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iTrader: (12)

CSO New upper Deck Post

Skiddins

Grips pretty good at WLRC until the track gets too hot.
I never run more than 3deg rear toe at Aldershot.
Try removing the rear two screws in the layshaft mounts instead.

Skiddins

chasingthepack

i was reluctant to go less on the rear toe,whenever i look at matt q or kierans car they have thicker shims to indicate 3.5 or more unless their widening the whole rear end,they are the most secretive there too,matts quite helpfull,i just want to find that last .5 sec a lap to be in with a chance at the front,it just hasnt clicked for me yet,i havent raced for 3 weeks so really looking to get the job done soon,i just got the car to where i was very consistent low 14's and then it warmed up and im back to square one,chasing the pack,lol

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Something interesting going with the motor mount area there.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Thats the option split motor mount that we have tested since the T4 came out. Its just split evenly for both sides of the car for more flex. No one has ever decided if its better or not.

EA

Andrew S

iTrader: (3)

I read one of the xray drivers saying that if your car starts good but gets worse towards the end of the heat, and everything is set good, then you need slightly thicker shock oil.
If it starts bad then gets better, then it's slightly to thin.
This is when comparing two cars where everything else is the same.

Can't remember where I saw it, but it was recently.

eded1

Sorry guy's I am the one who have ask for this shape of layshaft bulkheads on the Xray forum.
The reason is like Skiddins metioned that the car produced more grip out of the corners due to better flex (more rubber contact)=more traction=more acceleration.
This type of flex after removing the layshaft bulkheads screws on the topdeck
it gives the yokomo flex type to give more corner speed on carpet tracks.
on asphalt tracks it give not always better results.
And for removing the spurgear compared to the Xray 2012 it is only one screw
extra to be removed as Skiddins mentioned.

Thanks

Ed

reg

Hi Colin,

great to hear you like the car.

Thanks for letting us know about the mistake, we will fix it.

I use standard 4 holes 1.1 pistons as we recommend in the kit. This is the best compromise of steering and traction. Well in 99% we do not change pistons, only oil. For low traction we recommend 350 shock oil. When the traction increases, you put harder oil. But for example at the ETS last weekend was super high traction and we stayed with the kit shock setting and car was working well. But there is easy recognition when you need harder oil. When you start your run and you make good lap times and in the second half of the run, your car slows down as it is more difficult to drive and start to stop in the corners, than you over-heat the tires and you need harder oil. When you are slower at the beginning because you have not enough traction and you get faster later on, you need softer oil. But in both cases you do not need to change pistons.

Martin

tc3team

A question for the UK guys who run the t4

I have looked through the manual re, diff building and the filling with oil is very accurate about how much oil/weight of the diff should be.

I don't want to buy the hudy scales so where could I buy some digital scales that measure in .1g increments?

I looked in Robert dyas yesterday but their most accurate scales only went to the nearest gram?

Where did you guys get your scales from?

Ty

Skiddins

I got some crap jewellers scales off Ebay, but you could always just judge it by the pics in the manual

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

+1 what Skid said, the ebay scales are not half bad, from memory I got four of them for around $30, use them as corner weight scales, but generally they are handy to have around or in a pit bag.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I was able to get a scale that goes up to 2000 grams in .1 increments on Amazon for about ~$15 each. Decided to buy another 3 so I can corner weight my cars. It is pretty useful.

tc3team

Ok, thanks for that, I'll see what I can find.

I only need them to build the diffs, then I doubt I'd use them again.

shrek54

A handy thing to do is weigh the diff after building, so that you can at any time weigh the diff again to see if you have lost any oil

chasingthepack

go to a local head shop,these are the people selling drug related things like bongs and papers