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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 03-10-2008, 08:54 PM
  #11281  
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what part of the diff screw did you break? how did it break? Were you using the 25mm Pro4/cyclone diff screw or the 27mm WCE screw?
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:54 PM
  #11282  
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
I think you guys should try the Titanium coated WC diff screw/t-nut. Its like $6 and it works really well for me. I only race 13.5 but my diffs last a long time and I have yet to rebuild any of my diffs, with 5 club races on them!

The Edit Ti diff screw is pretty easily accesible but very expensive! The TC5 screw is easy to get and very cheap, does it fit in the stock outdrives without drilling?
Thats what i was running it comes with the Moore speed WC broke in half
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:57 PM
  #11283  
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But like i said the guys i know of that broke the screw told me about the TC5 and we all use it and no problems i have 20 runs on it so far
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:58 PM
  #11284  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
Yeah, im not planning on them at all, but for when I need some new out drives, I will




That is insane!



I race 10.5, im no expert lol, but I dont break diff screws that much either, and I crash alot..... I broke alot of them when I raced 13.5 though
with the Reedy race in our back yard...you are about to see this car pushed to the limits. Scotty and I will be testing any and everything. If it's weak it will show. If it can't handles speed it will be thrown.....LOL You get my point. It's time to have some fun baby!!!!
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:58 PM
  #11285  
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Originally Posted by iceman76
Thats what i was running it comes with the Moore speed WC broke in half
Yup, the steel screw has more give then the TI one... The TI one is just a waist of a extra 5 bucks or whatever it is.. Only reason I have one in now is because when I went to buy a new one, all they had was TI at the time lol

But it was the WCE screw, I dont break them anymore, I have it sorted out, as said a properly built diff will be fine, when there built right, you dont have to tighten the diff much, and it doesnt slip, so its all good

I still cant build a diff perfect like the cyclone hot shot at my track, so he does it for me
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:00 PM
  #11286  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
with the Reedy race in our back yard...you are about to see this car pushed to the limits. Scotty and I will be testing any and everything. If it's weak it will show. If it can't handles speed it will be thrown.....LOL You get my point. It's time to have some fun baby!!!!
Haha, I will be there beating the crap out of my car, just with less motor with you guys! I dont want to win last, thats my goal LOL, so I need practice, and lots of driving help from your guys

Heck yeah man! It is for sure time for fun, a awesome way to start off a new race season with REEDY
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:00 PM
  #11287  
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Thats with a 10.5 FDR 4.38
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:01 PM
  #11288  
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Originally Posted by iceman76
Thats with a 10.5 FDR 4.38
Thats where im going to gear mine with out track extension... 4.4 is my starting point
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:26 PM
  #11289  
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wow! you broke the Ti screw in half? What are your tips on building the diff for no slip but still being silky smooth? How many turns out from fully compressed?
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:01 PM
  #11290  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
Thats where im going to gear mine with out track extension... 4.4 is my starting point
run your regular gearing first because my motor was still pulling Norcal and their straight was just like Speedworld but with a tru sweeper so it might fine where it is. Then again you might have to gear up
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:30 PM
  #11291  
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For you guys using AE screws and T nuts. You might want to check that the drive shaft doesn't bottom out on the T nut when the suspension is compressed. I had the problem with a used BMI car I bought. The seller complained that he could never get the car to handle well. No doubt....the right rear and left front of the car only had 1/2 travel before they started loading the drive shaft.

Does the TC5 t nut fit all the way into the drive cup...I've never tried it?

All this talk's got me worried about broken diff screws now!
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:48 PM
  #11292  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
run your regular gearing first because my motor was still pulling Norcal and their straight was just like Speedworld but with a tru sweeper so it might fine where it is. Then again you might have to gear up
My gearing now is 5.1 LOL! A flipping ant, I cant find my 47T pinion.... I need to buy a new one, and then the pulleys and belts (which BTW, why did you buy them? Billy said you did, I thought you didnt need them lol? JW)

I dont need to be harassed by you because my car is to slow down the back I will gear it up to atleast 4.6
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:53 PM
  #11293  
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Originally Posted by pcar951
For you guys using AE screws and T nuts. You might want to check that the drive shaft doesn't bottom out on the T nut when the suspension is compressed. I had the problem with a used BMI car I bought. The seller complained that he could never get the car to handle well. No doubt....the right rear and left front of the car only had 1/2 travel before they started loading the drive shaft.

Does the TC5 t nut fit all the way into the drive cup...I've never tried it?

All this talk's got me worried about broken diff screws now!
Wow! My BMI car has that same problem! Only with the right rear though. It almost makes it to fully compressed without binding! It doesnt make sense, how does it have anything to do with the BMi chassis though?
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:36 PM
  #11294  
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I broke one in my first qual using my 13.5 It drove through practice just fine, so i was pretty upset. Even worse, at the HPI Challenge in Corona, it survived the 10.5 absolutely fine too!

oh wellll
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Old 03-11-2008, 01:27 AM
  #11295  
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Does any one know if the 3 racing chassis fits the moorespeed wce cyclone

it says sport only, but i saw on a thread in another forum that it fits , but wanted to be sure
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