Solara

iTrader: (17)

I think the arms are coming around 2 weeks...and F104 football does not fit SP1.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Sadly no, and neither does the AE one.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Very nice! I can't wait for these option parts to hit the US!

Sweet! I'd be curious to hear what you find out

I've been thinking of trying this.. were you able to run the parallel and inward settings back to back to compare?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Actually, I have never ran the link inline at all...never did. I do all the mod from Rob King and he said the link pointing inward (the bigger the angle the better) does help to turn in tighter and sharper, and exit faster.....so I have never try the stock setting....and with this carbon battery brace, I can mount the side springs on the most outside position...

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Sweet, I didn't realize the carbon brace had the extra spring holes, I'm so getting that too!

Dammit Solara, you're really bad for my wallet

Solara

iTrader: (17)

If you look at your stock plastic one, it use the inner hole for the springs and the links....I mounted the link to the outside hole, but the side springs can only be used on the inside hole, so you must use a longer screws to mount the side springs deeper to the chassis...

With the optional carbon plate...it has the outside hole as well, so you can mount the link on the outside hole, as well as using the side springs above the link, kinda like the stock setup, but with a much wider dampering swing on the pod.

One issue.....you have to cut the body a little more in order to let that pod move without rubbing the body. It might not looks as good on the body but I still prefer the performance over the looks of the car...

And I don't believe our option parts will hurt your pocket book alot, that parts is only $10USD.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Right, I saw that in your original setup and that's what I was going to do. I'm actually using aluminum spacers to get the same spring height on both sides, and I'm using the Exotek side spring mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/f104-all...spring-mounts/

That combination is very solid and no guess work is needed. I was just going to use a longer screw with more spacers, but that optional carbon plate is as good as mine

That's ok, the rear bottom of my body is already cut out a lot for the pod, it still looks great. Plus, at speed, you can't really tell, since it's black on carbon fiber. I really need to take a picture of my chassis and body, maybe I'll do that tonight.

You're assuming I'm only getting that part... nope! There are a number of others I'll be forcing your coworkers to package up and send to me as soon as they're in stock

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Thomas Pumpler ETS Round 1 setup...he won the 1st round with this 3 days old car with stock parts....

+ YouTube Video

Ian_R

Does anyone else use spacers below the steering rack and/or a servo saver? I've tried the same as Thomas to flatten out the steering arms but, as I'm using a servo saver with its pivot ball pointing rearwards the steering locks-up.

Also, I'm thinking of making a castor block from 3mm carbonfiber. Anyone else done this?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I don't have spacers under my steering rack, but I am using a Kimbrough servo saver with the stock links/rack. I actually have the ball stud pointing forward, as with a stock servo arm, so no lockup or any other alignment issues. All I did is mount my servo a little further back in between the servo plates, works great.

Sonter

Hello guys, I need some help with gearing. At my club we race 21.5 stock and they use 2.2 fdr.... The problem is that I cannot fit a bigger pinion than 25t with the 72t spur. Is there a solution for this? I know I can change the spur with a smaller one but at the moment I don't have it and I can't find to buy locally. I need this for Sunday so I better find a solution how to make it faster with a 2.7fdr. I am using the speed passion 21.5R. Do you think I can fit an MMM sensor board ( red) so I can set timing more? This way will I have a hot motor result?

Please help.

Mopar

The red board is +10, green is +20, yellow is +30 and blue is +40. It all depends on what they allow and how fast you want to go. Each one sells for $20.99 direct from Speed Passion USA. You can also use different rotors that have different characteristics. More torque, more rpm and combos of both. Maybe try the silver w/ purple rotor, [Purple Ring (12.3MM Rotor - High power and high Speed type)
Suitable for 1/12 on road and 1/10 Off road.
Provide smooth power] decscription from their site.

Sonter

I know the difference between them. The only issue here is whether the motor will run hotter if I am under geared and with a red sensor. Does the performance increase?

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

anyone else notice that the rear end movement is limited when you start to adjust the side spring screws? or am i supposed to leave the screw fully engaged and turn the spring nut?

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I really HOPE you are talking about 2.7 final but not 2.2 final....2.2 final, you will buy alot of new 21.5 because you will fry them on each run.

To get to 2.76 final, you will need a 26T pinion, which is not possible....however, what I did is dremel the motor screw slot further so you can slide down the motor more toward the front...you might be able to squeeze in the 26.....I am running 24 and I have never use the full power.

And yes...you can use the MMM RED sensor board and you should swing it all the way to the right for max timing on that board. I am actually using the yellow board for more timing....

Another trick is...raise the rear axle a step higher, that rasied the SPUR gear taller and give you more room to fit a bigger pinion, whoever, you have to check and see your rear ride height is tall enough or not...