Corally Owners Club v1.*
#1156
I believe that Simmo had a 4th place finish in the A3 main.
Jeff Antle
Team Corally U.S.A.
Jeff Antle
Team Corally U.S.A.
#1157
All,
As I understood correctly, both Ahonemies were testing the same proto's in Danmark.
Corally is still working on new proto-parts. They could not finish them in time for Danmark.
Trying to make the cars go better and better! > > best
Pizza
As I understood correctly, both Ahonemies were testing the same proto's in Danmark.
Corally is still working on new proto-parts. They could not finish them in time for Danmark.
Trying to make the cars go better and better! > > best
Pizza
#1158
for JANTLE
JANTLE,
Is there a carbon woven chasis for the C4? (not the 4.1)
What is the contact no. to order spare parts from the USA.
Do u ship overseas, accept creditcard payments?
JPN
Is there a carbon woven chasis for the C4? (not the 4.1)
What is the contact no. to order spare parts from the USA.
Do u ship overseas, accept creditcard payments?
JPN
#1159
Tech Rookie
FOR JANTLE
JANTLE
FURTHER TO MY QUESTION ABOUT SETUP IN STOCK?
i'M RUNNING ON YOKOMO ZR138G2 BELTEC SLICK OR THE KIT TYERS?
ANY HELP WITH THIS WOULD BE GREAT!!
CRAIG
FURTHER TO MY QUESTION ABOUT SETUP IN STOCK?
i'M RUNNING ON YOKOMO ZR138G2 BELTEC SLICK OR THE KIT TYERS?
ANY HELP WITH THIS WOULD BE GREAT!!
CRAIG
#1160
Tech Rookie
4 JANTLE
RUNNING ON 5MM ASPHALT 1/8 GAS TRACK
CRAIG
CRAIG
#1161
C4 AGLI - C4.1
I just wana know if its possible to install the C4.1 chassis
to my C4 AGLI. Will the bulkheads fit in the chassis holes
provided by the C4.1 chassis or do i have to buy the entire
conversion kit. I am on a budget thats why I just want
the chassis only but if it does fit I have no choice cause
I cant find a C4 AGLI to purchase on the Corally USA website.
Pls. advise ASAP
to my C4 AGLI. Will the bulkheads fit in the chassis holes
provided by the C4.1 chassis or do i have to buy the entire
conversion kit. I am on a budget thats why I just want
the chassis only but if it does fit I have no choice cause
I cant find a C4 AGLI to purchase on the Corally USA website.
Pls. advise ASAP
#1162
HAPPYG......... Try Sakke's set up posted on the Corally site for the Euro's at Heemstede. There are a few changes that you might want to try to get it to not oversteer into the corner since you will not have as much speed going in. Therefore you will need a little less grip on the front end. Two things that you will have to play with for your track are 1. Try a heavier spring on the front shocks.( this will keep the weight from transfering to the front giving you less steering going in) 2. Change the front internal shock position to the 3 hole position or go to a thicker oil in the front shocks. (This will slow down the weight transfer to the front wheels giving you a little less steering going in but keep a little more through the center of the corner) If the car feels sluggish in the corners or does not change direction quickly then you can also try going to stiffer springs on all four corners of the car. I personaly use the Associated springs on my C4.1 since there are more tuning options with those springs than the ones that come with the kit. Every track is diffrent so you will have to adjust the car from there to your driving style, track temp. and make-up. BTW I would try using the Yokomo tires first.
Hope this helps!!!!!
JPN...... You will need to go with the full conversion kit to use the C4.1 bottom deck. I know that this is against your buget at this time but it is the only way.
Jeff Antle
Team Corally U.S.A.
Hope this helps!!!!!
JPN...... You will need to go with the full conversion kit to use the C4.1 bottom deck. I know that this is against your buget at this time but it is the only way.
Jeff Antle
Team Corally U.S.A.
#1163
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Jeff,
shoot me an e-mail please!!! I got our whole track talking about and all fired up to try the Jack the gripper. I would say that the NORCAR club for sure is going to the Jack the Gripper!!! Everyone wants to try it!!!! Its awesome!!!
Ray Huang
[email protected]
shoot me an e-mail please!!! I got our whole track talking about and all fired up to try the Jack the gripper. I would say that the NORCAR club for sure is going to the Jack the Gripper!!! Everyone wants to try it!!!! Its awesome!!!
Ray Huang
[email protected]
#1164
JANTLE
Hi I just calld Corally USA and orderd the C4.1 conversion.
I was give a good price. Cant wait for it to get here. I had it
FEDEX. Thanks for the info.
jpn
I was give a good price. Cant wait for it to get here. I had it
FEDEX. Thanks for the info.
jpn
#1165
While we all wait for the impending event horizon, I have found a very cool little thing that you can do to modify the 4.1 weight distribution and wheelbase to achieve more on power and high speed steering. Don't know about others but I usually find I get too much of an understeer characteristic in these situations.
I sliced about 5 or 6 mm off the back of the FRONT arms (top and bottom) where the hinge pin runs, and if cut carefully use this piece as the spacer at the front of the arms. Otherwise use castor spacers.
The catch with this is that the right arm droop tab now hits the pulley and needs to be removed, meaning that the droop must be set some other way. I am using Tamiya threaded shocks on my car and hence simply put thin nylon spacers inside the shocks to get the correct droop, making sure the shock lengths are identical. A bit more time consuming to adjust, stiff! Using the original Serpent shocks this cannot be done without losing the adjustability so I'll leave that problem up to you!
What this achieves is a very close to 50% weight distribution fore/aft and as a nice bonus a shorter wheel base. (NOTE: I run the rear arms very close to standard position when coupled with this front end mod. I reckon moving the rear arms forward is a bad idea as this moves the weight distribution backwards relative to the wheels causing more high speed understeer and mid corner oversteer.
A couple of other people have also tried this mod and have like the results, just make sure that you can get new front arms if you dont like it as the droop tab removal is kinda terminal!
A couple of other things I have been playing with is raising the rear roll centre and lowering the front one so they are both about 3mm off the ground when the car is stationary at 5mm ride height. This involves custom parts and much dremeling but I found that this too increases on power and high speed steering and with 0.5 degree antisquat makes the change of direction faster. I wouldn't recommend this unless you are as insane as me but thought you would like this information anyway!!
What I would recommend, which doesn't involves mods, is raising the rear roll centre as much as possible by changing the angle of the top turnbuckle.
Some food for thought....mmm YuM Food, must go eat.
I sliced about 5 or 6 mm off the back of the FRONT arms (top and bottom) where the hinge pin runs, and if cut carefully use this piece as the spacer at the front of the arms. Otherwise use castor spacers.
The catch with this is that the right arm droop tab now hits the pulley and needs to be removed, meaning that the droop must be set some other way. I am using Tamiya threaded shocks on my car and hence simply put thin nylon spacers inside the shocks to get the correct droop, making sure the shock lengths are identical. A bit more time consuming to adjust, stiff! Using the original Serpent shocks this cannot be done without losing the adjustability so I'll leave that problem up to you!
What this achieves is a very close to 50% weight distribution fore/aft and as a nice bonus a shorter wheel base. (NOTE: I run the rear arms very close to standard position when coupled with this front end mod. I reckon moving the rear arms forward is a bad idea as this moves the weight distribution backwards relative to the wheels causing more high speed understeer and mid corner oversteer.
A couple of other people have also tried this mod and have like the results, just make sure that you can get new front arms if you dont like it as the droop tab removal is kinda terminal!
A couple of other things I have been playing with is raising the rear roll centre and lowering the front one so they are both about 3mm off the ground when the car is stationary at 5mm ride height. This involves custom parts and much dremeling but I found that this too increases on power and high speed steering and with 0.5 degree antisquat makes the change of direction faster. I wouldn't recommend this unless you are as insane as me but thought you would like this information anyway!!
What I would recommend, which doesn't involves mods, is raising the rear roll centre as much as possible by changing the angle of the top turnbuckle.
Some food for thought....mmm YuM Food, must go eat.
#1166
GOOD STUFF Cookie!!!!!!! Yes I am insane also. I will give your set-up a try once the weather turns here. I am racing inside on carpet right now and I don't need any more steering as our track has very high bite and we also run foam tires. I think your set-up will work great outside!
Thanks,
Jeff Antle
Team Corally U.S.A.
Thanks,
Jeff Antle
Team Corally U.S.A.
#1167
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Hey Cookie,
If you get a chance could you post some pictures of your mods on your website. I am also interested in your roll center mods. The cutting of the lower front arm was something that I was looking into but I never got around to it, I would like to see what you did to your car if possible.
Thanks,
Steve
If you get a chance could you post some pictures of your mods on your website. I am also interested in your roll center mods. The cutting of the lower front arm was something that I was looking into but I never got around to it, I would like to see what you did to your car if possible.
Thanks,
Steve
#1168
OK, I'll put some up soon and then post on the URL here to my site.
Also I just got back from the Summer Nats held in Sydney on the weekend.
It was a great weekend for Corally and myself!
I TQ'd and finished second in 4 cell 1/12 scale with another Corally winning (great racing Ari).
Then in Touring Mod I qualified third and won all three A finals. Ari TQ'd but it all went wrong for him in the finals.
The temperature in the pits, in the shade, reached 47.5 degrees celcius during the arvo!
HOT DAMN HOT!!!
Also I just got back from the Summer Nats held in Sydney on the weekend.
It was a great weekend for Corally and myself!
I TQ'd and finished second in 4 cell 1/12 scale with another Corally winning (great racing Ari).
Then in Touring Mod I qualified third and won all three A finals. Ari TQ'd but it all went wrong for him in the finals.
The temperature in the pits, in the shade, reached 47.5 degrees celcius during the arvo!
HOT DAMN HOT!!!
#1169
Cookie there is a pic of you car here too: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...0&pagenumber=8
Congrats on your win! i was over the moon just too make the A's, i used all my resources to make it, and for once it all went right for me
Congrats on your win! i was over the moon just too make the A's, i used all my resources to make it, and for once it all went right for me
Last edited by black-knight; 01-28-2003 at 01:18 AM.
#1170
yeah it was way to hot out there
my speedy craped itself but i think i can fix it with a clean and resolder replacing the power cap and diods and stuff
this was a common in the heat and i think this is what stop Ari in the finals
Good work cookie
thats some awsome driving by all in the mod a final well done
my speedy craped itself but i think i can fix it with a clean and resolder replacing the power cap and diods and stuff
this was a common in the heat and i think this is what stop Ari in the finals
Good work cookie
thats some awsome driving by all in the mod a final well done