Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

That's the combo that I am running for spec and I have 0 cogging with the Team Powers motor. I have it in blinky mode with the Team Powers 13.5, end bell timing at max and ESC punch at 30.

Is your ESC firmware up to date?

royvp

iTrader: (8)

Got out today with mine.having a binding problem any ideals?put in the alum spoil in the front not sure what is causing it.
Thanks

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

Binding in the front? Can you be more specific?

royvp

iTrader: (8)

It would just chader off and on more when you turned.everything felt good belts were nice and smooth.made sure it wasn't the body pulled it off .

Gridworks Racing

iTrader: (3)

Did you check your 2 piece joint drive shafts? That may be the culprit. Make sure they aren't binding and also make sure that the pin is properly secured with thread lock.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

The build is going smoothly like you guys said. I am impressed by the quality of material, the numbered packaging, and thoughtfulness of the company.

The plastic parts are precisely moulded with tight tolerances and the threaded holes are not overly tight or overly loose. The outer open ball cups on top of the c-hub are the only ones that are too tight and they needed to be lubed as suggested in the manual.

I have built many kits over the years and VBC's numbered bags make even Tamiya lettered bags look amateur. Before I started, I lined up the bags in order and as I flipped the pages I cut the bags open in the order. There are no left over parts and I didn't have overlap of open bags. The screw bag had to be open at the start.
However, within the bags there are lots of compartments which I got tired of opening. It would be a lot easier for the builder if the bags weren't heat pressed into many many compartments.

I got a big smile on my face when I saw three bags of shims. Seriously? I don't have to buy shims on my own to make this kit slop free? THANK YOU!!
The only places I needed shimming was the steering posts and three of the long hinge pins.


I am building the shocks now.


I like how you can adjust the eccentric diff hub adapters without taking the diff out.

However, I don't like how the swaybars are held. I prefer Spec R and Tamiya style for the simplicity.
And I noticed the Kimbrough spur gears are too thick for the layshaft and I can't use them.
I have the xray spur in for now but the slight offset bothers me.
I will have to get the correctly fitting spur gears.

So far I feel this kit is on par with the T4 in terms of material quality and ease of build. But the price is $100 less expensive. I am sure it will perform terrific on the track because I have already seen these cars in action.
The only thing left to see is how durable it is. I have not broken my T4 since I built it new last spring. I hope D06 is just as durable.

Nice work VBC.

Charel

I agree with you edhchoe, I just finished my build up last night and have to say it was a super nice kit to build. Everything was clearly marked and well packed and the numbered bags helped allot.
In my kit I have some left over screws a couple of each size used in the build so at least you have a reference should you need to buy new ones. There was just one screw that seemed out of place in the screw bag, and that is a single M3/4 that was alone in a pocket, but I did double check every step and now screws was unaccounted.

I was also very happy to see the shim bag, I only have two suspension arms that has got a little play that will be sorted with the shims.

The Swaybar setup was probably the most challenging part for me, to get the double ball cup link made up for the swaybar to the 1.5mm spec, I got it as close as possible but not two are the exact same length and not 100% 1.5 either, I do think this setup could have probably been designed a little different to make the installation and setup/exchange of swaybars a little quicker and easier, but this is truly my only - of the whole kit. Everything fitted as its suppose to and looks great.

Now I have to strip it down again to do the CF prep, as I was too eager to get it together before doing the CF, so double work for me but that is fine.

Thanx VBC for a great kit, the couple of us here in South Africa that recently got our kits are doing very well on the track against the Xrays and that is with the kits only running literally a couple of days before the event, so more time, tuning these cars should be dominating on our tracks.

Thanx

bama racer

iTrader: (12)

CRC spurs will fit your car. Look for the spurs that use the 3/32 balls

Samwise

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

I'm hoping to swap to the VBC D06 soon, finances permitting. I've been running my Xray T3'12 since it was released and just switched to Mod Sedan this summer. A ton of VBC spares have already arrived from Florida via eBay for an excellent price. I'm excited to try a new car!

Anyway, I've already looked up some setup sheets from the Seattle RC Racers club where I race. Some of the setup info seemed odd, but if it works, cool! These include 2.25 degrees rear camber, 3.5 degrees of rear toe, no rear sway bar etc.

I considered the T4'14, as I have a ton of spare parts already that would fit, but I wasn't super impressed by the car's performance in person, though it does well internationally at big races. Apparently it can be hit-or-miss from what I heard kit to kit. That said, I'm no Hagberg by any stretch of the imagination haha... I don't plan to even go to any national event any time soon. Plus the VBC kit is $100 less, which helps on a tight budget.

Anyway, looking forward to this! I'll probably be asking more questions soon...

Peace,
Sam Forbes

JayL

two cars at my track running D06 and the hobbywing 3.1,including me, also no issues, we run 10.5T

one of the cars also tried the thinner chassis and no matter what we changed it was not as good, either drivability or lap time or overall time, as the stock chassis, fairly high grip asphalt with 170' straight.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

Slower class with less traction probably benefit from thinner and more flexible chassis while faster cars with high traction probably benefit from stiffer chassis to a certain degree.
Maybe the companies should develop optimized chassis for vta, stock touring, and modified touring individually.

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Got my kit ready to go and while playing with the ESC (having issues there) I was holding one rear tire, then the other. It seems the longer I hold one tire, the tighter the diffs gets. It will actually start to slow down the motor. I have messed with gear diffs in off-road and never had this issue. Is this normal for on-road, or did I completely mess up the build on my diffs.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

I can imagine the oil making a thick foam inside the diff when you do that. A thick foam might be more viscous than bubble-free oil in a confined space with a given amount of oil.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Since I'm only only one running one in Seattle.

Er, actually, John Tsang did pretty well with his last time out. I think I'm closing in on a setup, too. I think I'm going to run it in stock on Wednesday at H30 to work on it a bit more in preparation for the Can/Am challenge on Saturday.

Dave's VBC looked really good last Saturday at the Gym, though. He could carry more speed into the corner than I could, and had more drive out. It looked like it didn't rotate very hard in the middle of the corner, though. The handling kind of looked like a mod version of my scale spec car.

-Mike

JayL

re thinner chassis: Every track is different and really for the low price of the chassis it is a valueable tuning aid well worth having in your arsenal