Caseymacgyver

Yep, that's what I did, but I ended up switching the balls in the bottom holes in the knuckle. This effectively sets the KPI to the same angle as an inside-->outside setup with the MST knuckle (1 hole offset). I toned the KPI and caster down a bit not long after putting on the Alum. knuckles because it ate through the outside lip of the front tires in less than 2 packs. Wore through to the rim, with a ton of meat left in the middle. Of course, not an issue on carpet.

I also toned down the KPI using the bottom holes and leaving the adapter on the upper to move the steering axis inboard to be closer to the CVD pivot. Doing so eliminated all of the reverse-swing in the CVD joint, which translated directly to a 3-5* increase in usable steering angle. This was not a trivial improvement. Any amount of reverse swing is just throwing away hard-fought steering angle.

FWIW, my observations of tire wear on asphalt through various posican settings is that there appears to be some important significance in the ratio of KPI to Caster, even more so than the absolute angle values. This was very evident in how the inside and outside halves of the front tires wore. For example, with a 2-hole offset KPI and caster around 25*, the outside edge quickly wore through to the rim, while the inside half was rounded with a large radius. Same KPI offset, with caster around 20*, the outside half started rounding out and the inside half to a somewhat smaller radius. Very distinct part line between halves though. More like a V. With a 1-hole KPI offset and caster around 20*, the inside and outside halves were symmetrical, with a nearly constant radius across the tire width. Ackerman and asymmetry in the front horizontal shock linkages also had a definitive effect, particularly on the inside edge of the leading wheel near lock.

I don't know how much this translates to carpet. Obviously not the wear aspect, but the fact that these settings and tire shapes provide an additional level of control over the contact patches for the leading front and trailing front wheels during a drift, altering their respective influences. It provides a means to create a widely ranged traction profile for each front wheel, not only useful at inside lock and outside lock, but everything in between, in a smooth and contiguous manner.

From the picture, the springs look like they came from the same machine shop as the RC926 ones. Identical box and color chart. I'm interested to see how the fitment compares, as mine left a bit to be desired.

Interested in radiused front tire options too.

I can see that for adapting a typical 5mm axle shaft to the MST knuckle. I'd work towards getting something with the hex pins back in there. They don't just keep the wheels from spinning, but also from pinching the bearings too tight.

The MST axles fit their knuckles so damn perfectly, I can't image using anything else in there, at least not long term. The bell of the axle side of the CVD sits directly inside the 10x15mm bearing, just deep enough to keep the spider pin trapped, same as you described. I'm running mine with the Square dog bones, and the set screws removed. I haven't worn through a set yet, but I'm speculating that allowing the pin to rotate freely will even out the wear and hopefully extend the life of the pin and CVD holes.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Here's my report:
Secondary impressions are excellent...much better...big improvement and am truly thrilled of the difference the posican setup has done to the chassis and those Kikaku springs does wonders!!! I think specially the super sorts which absorb a lot of the bumps and transitions in between plywood sheets of the carpeted drift track. It has given me a great piece of mind and knowing that the expense I have spent to go ahead and jump in to do the posican setup was completely worth it.

http://rc-art.net/product_eng/4562197920968
These are the Mikuni Factory drift tire hard which I used with great success on my chassis with T Drifts for the rears for carpet drift track. The tires are radiused without any flat spots. I am extremely happy with them as well..no visible wear after a battery pack on carpet of approximately an hour run time.

So, it looks like I'll have to readjust my KPI and caster settings and revisit that. I'm particularly curious to get rid of the reverse swing and thought about the drilling of the arm and ball end (like in the Gold Yokomo) to offset it towards the front to keep it all inline without any reverse swing as I'm sure that puts a lot of stress on the axles and FOW as well. Or maybe moving the adjustable lower front arms to go forward by a couple of mm again to try to keep the CVD without any reverse swing.
I also need to use red thread lock on the standoff for the lower arm. I almost destroyed the arm last night as I got shorter standoffs (shorter length) but since I had used thread lock before...stripped the screw trying to remove it. I eventually got it freed up but almost broke the arm and ruined the old standoffs.

I have not tried the other knuckles I acquired yet..so still the MST knuckles and R31 Eagle Racing CVDs.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Here's the new standoff


Mikuni drift tires front (radiused)


The old hex standoff

FoiVoS_

Nice work eunique . Well, the only way to adjust the ride-height is by changing the preload to the spring ? Because if i buy stiffer springs i think that if i change the preload so that the car can lower they will be the same as the stock ones right ?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Yes, adjusting the collars on the threaded body of the shock will allow you to set your ride height. And change characteristics of spring slightly due to preload...that's why you want to get the optional springs and be able to fine tune your suspension by changing the springs and adjusting the collars. It's usually a longer process...but I used the same as Pickled had already tested out and used the blue and purple D3 springs prior to the posican setup.

FoiVoS_

You mean the ball caps on the oil shock ?
And also today i am buying the One way do i need to buy any product to keep it running in a good condition ?

spring71

iTrader: (3)

Some D3 hopup parts are back in stock.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...id=56&s_sort=4


FYI, Thanks.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

U don't need anything for the FOW. However, I would suggest the UWA Universals and the aluminum steering arms like tqrcracing pic above^

What ball caps? I mean the collars around the shock body...those are the ones you adjust.

Here's pics after i readjusted the pick up points on the Knuckles

FoiVoS_

I bought the UWA the aluminum steering the FOW some spacers and 4mm wheel adaptors
For the Shocks . The collars around the shock body are to adjust the preload of the spring right ? If i buy stiffer springs and adjust the preload so the ride height can be lowered then doesnt that mean that the stiffness of the spring will be the same as the stock one or not ? I mean that to get the chassis lowered you need to make them softer and end up with the same stiffness as the stock ones right ?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Don't think the equation translates to quite the same. The different springs have different thickness diameters and also vary in number of coils. With stock springs, you almost have to screw the collars all the way down toi achieve the appropriate ride height. But the different springs will allow u to fine tune your ride regardless of the ride height you end up at. So don't worry too much about screwing down the collars

Here's my new Yokomo 12º hubs with KPI and Eag le racing wide angle CVD 44mm with set screw

K!NCH

So much angle....

FoiVoS_

Guys i got a litle bit confused with the springs . I am trying to understand the effects of changing them in theory . If you softening the springs in front means more weight in the front right and if you make the stiffer more weight in the rear ? Could someone explain me or give me a link on where they talk about that ?

Killjoy

Hi guys,

Would anyone of you guys happen to know of a compatible front belt for the D3 from other manufacturer like HPI, Tamiya or Losi? It's just cos my kit came with 2 rear belts and its a long trip for me to get a replacement. Really long drive. LOL.

Thanks.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I am not good at the technical stuff...a lot come from reading and researching info that is available...plus some trial and error and practicing and compensating throug uhh practicing. Drifting didn't come easy to me and I had to do a lot of practice.

Here are some links that might help
http://www.drccentral.com/old/rc-drift-setup.html
http://forum.driftmission.com/Thread...ing-101?page=6
http://csjunkies.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=152

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Here's a guide
http://driftmission.com/guides/belts-guide/