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Old 06-04-2014, 04:27 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
The 3.0 steering rack has pressed in bearings in the arms and the rack itself now uses a pressed in flanged bearing, very slop free with no mods required.

The lower bulkhead bearing holders are machined out quite a bit compared to the 2.0 and lower versions.

The ball links are considerably better as far as too tight or too loose, these ones are just right.

There is very little trimming of plastic required off of trees. Very small amounts of flashing cleaned up easily with a file.

The shock pistons are now all already separated and looks like there is no prep work required to clean flashing up as when they where on a tree.

The diff gears look like they are a harder material than the previous ones.

The kits are really cleaned up compared to the previous kits which where not that bad.

The misses

As expected, the kit only comes with the 4* c-hubs, no real surprise here, but wish they would fix that up in the description of the car.

There is no 3rd body post provision on the shock tower as stated.

The rest of the car assembly is very good.
Thanks Gary. Are U using different castor than 4* in your 2.0?
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:09 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Thanks Gary. Are U using different castor than 4* in your 2.0?
Good question. I have been running 4* with 0.5mm of anti-dive with the car. I did have 6* in my mod car with the same anti-dive, which I liked quite a bit. They where borrowed c-hubs so I had to give them back, but now have got a set for myself, so I will be doing some runs with them to see which are better.
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Old 06-04-2014, 11:26 PM   #108
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Default 3.0 parts update

A couple other things changed on the new car.

Shock bladders are new and much thinner/softer than the previous ones. Black in colour now opposed to the whitish/clear ones. No drilled caps on you can get very close to zero rebound pretty easily.

The shock o-rings in the kit come as clear ones which are different than the 160110 black ones that don't work very well. Hopefully these ones will be better.

The top shock collar is now machined with the top edge opened up enough that you can screw it all the way up about 1mm more so if you where at the end of adjustment with the Yokomo springs you should now have a little bit more adjustment.

Car looks pretty nice, hope to get it on the track soon.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:20 AM   #109
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Serpent Eryx 3.0 chassis stiffner
Attached Thumbnails
Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-eryx-411-3.0-rear-stiff.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-eryx-411-3.0-front-stiff.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-eryx-411-3.0-full-stiff.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-eryx-411-3.0-kit-soft.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-eryx-411-30.0-kit-standard.jpg  

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Old 06-05-2014, 01:06 PM   #110
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Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
I was thinking of picking up a Eryx 2.0, I was wondering if it could be updated to a 3.0?
Yes you can update it. You'll need to buy the following:
  1. Motormount V4 (3) (#401607)
  2. Chassis 411 alu 2mm 7075T6 (#401608)
  3. Double joint cardan set V2 (2) (#401610)
Also the Eryx 3.0 comes with composite antiroll bar mount pieces instead of aluminum pieces that came with the Eryx 2.0. As far as I can tell the composite antiroll bar pieces are not available to buy individually.
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:15 PM   #111
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Has anyone gone the other way & replaced the aluminium chassis with the eryx2 carbon fibre chassis for a comparison of the 2 ???
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:11 PM   #112
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Has anyone gone the other way & replaced the aluminium chassis with the eryx2 carbon fibre chassis for a comparison of the 2 ???
The cog is going yo change but I don't imagine it being anything too significant. The main changes to the 3.0 bulk heads and alloys is to lighten everything up as the weight is down low in the chassis now. I'm hoping to run my 2.0 convert soon to see how it handles back to back with a std 2.0.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:19 PM   #113
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Has anyone gone the other way & replaced the aluminium chassis with the eryx2 carbon fibre chassis for a comparison of the 2 ???
I have installed the eryx 2.0 2.25 bottom deck. Bolted up perfectly except front of the motor mount did not sit flat on the chassis. It was designed so part of it sits in the milled out section of the aluminium chassis.
Fixed this by installing 0.5mm spacers under the motor mount, however this caused spur holder to touch bottom of the top deck .. so 1.0 mm spacers under the top deck required to raise it.

The result, felt a bit slow to react then fitted the stiffener post .. much better.

An improvement over the aluminium chassis for rubber tyre set up on low grip asphalt. The motor mount / top deck spacers have not effected performance.

Will qualify that by saying this is for 13.5 blinky so not sure how it would do in mod.

My son races an eryx 2.0 with option 2.0mm hard carbon deck, in this configuration the eryx 2.0 feels more stable and responsive than the eryx 3.0.

Keen to try the 2.0 carbon deck on my eryx 3.0, back ordered .. coming soon I hope.

Note to self .. need to change my sig
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:22 AM   #114
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Also, just wanted to mention something about the aluminum chassis plate.

A lot of people worry that the aluminum will bend too easily or become permanently tweaked after a few board taps......

Last weekend I had some pretty nasty hits (17.5). Our layout had a full-throttle right-turn on the left side of the track that had a fairly square apex. We don't have ClikTrak at the moment. I hit this apex at full throttle a few times, along with a couple of tumbles through the sweeper. Over the two days I ran over 30 or 40 battery packs through the car.

I did NOT even need to de-tweak the car once. There was not one time on the track that I felt something was off or that a part of the car was out of alignment. On the first pack I set the radio trim for exact turn angle left and right, and so that the car went perfectly straight on the backstretch. 40-something packs later including all the above mentioned hits and through qualifying/traffic the car would still track so perfectly straight on the backstretch that I did not even need to have my hand on the steering wheel.

Basically what I'm saying is, that if you have a hit hard enough to permanently tweak or bend the aluminum chassis, you probably would have broken a CF plate or done enough damage to other parts that it would cost the same to repair either way.

Unless you run on a huge track or the boards are made of pillows, I would always run an upper deck at the least for structural support.

Hope this helps with some of the confidence issues people have
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:15 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Also, just wanted to mention something about the aluminum chassis plate.

A lot of people worry that the aluminum will bend too easily or become permanently tweaked after a few board taps......

Last weekend I had some pretty nasty hits (17.5). Our layout had a full-throttle right-turn on the left side of the track that had a fairly square apex. We don't have ClikTrak at the moment. I hit this apex at full throttle a few times, along with a couple of tumbles through the sweeper. Over the two days I ran over 30 or 40 battery packs through the car.

I did NOT even need to de-tweak the car once. There was not one time on the track that I felt something was off or that a part of the car was out of alignment. On the first pack I set the radio trim for exact turn angle left and right, and so that the car went perfectly straight on the backstretch. 40-something packs later including all the above mentioned hits and through qualifying/traffic the car would still track so perfectly straight on the backstretch that I did not even need to have my hand on the steering wheel.

Basically what I'm saying is, that if you have a hit hard enough to permanently tweak or bend the aluminum chassis, you probably would have broken a CF plate or done enough damage to other parts that it would cost the same to repair either way.

Unless you run on a huge track or the boards are made of pillows, I would always run an upper deck at the least for structural support.

Hope this helps with some of the confidence issues people have
You have already run 40 packs? Amazing.. I'm eager to see mine. I'm glad to hear your feedback on the aluminum chassis.
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:24 PM   #116
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Has anyone gone the other way & replaced the aluminium chassis with the eryx2 carbon fibre chassis for a comparison of the 2 ???
Andrew M is in the process of doing that I believe
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:56 PM   #117
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Default Long winded post.

First let me start off by saying I am far from a good driver. I have my hero laps, but lack consistency, tap, and blow out. So take this for what you will. Maybe it will help somebody, get me some feedback, or just help me kill time until I can get to the track again tomorrow...

So I built the 3.0 matching my most current 2.0 set up. Spool, pin sweep. Camber links long and shimmed the same (front 5mm/.5mm outside, rear 4mm/3mm), 1* camber all around, 1* front toe, .5/3.5 rear blocks, 3k rear diff oil, one hole rear arms, 2 hole front arms, blue yoke springs front (3 hole, 600 CST), black yoke rear (3 hole 500cst), and 1.4 front & rear sway bar (rear mounted to front of arm). Right off the bat, I noticed the rear would break loose bad. But I didn't change much as the track (carpet, 45x90?) was a fresh layout. After running a lot it never really got better, I was hoping grip would come up. I messed with a lot of different stuff. Even the car being a handful to drive, in 3 out of 4 races I hot lapped a far better driver and my fast to top 20 were really close, less then .2 gap, and less then .1 one heat. What I finally settled on was this... Front links middle hole, same inner shimming. Center post top deck screw removed. Battery flipped to put little more weight on rear. Rear blocks 0.0/3.5 to get little more toe. 1.2 rear sway bar (1.4 front). Rear links middle hole, only 2mm inside shim, 3mm outside. I tried short rear links and it had too much rear bite, it wanted to push. I am not totally sure if I have too much steering or not enough rear grip. Also, for q3 I put on less used tires. The ones I had even had ring of death on rear (Solaris mediums) with probably 30+ runs. If you don't know what I mean by the ring of death, it's a deep groove the wears on the inside of usually just the front tires. I usually see this with Solaris tires more then other brands I have ran. I wanted to stick with used tires as I have a bunch with few runs on them and today being test and tune, didn't want to waste tires from a good batch. Also I glue the front sidewalls to help prevent traction rolling. 6* castor blocks actually helped a lot with corner speed. I hate using aluminum due to my tapping, I will figure out a way to fit another companies plastic hubs on soon, or as somebody mentioned before using a .5mm shim under the front block. I was using a motor (17.5 blinky) with slightly weaker rotor compared to another one I have, 1500 vs 1600. 30* timing FDR 4.17! My fast lap with that was 9.6 In the main I went to my other motor with 30* timing, FDR at 4.0. Hot lap of 9.5! But my belt popped off. It seems stretched or too long. My front spool is kinda jacked up as the pulley don't track straight, has a little wobble (noticed this when I built it). I did tap and the belt popped, so maybe a combination of things, my bad driving, messed up front pulley, or possible stretched belt caused it to pop off. After the main I adjusted the bearing carriers in the front to second to last hole to tighten (started in middle), belt is still very loose. Tomorrow I am going to try 1 million gear diff. If it has too much steering I will build a 2.5 million. Also going to try 1.2 front sway bar, just to see. If I can keep the amount of steering I have, and the rear from breaking free, it's going to be a missile. No traction rolls, not even tippy if I throw it into a turn.

So far I am very happy with this car.
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Old 06-08-2014, 07:58 PM   #118
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Since you guys are talking about the durability of the car I was wondering if the wide front bumper from the Serpent 1/10 nitro sedan still fit the S411/S400 chassis. I need some extra protection from myself.
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:18 AM   #119
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New RRS System released !
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Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-ser-401618.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-ser-401619.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-ser-401620.jpg   Serpent S411 Eryx 3.0-ser-401617.jpg  
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:59 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam B View Post
First let me start off by saying I am far from a good driver. I have my hero laps, but lack consistency, tap, and blow out. So take this for what you will. Maybe it will help somebody, get me some feedback, or just help me kill time until I can get to the track again tomorrow...

So I built the 3.0 matching my most current 2.0 set up. Spool, pin sweep. Camber links long and shimmed the same (front 5mm/.5mm outside, rear 4mm/3mm), 1* camber all around, 1* front toe, .5/3.5 rear blocks, 3k rear diff oil, one hole rear arms, 2 hole front arms, blue yoke springs front (3 hole, 600 CST), black yoke rear (3 hole 500cst), and 1.4 front & rear sway bar (rear mounted to front of arm). Right off the bat, I noticed the rear would break loose bad. But I didn't change much as the track (carpet, 45x90?) was a fresh layout. After running a lot it never really got better, I was hoping grip would come up. I messed with a lot of different stuff. Even the car being a handful to drive, in 3 out of 4 races I hot lapped a far better driver and my fast to top 20 were really close, less then .2 gap, and less then .1 one heat. What I finally settled on was this... Front links middle hole, same inner shimming. Center post top deck screw removed. Battery flipped to put little more weight on rear. Rear blocks 0.0/3.5 to get little more toe. 1.2 rear sway bar (1.4 front). Rear links middle hole, only 2mm inside shim, 3mm outside. I tried short rear links and it had too much rear bite, it wanted to push. I am not totally sure if I have too much steering or not enough rear grip. Also, for q3 I put on less used tires. The ones I had even had ring of death on rear (Solaris mediums) with probably 30+ runs. If you don't know what I mean by the ring of death, it's a deep groove the wears on the inside of usually just the front tires. I usually see this with Solaris tires more then other brands I have ran. I wanted to stick with used tires as I have a bunch with few runs on them and today being test and tune, didn't want to waste tires from a good batch. Also I glue the front sidewalls to help prevent traction rolling. 6* castor blocks actually helped a lot with corner speed. I hate using aluminum due to my tapping, I will figure out a way to fit another companies plastic hubs on soon, or as somebody mentioned before using a .5mm shim under the front block. I was using a motor (17.5 blinky) with slightly weaker rotor compared to another one I have, 1500 vs 1600. 30* timing FDR 4.17! My fast lap with that was 9.6 In the main I went to my other motor with 30* timing, FDR at 4.0. Hot lap of 9.5! But my belt popped off. It seems stretched or too long. My front spool is kinda jacked up as the pulley don't track straight, has a little wobble (noticed this when I built it). I did tap and the belt popped, so maybe a combination of things, my bad driving, messed up front pulley, or possible stretched belt caused it to pop off. After the main I adjusted the bearing carriers in the front to second to last hole to tighten (started in middle), belt is still very loose. Tomorrow I am going to try 1 million gear diff. If it has too much steering I will build a 2.5 million. Also going to try 1.2 front sway bar, just to see. If I can keep the amount of steering I have, and the rear from breaking free, it's going to be a missile. No traction rolls, not even tippy if I throw it into a turn.

So far I am very happy with this car.
Your car looked good on the track. Think you have yourself a winner.
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