DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

just remember that AE has alot of upgrades that work great on the TC6.2

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/

fredB

No news of the future ?

One year without new top riders setup available ?

I hope we will have some news at Reedy race !

Fred

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Hello guys,

I have a serious noise problem with my 6.2. Everytime I brake into a hairpin after a straight the car make a horrible noise like the belt is sliding over the pulleys. It does it for several months now and I have no clue what causes it. Following a list of the things I tried and/or checked to (unsuccessfully) get rid of the noise:

- belt tension: with increasing the tension to a ridiculous level I could reduce the noise, but won't get rid of it completly. But so the drivetrain is very much unfree and I never needed this strong tension for my TC5, TC6, TC6.1, T4...,
- belts: checked and changed to new ones, no improvement,
- belt pulleys: all checked and changed for new ones, without success...,
- esc: when talking to Martin Hofer about this problem and having him driving and examining my car, he suggested to change the esc. Did it and had no noise change,
- ball bearings: checked and changed to new ones, no success...,
- I check the pinion/spur every run, no wear here.

My car is in a good condition and gets a full service regularly. I check the screws after every run and couldn't find any sign of wear that could be caused by the noise. I am now at a point where I don't know where to continue my search Any help or idea is appreciated!

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure you're running the 6.2 spool and not the slipper spool?

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

Are you running a gear diff?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Spool (not the TC6 slipper spool) in front and gear diff in the rear.

Bubblehead

I'm getting back into racing 17.5, and I want to replace my spool with a diff. I have the following 10k, 20k, 30k, 60k, and 100k diff fluid, which diff fluid should I use? rear diff has stock setup 40wt.

turtlehill

2.5M CST Gravity diff oil worked best for me. Lighter oils made the car push through the turns. You can get it through Reflex Racing or Superior Hobbies. About $18.00.

Bubblehead

Thanks, what are you using in the rear diff?

Joe Maxey

iTrader: (14)

Try a new rotor in the motor. Back in the beginning of brushless I had this happen and it was the rotor. Wouldn't have believed it until I changed it and it went quiet.

turtlehill

I use 1300 CST in the rear diff. Works well on our track - medium grip asphalt.

Bubblehead

2.5M/1300 thanks.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

WOW!

There are so many things that could be causing this. here is my list...[LIST][*]Anything rubbing when the front suspension is compressed?[*]Belt rubbing on the servo mount when braking?[*]Screws coming loose on the front pulley?[*]Screws coming loose on the Spur?[*]Outdrive stripped at the pulley shaft?[*]Axle pin missing from one of the hubs?[*]Pinion spinning on the motor shaft?

A simple test for slipping drive train would be to lock the spur with a screwdriver through a hole in the gear and try to rotate each front wheel to see if they slip. Then try to rotate both rear wheels at the same time. if everything appears locked, you can eliminate slipping as being the cause of the noise. The next could be the motor so switch motors and see if that is the source of the noise.
Have you tried different wheels? Some will flex to the point where they rub on the suspension components under extreme loads. Do you still use the plastic outdrives? If so, throw them in the trash and get the metal ones.

I know that you are an experienced racer so if you are asking for help, it must be serious.

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

other long shot is a buggered bearing in the motor

waswadener

iTrader: (72)

Are you running standard CV axles or DCJ's in the front? If standard CV axles, they vibrate and make noise when the steering is at or close to full lock.