Hot Bodies TCXX
#346
Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice. I have just built my new TCXX and there is a clicking from the front spool when checking the drive train. I have checked all the obvious things such as bearings, catching points but can't track down what is causing it? It's not spool chatter as it does it with just the spool in the bulk heads and no drive shafts connected?
It seems to happen only with the steel outdrives, the POM are super smooth with no clicks. From what I can see it seems to click when the outdrive slot passes from horizontal to vertical if you see what I mean.
Has anyone had this problem and know the cure? It surely can't be right?
It seems to happen only with the steel outdrives, the POM are super smooth with no clicks. From what I can see it seems to click when the outdrive slot passes from horizontal to vertical if you see what I mean.
Has anyone had this problem and know the cure? It surely can't be right?
#347
Tech Regular
Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice. I have just built my new TCXX and there is a clicking from the front spool when checking the drive train. I have checked all the obvious things such as bearings, catching points but can't track down what is causing it? It's not spool chatter as it does it with just the spool in the bulk heads and no drive shafts connected?
It seems to happen only with the steel outdrives, the POM are super smooth with no clicks. From what I can see it seems to click when the outdrive slot passes from horizontal to vertical if you see what I mean.
Has anyone had this problem and know the cure? It surely can't be right?
It seems to happen only with the steel outdrives, the POM are super smooth with no clicks. From what I can see it seems to click when the outdrive slot passes from horizontal to vertical if you see what I mean.
Has anyone had this problem and know the cure? It surely can't be right?
#348
The metal out drives have a definite rise and fall as they rotate, like they aren't true.
#349
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
It's not that they aren't true. If you take the spool out of your car you will notice that the out drives move freely around. It was purposely designed that way to reduce chatter which is a issue with every car on the market that uses standard driveshafts with a spool. If the spool cups were tight then the chatter from the rotating motion would be more apparent. So have the cups loose helps to dissipate the energy.
#350
Tech Initiate
Hello, this is my first touring car and I'm actually completely new to the hobby for all intents and purposes, so please bear with me.
I'm still building my TCXX and I just got to step E02 and everything is fine other than the fact that I cannot find part HB70742, the aluminum hex hubs. I've looked in every bag and I'm almost 100% sure that my kit is missing them. Are they buried in some tiny bag containing parts for a later step and am I just not seeing them?
If they are indeed missing should I call HPI's customer service?
Thanks.
I'm still building my TCXX and I just got to step E02 and everything is fine other than the fact that I cannot find part HB70742, the aluminum hex hubs. I've looked in every bag and I'm almost 100% sure that my kit is missing them. Are they buried in some tiny bag containing parts for a later step and am I just not seeing them?
If they are indeed missing should I call HPI's customer service?
Thanks.
#351
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Hello, this is my first touring car and I'm actually completely new to the hobby for all intents and purposes, so please bear with me.
I'm still building my TCXX and I just got to step E02 and everything is fine other than the fact that I cannot find part HB70742, the aluminum hex hubs. I've looked in every bag and I'm almost 100% sure that my kit is missing them. Are they buried in some tiny bag containing parts for a later step and am I just not seeing them?
If they are indeed missing should I call HPI's customer service?
Thanks.
I'm still building my TCXX and I just got to step E02 and everything is fine other than the fact that I cannot find part HB70742, the aluminum hex hubs. I've looked in every bag and I'm almost 100% sure that my kit is missing them. Are they buried in some tiny bag containing parts for a later step and am I just not seeing them?
If they are indeed missing should I call HPI's customer service?
Thanks.
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#352
Tech Initiate
Thanks Fred! Much appreciated. BTW we've talked very briefly at TQracing in Chino, Ca.
I asked if your car was a TCXX and I asked why people seemed to use the dish wheels instead of spoked, lol.
I asked if your car was a TCXX and I asked why people seemed to use the dish wheels instead of spoked, lol.
#354
Tech Initiate
Lol, awesome. I plan on getting out there as soon as I finish building my TCXX. People that frequent TQ racing all seem to be friendly and helpful. It's really helped me to get comfortable with the hobby thus far.
Hopefully I don't embarrass myself too much on the track, lol.
Thanks again Fred.
Hopefully I don't embarrass myself too much on the track, lol.
Thanks again Fred.
#355
It's not that they aren't true. If you take the spool out of your car you will notice that the out drives move freely around. It was purposely designed that way to reduce chatter which is a issue with every car on the market that uses standard driveshafts with a spool. If the spool cups were tight then the chatter from the rotating motion would be more apparent. So have the cups loose helps to dissipate the energy.
#356
Another few quick questions.
What is the effect of adding washers under the sway bar mounting ball studs? and why are there wider sway bars included in the box?
Also what effect does adding washers under the front steering knuckle ball studs have?
Finally I notice most team drivers run 2mm behind the wheel hub on the back and 2mm in front of the wishbone on the front. The wheelbase remains the same but everything is shifted back. What is the reason for this?
Thanks.
What is the effect of adding washers under the sway bar mounting ball studs? and why are there wider sway bars included in the box?
Also what effect does adding washers under the front steering knuckle ball studs have?
Finally I notice most team drivers run 2mm behind the wheel hub on the back and 2mm in front of the wishbone on the front. The wheelbase remains the same but everything is shifted back. What is the reason for this?
Thanks.
Last edited by dvaid852456; 10-21-2012 at 01:46 AM.
#357
Tech Initiate
Total noobie question. I'm still building my TCXX and I've gotten to the step where you put together the turnbuckles. How long should I make them initially?
#358
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Personally I set them long. I then install them on the car then once I have the tires on or the car hooked up to my setup station I then set them so they are at the desired length for camber, toe, and to center steering. With toe aka for the turnbuckles for your steering just make sure they are equal length.
#359
Tech Initiate
More noob questions.
The manual asks for the 1.4 mm sway bar in the front, but the standard set up sheet in the back of the manual calls for 1.2. Should I go with the manual or the set up sheet?
Also the hotbodies expert build tips suggest you take 5mm off the end of the sway bar. Why is this? Wouldn't this change the ultimate length of the sway bar and thus defeat the purpose of it?... or is the thickness of the sway bar what determines its effectiveness?
One more noob question...sorry.
How much shock oil should I put in the shocks? How far up should I fill the shock body?
The manual asks for the 1.4 mm sway bar in the front, but the standard set up sheet in the back of the manual calls for 1.2. Should I go with the manual or the set up sheet?
Also the hotbodies expert build tips suggest you take 5mm off the end of the sway bar. Why is this? Wouldn't this change the ultimate length of the sway bar and thus defeat the purpose of it?... or is the thickness of the sway bar what determines its effectiveness?
One more noob question...sorry.
How much shock oil should I put in the shocks? How far up should I fill the shock body?
Last edited by Yukie; 10-21-2012 at 12:28 PM.
#360
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
More noob questions.
The manual asks for the 1.4 mm sway bar in the front, but the standard set up sheet in the back of the manual calls for 1.2. Should I go with the manual or the set up sheet?
Also the hotbodies expert build tips suggest you take 5mm off the end of the sway bar. Why is this? Wouldn't this change the ultimate length of the sway bar and thus defeat the purpose of it?... or is the thickness of the sway bar what determines its effectiveness?
The manual asks for the 1.4 mm sway bar in the front, but the standard set up sheet in the back of the manual calls for 1.2. Should I go with the manual or the set up sheet?
Also the hotbodies expert build tips suggest you take 5mm off the end of the sway bar. Why is this? Wouldn't this change the ultimate length of the sway bar and thus defeat the purpose of it?... or is the thickness of the sway bar what determines its effectiveness?
Try to install the sway without taking of the 5mm.