TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Just a couple of questions about Motor Breakin...

I have read several people say 3V for several minutes, is that 3? 4? 5? or is there something I can look at and see and know that it is done...

Also I have been told about Bushing break-in, do I need to lubricate them before breakin? Is there a special lube to use??

Hood alignment...does it make a huge difference where it is worth it to buy a tool to do it, and if so, which one does the job well?

Brush Serators...Is it safe to re-do the brushes and if so is the Trinity one good or the Pro-Match I see they both have them, but which will do the job better?

Last question...Comm Drops, do you use them every run, I really have never felt a difference, but I use some drops made by a local shop here, not sure if they are doing anything, also I read that someone said I should oil the bushings before each run? is that true?

New to teh hobby and just trying to figure out things that can make the motor work a little better...

Thanks in advance...
John

TC3Killer

you don't need a special tool to get that pinion off. all you have to do is put the motor up side down i a vice. So it's kinda hanging by thepinion.then take a hammer and a smallscrewdriver or something and tap the motor shaft. the motor will fall as soon as the pinion loosens, so be careful

Speedo

I break in at 2.5 volts for three minutes. If you have a T35 or similar charger it really helps cause you can set the time and leave it. Whenever you are breaking in new brushes, put some bushing oil in. I use the niftech stuff. Or you can just go to the automotive store and buy some penzoil, that will work fine. Other companies also make stuff. The rc stuff is a little better than the penzoil because it is lighter, though.

Yes, hood alignment is very important. Just use a bar that fits in the hood, loosen the screws and do it that way. There is a bit on it in the motor black book which you can read here
http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blackbook.htm

Yeah, I re-serrate brushes also. If you're racing at a big race, always replace the brushes after 4 runs, but for regular racing I will reserate a pair of brushes at least once. I use the pro-match one. It does everything you need it to do. The Trinity one is alot more expensive and does a bit more. It also comes with a slave motor however. For a slave motor on my pro-match one, I just got a D3 can and put a stock arm in, then set the timing to 0. Works really well.

Comm drops- use them when breaking in brushes. You have to be careful if you are going to use them before every race, if you put too much in you can have fireworks in the back of your car. I would recomend using them only before your 3-5 minute break in.

Josh

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Tc3 - He has a HPI car. For larger pinions, he can't remove the motor from the car unless the pinion is off.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

I was about to post the same response.

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

for 12th scale, 4 cell (stock), what should i do to my p2k 2? some guys are running a GM3 and others a p2k, so i figure a p2k 2 is a good idea. the track has a straight, some long fast corners, and some 180's. also what will last me 5 or more runs? any suggestions would be great thanks!

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Hood Alignment...

I just read the whole black book and well, I am not sure what he is talking about exactly...anyone have a picture or something more to explain it further, I understand the parts and all but just not the practical of what I am looking for as good or bad...

Thanks,
John

Speedo

Basically you want to get the wear pattern on the brushes even. If it is un-even, it can hurt motor performnace.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

Hood alignment invovles having the brushes aligned in a manner that the wear mark on the brushes is dead center on the face of the brushes. You can gauge the alignment that way. You will need to use new brushes for this technique unless you have an alignment tool.

I use my brushes for aligning the hoods. I also have the brush serration tools from ProMatch which is one of my best investments.

marvi

iTrader: (82)

thanks. i think ive seen one made by kose. i just wanted to make sure if it will work in a TC3. if i strip a grubscrew on the pinion, the motor cam stays on the motor and i wanted to make sure that the "C" part will have enough clearance between the motor cam and the pinion.

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

I used to have a Bolink puller and there is no way it would work on a TC3 with the cam on. I set my pinion on so far I dont think i could use a screwdriver to get it off.

ottoman

iTrader: (13)

I smoked my P2K2 today, looks just like GM3 that went up in smoke last season. I hope this isnt a sign of things to come.

wolfeman09

What kind of brushes and springs are you running on your P2k's? I was looking a Trinity's webite for a description of their brushes, but they must have the wrost site on the planet. I could not find anything.

thanks in advance...

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

What was the FDR? I have smoked MVP's but never a GM3 or P2K. I usually work with a FDR of 5.25 - 6.5, but rarely the higher gearing.

zxt

I'll try to get a pinion puller tom....but I'll try to get it off tonight by tweezer...somebody advices me on that.

Marvi: do u have the same problem?

Now for my question: What makes my Matrix Stock motor so hot? hot like you cant touch it for a second...maybe half a second yes but full second no. Will a bad battery makes it run so hot? I'm only using 19T pinion on my TA-03...I'm used to 22T...I guess it should be a lot cooler because I lower my pinion. I suspect the batt because the wires coming out of the batts is hot after only a minute of running...same goes with the batt and also the batts is more than warm after I charged it...it hot like you just finish using it...

I'm using aluminum motor mount that serves as heatsink and also aluminum motor cover that serves as heatsink too...and still my motor is too hot to touch...

Need help...