parts are spec R I believe. So where is it supposed to add clearance and for what? And I don't know what layshaft screws are. So are you saying it is supposed to be arched like that? I also have the straight post piece that goes in the spot where the pivoting part is. Maybe I should remove the pivoting part and top deck and replace it with the stock deck and straight shaft piece to add more rigidity.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:14 PM   #1626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Can you explain this a little more? Keep in mind I am new to on road and xray. The parts are spec R I believe. So where is it supposed to add clearance and for what? And I don't know what layshaft screws are. So are you saying it is supposed to be arched like that? I also have the straight post piece that goes in the spot where the pivoting part is. Maybe I should remove the pivoting part and top deck and replace it with the stock deck and straight shaft piece to add more rigidity.
He is saying you need to add 1mm shims underneath the top deck so that you don't get the arc when you screw them down.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:42 PM   #1627
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Also the battery hold down. I see it holds the battery from falling out in one direction ad the little pieces move in to clamp on the battery which will stop forward an back movement. But how does the lipo not slide back into the belts? And also what is the best way to hold the battery down? Dont want to use Velcro straps cause that will limit ground clearance right?

There is a small black plastic nut on the chassis that keeps the lipo in place. I can see them in your picture.

Use tape to hold the battery in. Strapping tape is OK but the Hudy tape is the best around IMO.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:32 AM   #1628
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Clearly something has been built wrong on that, take it apart and check;
In this picture, there is one of the black plastic parts under the top deck, in your picture, there are two plastic pieces stacked on top of one another which looks like it's the cause of your problem.
Take the top deck off and see whats under there.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:39 AM   #1629
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Here you can see how there is a gap between the top deck and the spur bearing holder
This particular gap (provided you've solved the bending top deck issue) is deliberate, it's so that when you run without the screws that go through the top deck into the orange layshaft holders, the top deck has some clearance so it doesn't run on the holders. You need to put shims between the holders and the top deck when adding the layshaft screws (this is a tuning option)
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Old 09-30-2015, 03:10 AM   #1630
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Thank you guys, you're being most helpful.
Question: what is an ECS?
Regarding the wheels... I've read worrysome reports of rubber wheels destroyed in one pack and alchemy treatment to gain some grip. That's why I ask. Foam tires are very cheap...
ECS stands for Equalized Corner Speed. It is Xray's version of the double jointed axles which are used on the front to eliminate chatter while turning.

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...687e0864e253bd

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...c5d16d8b113c10

I think whatever tire you use is really just going to depend on the track you race at. You should check there to see if they have any specific rules on tires.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:30 AM   #1631
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Originally Posted by RioImmagina View Post
Thank you guys, you're being most helpful.
Question: what is an ECS?
Regarding the wheels... I've read worrysome reports of rubber wheels destroyed in one pack and alchemy treatment to gain some grip. That's why I ask. Foam tires are very cheap...
ECS are driveshafts we use for the front of the car.. they are double jointed, unlike the stock shafts. they go in the front to eliminate wheel chatter when in the turn. the inner tire will want to wobble. there are videos of it happening on youtube.

Foam tires.. well.. i dont know if you will be using foam tires for touring car. there may be some classes.. but.. its mainly rubber here. i was like you.. but found.. the tire wear isnt that bad. some guys will want to buy a new set of tires for each run. we have a rule here at most races.. spec tires.. and at big races.. your only allowed say.. 2 sets for 17.5, and 3 sets for mod. thats for all races.. however.. your able to buy sets for practice and not be used for races.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:46 AM   #1632
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ECS are driveshafts we use for the front of the car.. they are double jointed, unlike the stock shafts. they go in the front to eliminate wheel chatter when in the turn. the inner tire will want to wobble. there are videos of it happening on youtube.

Foam tires.. well.. i dont know if you will be using foam tires for touring car. there may be some classes.. but.. its mainly rubber here. i was like you.. but found.. the tire wear isnt that bad. some guys will want to buy a new set of tires for each run. we have a rule here at most races.. spec tires.. and at big races.. your only allowed say.. 2 sets for 17.5, and 3 sets for mod. thats for all races.. however.. your able to buy sets for practice and not be used for races.
Ehi dgrobe, good to see you here as well!
So, beside the kit, I need this ECS thing, wheels, body? And electronics...
What do you guys recommend for 13.5 class combo? Hobbywing?
What kind of servo? Does the regular 1/8 servos fit?
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:42 AM   #1633
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2016 spec is out:



Summary of changes:

– All-new chassis design
– All-new motor mount flex system
– All-new top deck
– All-new rear suspension mount for ARS rear suspension
– All-new front ECS drive shafts
– Improved traction
– Improved steering characteristics
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:15 AM   #1634
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Originally Posted by RioImmagina View Post
Ehi dgrobe, good to see you here as well!
So, beside the kit, I need this ECS thing, wheels, body? And electronics...
What do you guys recommend for 13.5 class combo? Hobbywing?
What kind of servo? Does the regular 1/8 servos fit?
ur regular servos will work yes.

i really like the Protoform LTCR, seems to give best overall performance for a body.

i run tekin RSX, and Trinity D4 motor in the 17.5 class. i know tekin is about to release the new Gen3 motors.. so.. be on the lookout for that.

one more thing.. not mentioned.. get a good fan. you will for sure want one of those. i got the Wild Turbo fan.
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:24 AM   #1635
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
2016 spec is out:



Summary of changes:

– All-new chassis design
– All-new motor mount flex system
– All-new top deck
– All-new rear suspension mount for ARS rear suspension
– All-new front ECS drive shafts
– Improved traction
– Improved steering characteristics
not too much difference.. like that they included the ECS shafts.. other than that.. nothing outrageous.. thought they would do some updated steering to be a full float steering..

i will be using my 2015 for next year.
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