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Old 09-22-2010, 01:38 AM   #19426
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Could somebody point me towards a how-to install a front NT1 diff in the back of my cyclone ? I'd like to know everything there is to know about that before maybe buying the parts.

I need the part #335000 , right ?

What else ? shims ? pulley ? which brand ?

Thanks a lot for your time.

anyone ?
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:21 PM   #19427
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bump !
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:35 AM   #19428
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Arrete de déconner et réinstalle un diff a billes...

Pour le proto je vais garder l'Exotek, il est moins plein de trous! Ensuite je verrai avec SwissComposites...
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:45 AM   #19429
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I am so sick and tired of cleaning/rebuilding my diff every raceday. I'm going to have less time than previous years this winter, and with offroad at the same period I will feel like I spend my time doing diffs !

So I'm sticking with balls for off road (for obvious reasons) but if I can switch to gears for TC I'll do it. A NT1 gear diff is only 55.- on TM models' website, if if fits really good and doesn't wear out CVDs it will be worth every penny IMO.

Yeah, the exotek probably flexes more symmetrically than anything HB.... good point. I have a drill press should you need it. Any news on the availability of the TCD ?
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:41 PM   #19430
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Originally Posted by heretic View Post
I am so sick and tired of cleaning/rebuilding my diff every raceday. I'm going to have less time than previous years this winter, and with offroad at the same period I will feel like I spend my time doing diffs !

So I'm sticking with balls for off road (for obvious reasons) but if I can switch to gears for TC I'll do it. A NT1 gear diff is only 55.- on TM models' website, if if fits really good and doesn't wear out CVDs it will be worth every penny IMO.

Yeah, the exotek probably flexes more symmetrically than anything HB.... good point. I have a drill press should you need it. Any news on the availability of the TCD ?
Is this with a pro-spec diff? If you have to rebuild everyday then you could be doing something wrong. Are you running mod or spec with the TC?
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:21 PM   #19431
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With the pro spec diff I rebuild every month... and I don't even need too.. but I do not run in mod.. the old diffs were bad needed to be rebuilt allot more well twice as much.. I have the 3 racing gear diff also but I have gone back to the pro spec..

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Is this with a pro-spec diff? If you have to rebuild everyday then you could be doing something wrong. Are you running mod or spec with the TC?
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:06 PM   #19432
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Default Spur Gear

Whats the smallest spur gear that will fit Hot Bodies TC?
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:14 PM   #19433
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Depends---on how big a PINION you run!! I ran a 80 tooth with a 56 pinion this past weekend. I could have gone down to a 74--it would have fit.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:44 AM   #19434
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Is this with a pro-spec diff? If you have to rebuild everyday then you could be doing something wrong. Are you running mod or spec with the TC?
I am running 10.5. I have the plastic diff- probably the best plastic diff I ever had, admittedly . I understand your comment, I 'll try to explain.

I have been surprised several times by a diff that is great when you spin it on your table, really free without slipping, etc, but is in fact a total junk when on the track. Then you spend the afternoon chasing setup, and then just to be on the safe side you rebuild your diff...et voilà! the car is great again and you can undo all the desperate setup modifications you had done. One afternoon lost ( if not one whole day) sometimes a set of tires, and a bit of frustration coming home.

So, these ( relatively rare) bad experiences have me rebuild my diff every 10 runs or so, just in case... and that is super boring. To answer your very justified doubts about how I build/clean then, I took lessons from the greatest diff specialist of all time, the legendary www.overrc.com. I use the right greases in the right places, the rings and balls are perfect, same for the thrust, etc.


Sooooooo.... how can I put this NT1 diff in my cyclone ?
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:36 PM   #19435
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Gear diff could be a good idea for maintainability... But you'll lost the "slipper" effect...

The NT1 diff is 55$, I suppose the SpecR one is more expensive...

For the TCD, I emailed RcChamp and they answered me that the steering parts are sold out... Asked them for how long... No answer... I'm really thinking of getting the kit itself... And resell parts...
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:38 PM   #19436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Depends---on how big a PINION you run!! I ran a 80 tooth with a 56 pinion this past weekend. I could have gone down to a 74--it would have fit.
FYI
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With that combination that's a FDR of 3.48. What class are you running?
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Old 09-24-2010, 03:44 PM   #19437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
I am running 10.5. I have the plastic diff- probably the best plastic diff I ever had, admittedly . I understand your comment, I 'll try to explain.

I have been surprised several times by a diff that is great when you spin it on your table, really free without slipping, etc, but is in fact a total junk when on the track. Then you spend the afternoon chasing setup, and then just to be on the safe side you rebuild your diff...et voilà! the car is great again and you can undo all the desperate setup modifications you had done. One afternoon lost ( if not one whole day) sometimes a set of tires, and a bit of frustration coming home.

So, these ( relatively rare) bad experiences have me rebuild my diff every 10 runs or so, just in case... and that is super boring. To answer your very justified doubts about how I build/clean then, I took lessons from the greatest diff specialist of all time, the legendary www.overrc.com. I use the right greases in the right places, the rings and balls are perfect, same for the thrust, etc.


Sooooooo.... how can I put this NT1 diff in my cyclone ?
I'm at a loss for words. I don't know what else to suggest. When I ran a 3.5 I got more than 10 runs out of my diff. As for the NT1 gear diff....I can't answer that as I haven't tried placing it in my car. I'd like a gear diff but no one makes one that just goes straigh in the car. Things have to be modified and switched out to fit and that's not something I care to try. I'll ask around and see if anyone out my way has run into simular issues.
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:50 PM   #19438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
I am running 10.5. I have the plastic diff- probably the best plastic diff I ever had, admittedly . I understand your comment, I 'll try to explain.

I have been surprised several times by a diff that is great when you spin it on your table, really free without slipping, etc, but is in fact a total junk when on the track. Then you spend the afternoon chasing setup, and then just to be on the safe side you rebuild your diff...et voilà! the car is great again and you can undo all the desperate setup modifications you had done. One afternoon lost ( if not one whole day) sometimes a set of tires, and a bit of frustration coming home.

So, these ( relatively rare) bad experiences have me rebuild my diff every 10 runs or so, just in case... and that is super boring. To answer your very justified doubts about how I build/clean then, I took lessons from the greatest diff specialist of all time, the legendary www.overrc.com. I use the right greases in the right places, the rings and balls are perfect, same for the thrust, etc.


Sooooooo.... how can I put this NT1 diff in my cyclone ?
This might be a silly advice, but had the same problems you describe.

After a while i have noticed the diff overheats (either because it is to loose or because the grease is gone).

It will seem Ok in the bench, but if you test it imediately after the run you notice its super tight and grety. once it cools down, it will seem ok again.

The alu outdrives seems to help the consistency of the diff also.

About the gear diff, sorry, havent tested yet :P

Good luck
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:07 AM   #19439
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Default Two type of DCJs?

I have two sets of DCJs one is from japan and second from usa and japan version have cross pins vs usa version that have parallel pin. Is there any difference in performance?

cross:

parallel:

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2010, 11:54 AM   #19440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
Whats the smallest spur gear that will fit Hot Bodies TC?
With a 74 spur, you need a minimum of a 26 Pinion just to get it to fit, without taking into consideration FDR's.

72 is 28 Pinion
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