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Old 01-03-2006, 06:12 PM   #2236
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Is anyone else having good success with running a oneway on carpet in stock with foams? My Cyclone is pretty dialed with this setup with the one-way;
Front: 30lb springs, 50 wt. HPI oil, 2-hole pistons, 3rd hole in on tower, outside hole on arm, 3mm spacer under the upper inside link mounted in position #1, 2 degree front arm mount, no spacers under the mounting blocks, 1.5 - camber, arms all the way forward, 1.5mm up travel.
Rear: 28lb springs, 40 wt.HPI oil, 2-hole pistons, 2nd hole in on the tower, middle hole on the arm, 3mm spacer under the inside camber link mounted in position #1, 2.5 degree toe in, no spacers under the mounting blocks, arms all the way back, 1.5 - camber, 1mm up travel.
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Old 01-03-2006, 06:13 PM   #2237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookinco
Where can I find titanium screws? Is it a good idea to change to aluminum suspension parts?
for best CofG you should use ti screws only above the plane that is the top of the lower chassis. your lower screws should remain steel.
this applies only if you have a minimum weight, which your car is under, requiring you to add weight.

the steel screws that screw in from the bottom of the chassis are already lower than any weight you would add to your car.
for example if you managed to save 1/2 oz by converting the lower steel screws to Ti, you would have to add that 1/2oz on top of the chassis, thereby actually RAISING your CofG. tricky tricky
of course if you're stripping screws or something like that then goto Ti for durability.....durability trumps performance most of the time
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:41 PM   #2238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tandman
Is anyone else having good success with running a oneway on carpet in stock with foams? My Cyclone is pretty dialed with this setup with the one-way;
Front: 30lb springs, 50 wt. HPI oil, 2-hole pistons, 3rd hole in on tower, outside hole on arm, 3mm spacer under the upper inside link mounted in position #1, 2 degree front arm mount, no spacers under the mounting blocks, 1.5 - camber, arms all the way forward, 1.5mm up travel.
Rear: 28lb springs, 40 wt.HPI oil, 2-hole pistons, 2nd hole in on the tower, middle hole on the arm, 3mm spacer under the inside camber link mounted in position #1, 2.5 degree toe in, no spacers under the mounting blocks, arms all the way back, 1.5 - camber, 1mm up travel.
when i put the car on carpet few week bck i ran the one way and i was amazed how it felt to some one told me to put a 16 pulley on it and tke the one way out the shaft butit felt fine to me
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:46 PM   #2239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookinco
I guess it's in a way a good thing that the cyclone doesn't need much hop ups to run good.

What parts get broken easily? I want to stock up on those.
Hi,

i dont think theres anyting that breaks easily, just the obvious things to stock up on like any other car, hubs, wishbones etc


no hopups are needed really, the HPI purple alu shock collars are a good thing to have, not only for the nice colour but they are less lightly to spin around during a race than the kit ones other than that just tuning parts like the HPI spring set, some spacer sets (Jet Racing shim set and HPI piviot block set), and different degree piviot blocks and spool and locked pulley if you like to use that type of drive.

as well as the belt clearence issue punho reccomended there are a couple of other things to do when your building your cyclone, youll need to remove a little material from the front rear piviot block, this allows the toe links to move and not catch when you are using spacers under the block (first pic), also to allow easyer ackerman adjustment i removed the top of the inner toe link ballcups, so i can slide the wrench in from the front once the bumper is removed (second pic)

hope this helps you out

Stew
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-front-block.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-toe-links.jpg  
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:02 PM   #2240
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anyone have a good starting setup for 19t carpet running rubber tires CS-22 i am going to the magma race race in 2 1/2 weeks and i need a good starting point my club only runs foam so i dont know where to start any help would be great
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Old 01-03-2006, 08:57 PM   #2241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew Noble
Hi,

i dont think theres anyting that breaks easily, just the obvious things to stock up on like any other car, hubs, wishbones etc


no hopups are needed really, the HPI purple alu shock collars are a good thing to have, not only for the nice colour but they are less lightly to spin around during a race than the kit ones other than that just tuning parts like the HPI spring set, some spacer sets (Jet Racing shim set and HPI piviot block set), and different degree piviot blocks and spool and locked pulley if you like to use that type of drive.

as well as the belt clearence issue punho reccomended there are a couple of other things to do when your building your cyclone, youll need to remove a little material from the front rear piviot block, this allows the toe links to move and not catch when you are using spacers under the block (first pic), also to allow easyer ackerman adjustment i removed the top of the inner toe link ballcups, so i can slide the wrench in from the front once the bumper is removed (second pic)

hope this helps you out

Stew
I concur!

Andre
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:18 AM   #2242
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hitech redneck
its me alex reyna. im rc reyna. need paint rc body some day
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:49 AM   #2243
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this is hara's carpet setup, but it's for mod. i think it won't be much of a difference than 19t

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Set-ups/cycln_05IIC.pdf

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngo8
anyone have a good starting setup for 19t carpet running rubber tires CS-22 i am going to the magma race race in 2 1/2 weeks and i need a good starting point my club only runs foam so i dont know where to start any help would be great
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:16 PM   #2244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tandman
Is anyone else having good success with running a oneway on carpet in stock with foams? My Cyclone is pretty dialed with this setup with the one-way;
Front: 30lb springs, 50 wt. HPI oil, 2-hole pistons, 3rd hole in on tower, outside hole on arm, 3mm spacer under the upper inside link mounted in position #1, 2 degree front arm mount, no spacers under the mounting blocks, 1.5 - camber, arms all the way forward, 1.5mm up travel.
Rear: 28lb springs, 40 wt.HPI oil, 2-hole pistons, 2nd hole in on the tower, middle hole on the arm, 3mm spacer under the inside camber link mounted in position #1, 2.5 degree toe in, no spacers under the mounting blocks, arms all the way back, 1.5 - camber, 1mm up travel.


tandman, are you also running the center one-way ?
I'm thinking about getting this car but don't know if it will make a good foam/carpet car. Chassis and top plate don't look stiff enough to me and I'm not crazy about pieceing together a ball diff. Still, it looks pretty sweet.
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:40 PM   #2245
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Doe's anyboby know were I can get an A495 pulley so that I can finish my front diff
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:46 PM   #2246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no1uno
Doe's anyboby know were I can get an A495 pulley so that I can finish my front diff
tower has them instock
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go
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Old 01-04-2006, 06:51 PM   #2247
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They did I just bought the last one
thanks rc zombies
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Old 01-04-2006, 08:30 PM   #2248
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Jag, I am running the car box stock except for the springs and oil, I just did some testing tonight with an 8x2 mod and had to add the rear copper sway bar to dial in some more steering....works great! The car is very stable even while braking......it works better than I thought it would.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:00 AM   #2250
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Wow... i like the new spur gear holder and first one (don't know the name) i assume that the little carbon plate is a motormount brace the same as shooters but then in carbon and meaby a little upside down, and i don't see the point in having a aluminium middle block but anyways i like the hop-ups and i am going to buy some .

Greetz florian
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