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Old 05-10-2013, 09:15 PM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by Mugen10
Onroad question
Does batteries matter in mod if you have a middle of row pack?
I can tell a big difference in power. Am I faster with the extra power, probably not. But it sure does have more rip with my 100c packs.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ATXPro4
I can tell a big difference in power. Am I faster with the extra power, probably not. But it sure does have more rip with my 100c packs.
The same as blinky 17.5. Battery has a effect as always in electric racing.

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Old 05-10-2013, 09:21 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by Mugen10
The same as blinky 17.5. Battery has a effect as always in electric racing.

Thanks
On road yes but not so much for Off road..
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:25 AM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by Mugen10
Onroad question
Does batteries matter in mod if you have a middle of row pack?
Maybe in stock it matters more because the motor is limited by rules, so you can get an edge from a top performing battery. In mod if your battery is not the best it is possible to use a faster motor?
I'd quite like to know something about this.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:21 AM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by hana166
Maybe in stock it matters more because the motor is limited by rules, so you can get an edge from a top performing battery. In mod if your battery is not the best it is possible to use a faster motor?
I'd quite like to know something about this.
The problem with trying to motor up is that faster motor will try and draw more off the battery. You then end up overdrawing the battery. I have actually seen a strong mod motor draw an almost fully charged battery down enough that the lvc on the esc starts kicking in. Granted these were some slightly older packs.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:03 PM
  #231  
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That makes sense. Also I was thinking about this in the meantime..an inferior battery will have a higher IR which means that the voltage under load will be lower, again leading to further problems as motoring up will increase the load on the battery. So I guess a decent battery is always a good investment in a competitive environment no matter.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:39 PM
  #232  
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I run 6800 70c team psycho cells packs they run about $120 a piece. They are top level packs and they get quite warm when running the x20 5.0t. A decent pack is a must in mod. Lower grade batteries can puff if you pull to much current threw them.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:18 PM
  #233  
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100% agree .... A very good pack is a must, but also a very good charging technique(ie: high enough amps)...
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:34 PM
  #234  
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I've been running 1/12 21.5 blinky outdoors on a short, paved, twisty track. And for the longest time the 'local fast guy' would always have mad, mad rip down the straightaway. So, in turn I would change increase the timing on my motor, change the roll out ect. These changes did show some improvements, however, I still couldn't get that 'mad rip' he had. Then last night we were talking and I mentioned how fast his motor spooled up ect. He took my radio and adjusted the radios curve band to +50%, and added some punch 20%. All I can say, is was a night and day difference in the motors performance.

Futaba manual gives a simple explanation for when to use + curve bands and - curve bands. This is taken directly from their manual. (When the course conditions are good and there is no sense of torque at the power unit, set each curve to the + side (Quick Side). When the road surface is slippery and the driver wheels do not grip it, set each curve to the - minus (mild) side.

Instead of thinking the radio is only useful for EPA, DR and steering trim, really dig into the specifics and you might find something that will help enhance your driving performance. Basically, before you start blaming your motor, batteries, esc's performance. Dig deep into your radios functions, its not just for steering functions. IMO the throttle functions do have a HUGE impact on the motors response and feeling.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 05-13-2013 at 03:17 AM. Reason: It makes me think.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:41 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
I've been running 1/12 21.5 blinky outdoors on a short paved twisty track. And for the longest time the 'local fast guy' would always have mad, mad rip down the straightaway. So, I would changing the timing on my motor, change the roll out ect. These changes did show improvements, however, I still couldn't get that 'mad rip' he had. Then last night we were talking and I mentioned how fast his motor spooled up ect. He took my radio and adjusted the radios curve band to +50%, and added some punch 20%. All I can say is night and day performance.

What I am trying to say, before you start blaming your motor, batteries, esc performance. Look at your radios functions, its not just for steering functions. The throttle functions do have a HUGE impact on the motors response and feeling.
let put it this way..you r radio is your best friend
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:06 PM
  #236  
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What is radio " 20% punch"?
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:11 PM
  #237  
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Again 100% right Edward !!! I run +60% expo and 30% throttle acceleration(punch) on high grip tracks, and may vary depending on grip......
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:19 PM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by Mugen10

What is radio " 20% punch"?
read you manual...you will be surprise what your radio can do...
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:05 PM
  #239  
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Just read your manual! Which I need to do as well...lol. I know its sound cliche, but 'knowledge is power". If you can understand and work your radio parameters in conjunction with the motor you'll be ahead of the game.. Well, I hope.

Adjust your radio for each motor, and track conditions.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:15 PM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul
At the ROAR Nats last week, I was spinning the tires off the corner too easily so I backed off my motor timing about 5 degrees and went up 2 teeth. This smoothed out the bottom end and made the initial trigger rpms lower and easier to control. I wouldn't recommend just throwing more gear on it though, it will make the motor lug and run hot but when it does hit the power band it will be very aggressive. The key is to make something with a linear feel that revs free - if you stand on it, it goes but doesn't have a sort of "turbo lag" feel....
.
The key words to take out from this informative post from Josh is "power band". You can easily adjust the power band using your radio.
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