wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Yes 4mm works. It's a bit loose but will get the job done and is what I use. 5/32 is the proper size.

Josh Keller

iTrader: (37)

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Arboleda

iTrader: (15)

Deleted, wrong forum...

jannedwr

Hi! Just ordered a CRC Xti wc. Will go thru this thread, but trying a shortcut by asking here first.
I have a Xray x12 now, and know some about 1/12Žs.
Most cars have there own tricks, so how about this one, is there any known "tricks" to it.
About screws, it looks like all countersinks are steel, is there a kit of titaniums or do i have to buy all separate?
Seen some guys using other brands rearaxle/diff?
How about setting, iŽm new to the class and we run on a midsize to tight mediumgrip track, is the stock (building) setup ok?
Thanks!

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

The stock setup on the WC car is just fine. There is one tiny omission in the instruction sheets however. The encore shock comes with 2 o-rings. One goes in the obvious place to seal in the oil. The other one goes on the shock shaft and acts as an internal spacer and cushion so that under full extension, the shock piston lands on the soft oring insead of bottoming out on the hard bottom of the shock body. Aside from that one little thing that is not explained in the manual......your car should work great if you build it 100% per the instructions. Tire size and choice and how you sauce your tires are perhaps the most important things to "tune" the car to your personal driving preference. While maybe not the absolute fastest, black fronts with grey or greylo rears are usually a good solid and easy to drive tire selection. Those work best on my home track since we tend to get some fuzz pickup and that family of tires is less prone to grabbing fuzz off the track. But if you want every last ounce of performance, you may want to try some blu or double blu fronts in combo with either blu or greene rears. Happy motoring.

jannedwr

Ok! Thanks for advice!
We are running doubble pink front 43mm and green rear 44mm and that feels ok, but on the otherhand i havent tryed else! How about sause, our advice is "Spider" green, since that is better to the foam?, and how long before driving is good?

biz77

iTrader: (47)

Not sure what the minimum weight rules are in Sweden, but keep in mind the XTi WC isn't an Xray, meaning it's quite light using the kit parts. Depending on which electronics, body and tires you go with, you may find you need to add weight to be legal.

jannedwr

Was just thinkin that! We have i guess the same 730g incl transponder. So if the car is that light there is good to have the weight down low, right?

dumper

iTrader: (1)

Correct. We all use the stock steel screws as they get the weight low. Depending on what electronics you use, you will have to add weight to get to the 730 gram minimum. I would recommend using the same tires you have been as well as the same additive. If you are on ETS style carpet, I liked the Spider "blue" (I think that is what it was) when I was at the Hudy Arena for the Euro's this past spring.

No one that I know of changes the rear axle in our cars. Our diff is super light and easy to make smooth.

The stock setup works just about everywhere. Probably start with 10k in the tubes.

Get yourself a quality 1/16" hex wrench and a good 3/16" nut driver.

Brian Wynn

Team CRC

jannedwr

Ok, thanks for those positive words! Really looking in to building and start driving this car!
Is there some special things to get as spare and options?

biz77

iTrader: (47)

The only items I've ever broken on my CRC cars (I've owned the Xi, XTi and XTi WC) are the steering blocks and side links. You will also want to keep a spare center pivot around, as they wear they develop slop and allow the pod to move up and down.

jannedwr

Ok, iŽll order those parts then! Thanks!

jannedwr

Why is there, Reinard had the TRF Tamiya logo on the previous world's?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

What configuration are people running this car in? Have we all switched to Altered Ego and the transverse layout or do you still have success with an inline car?

I ask because on high grip my transverse car tends to lift the inside rear tire, and running inline and getting that weight forward in the car seems to be the only fix I can think of.

jannedwr

Have started building the car with a couple of issues. When putting in the small steel balls for side damper rods one snapped because of too tight hole. Then the 3 supplied caster uprights there was 3 zero degree, 1 five degree and two 10degree. The manual says to use five degrees as stock. Well well have to start with either 0 or 10? I have emailed crc with pictures and waiting for reply!