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Old 11-11-2013, 12:38 PM   #706
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Originally Posted by Ian_R View Post
I see that the reinforced parts are now available in the Worldwide warehouse; except for the front arms. Any idea when these will become available?

Also, would an F104 football fit the SP-1?
I think the arms are coming around 2 weeks...and F104 football does not fit SP1.
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:58 PM   #707
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Also, would an F104 football fit the SP-1?
Sadly no, and neither does the AE one.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:01 PM   #708
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Finally finished up my dedicated indoor carpet setup SP1 with mix of options that I can gather plus new options parts....using Tresrey option parts (just RED looks cool) with full SP1 aluminum options, carbon rear battery brace/side springs mount.....I flipped the front alum insert (white bar pointing inside) and it narrowed the front end from 185mm to 182mm (very close to F104 spec). Using 574/575 Pit Z combo mounting 574 outside face inward. Using full length lipo instead of shorty...it seems to work better then shorty on carpet. Using Rob King latest indoor carpet setup with 6.25mm right height front and 4mm right height rear with long shock setting...
Very nice! I can't wait for these option parts to hit the US!

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The flex of the arm might be the reason why the SP1 can turn to much smoother and tighter...I will test the hardened version and see the difference...
Sweet! I'd be curious to hear what you find out

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setting on outside holes, link pointing inward on the main chassis. (Toe in setting...)
I've been thinking of trying this.. were you able to run the parallel and inward settings back to back to compare?
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:32 AM   #709
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Very nice! I can't wait for these option parts to hit the US!

Sweet! I'd be curious to hear what you find out

I've been thinking of trying this.. were you able to run the parallel and inward settings back to back to compare?
Actually, I have never ran the link inline at all...never did. I do all the mod from Rob King and he said the link pointing inward (the bigger the angle the better) does help to turn in tighter and sharper, and exit faster.....so I have never try the stock setting....and with this carbon battery brace, I can mount the side springs on the most outside position...
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:31 AM   #710
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Actually, I have never ran the link inline at all...never did. I do all the mod from Rob King and he said the link pointing inward (the bigger the angle the better) does help to turn in tighter and sharper, and exit faster.....so I have never try the stock setting....and with this carbon battery brace, I can mount the side springs on the most outside position...
Sweet, I didn't realize the carbon brace had the extra spring holes, I'm so getting that too!

Dammit Solara, you're really bad for my wallet
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:15 AM   #711
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Sweet, I didn't realize the carbon brace had the extra spring holes, I'm so getting that too!

Dammit Solara, you're really bad for my wallet
If you look at your stock plastic one, it use the inner hole for the springs and the links....I mounted the link to the outside hole, but the side springs can only be used on the inside hole, so you must use a longer screws to mount the side springs deeper to the chassis...

With the optional carbon plate...it has the outside hole as well, so you can mount the link on the outside hole, as well as using the side springs above the link, kinda like the stock setup, but with a much wider dampering swing on the pod.

One issue.....you have to cut the body a little more in order to let that pod move without rubbing the body. It might not looks as good on the body but I still prefer the performance over the looks of the car...

And I don't believe our option parts will hurt your pocket book alot, that parts is only $10USD.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:13 PM   #712
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If you look at your stock plastic one, it use the inner hole for the springs and the links....I mounted the link to the outside hole, but the side springs can only be used on the inside hole, so you must use a longer screws to mount the side springs deeper to the chassis...
Right, I saw that in your original setup and that's what I was going to do. I'm actually using aluminum spacers to get the same spring height on both sides, and I'm using the Exotek side spring mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/f104-all...spring-mounts/

That combination is very solid and no guess work is needed. I was just going to use a longer screw with more spacers, but that optional carbon plate is as good as mine

Quote:
One issue.....you have to cut the body a little more in order to let that pod move without rubbing the body. It might not looks as good on the body but I still prefer the performance over the looks of the car...
That's ok, the rear bottom of my body is already cut out a lot for the pod, it still looks great. Plus, at speed, you can't really tell, since it's black on carbon fiber. I really need to take a picture of my chassis and body, maybe I'll do that tonight.

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And I don't believe our option parts will hurt your pocket book alot, that parts is only $10USD.
You're assuming I'm only getting that part... nope! There are a number of others I'll be forcing your coworkers to package up and send to me as soon as they're in stock
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:56 AM   #713
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Thomas Pumpler ETS Round 1 setup...he won the 1st round with this 3 days old car with stock parts....





+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


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Old 11-14-2013, 03:06 AM   #714
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Does anyone else use spacers below the steering rack and/or a servo saver? I've tried the same as Thomas to flatten out the steering arms but, as I'm using a servo saver with its pivot ball pointing rearwards the steering locks-up.

Also, I'm thinking of making a castor block from 3mm carbonfiber. Anyone else done this?
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Old 11-14-2013, 10:13 AM   #715
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Does anyone else use spacers below the steering rack and/or a servo saver? I've tried the same as Thomas to flatten out the steering arms but, as I'm using a servo saver with its pivot ball pointing rearwards the steering locks-up.

Also, I'm thinking of making a castor block from 3mm carbonfiber. Anyone else done this?
I don't have spacers under my steering rack, but I am using a Kimbrough servo saver with the stock links/rack. I actually have the ball stud pointing forward, as with a stock servo arm, so no lockup or any other alignment issues. All I did is mount my servo a little further back in between the servo plates, works great.
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:14 PM   #716
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Hello guys, I need some help with gearing. At my club we race 21.5 stock and they use 2.2 fdr.... The problem is that I cannot fit a bigger pinion than 25t with the 72t spur. Is there a solution for this? I know I can change the spur with a smaller one but at the moment I don't have it and I can't find to buy locally. I need this for Sunday so I better find a solution how to make it faster with a 2.7fdr. I am using the speed passion 21.5R. Do you think I can fit an MMM sensor board ( red) so I can set timing more? This way will I have a hot motor result?

Please help.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:21 AM   #717
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Hello guys, I need some help with gearing. At my club we race 21.5 stock and they use 2.2 fdr.... The problem is that I cannot fit a bigger pinion than 25t with the 72t spur. Is there a solution for this? I know I can change the spur with a smaller one but at the moment I don't have it and I can't find to buy locally. I need this for Sunday so I better find a solution how to make it faster with a 2.7fdr. I am using the speed passion 21.5R. Do you think I can fit an MMM sensor board ( red) so I can set timing more? This way will I have a hot motor result?

Please help.
The red board is +10, green is +20, yellow is +30 and blue is +40. It all depends on what they allow and how fast you want to go. Each one sells for $20.99 direct from Speed Passion USA. You can also use different rotors that have different characteristics. More torque, more rpm and combos of both. Maybe try the silver w/ purple rotor, [Purple Ring (12.3MM Rotor - High power and high Speed type)
Suitable for 1/12 on road and 1/10 Off road.
Provide smooth power] decscription from their site.
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:20 AM   #718
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I know the difference between them. The only issue here is whether the motor will run hotter if I am under geared and with a red sensor. Does the performance increase?
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:12 AM   #719
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anyone else notice that the rear end movement is limited when you start to adjust the side spring screws? or am i supposed to leave the screw fully engaged and turn the spring nut?
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:53 AM   #720
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Originally Posted by Sonter View Post
Hello guys, I need some help with gearing. At my club we race 21.5 stock and they use 2.2 fdr.... The problem is that I cannot fit a bigger pinion than 25t with the 72t spur. Is there a solution for this? I know I can change the spur with a smaller one but at the moment I don't have it and I can't find to buy locally. I need this for Sunday so I better find a solution how to make it faster with a 2.7fdr. I am using the speed passion 21.5R. Do you think I can fit an MMM sensor board ( red) so I can set timing more? This way will I have a hot motor result?

Please help.
I really HOPE you are talking about 2.7 final but not 2.2 final....2.2 final, you will buy alot of new 21.5 because you will fry them on each run.

To get to 2.76 final, you will need a 26T pinion, which is not possible....however, what I did is dremel the motor screw slot further so you can slide down the motor more toward the front...you might be able to squeeze in the 26.....I am running 24 and I have never use the full power.

And yes...you can use the MMM RED sensor board and you should swing it all the way to the right for max timing on that board. I am actually using the yellow board for more timing....

Another trick is...raise the rear axle a step higher, that rasied the SPUR gear taller and give you more room to fit a bigger pinion, whoever, you have to check and see your rear ride height is tall enough or not...
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