timmig

iTrader: (25)

Depends---on how big a PINION you run!! I ran a 80 tooth with a 56 pinion this past weekend. I could have gone down to a 74--it would have fit.
FYI
Tim

heretic

I am running 10.5. I have the plastic diff- probably the best plastic diff I ever had, admittedly . I understand your comment, I 'll try to explain.

I have been surprised several times by a diff that is great when you spin it on your table, really free without slipping, etc, but is in fact a total junk when on the track. Then you spend the afternoon chasing setup, and then just to be on the safe side you rebuild your diff...et voilą! the car is great again and you can undo all the desperate setup modifications you had done. One afternoon lost ( if not one whole day) sometimes a set of tires, and a bit of frustration coming home.

So, these ( relatively rare) bad experiences have me rebuild my diff every 10 runs or so, just in case... and that is super boring. To answer your very justified doubts about how I build/clean then, I took lessons from the greatest diff specialist of all time, the legendary www.overrc.com. I use the right greases in the right places, the rings and balls are perfect, same for the thrust, etc.


Sooooooo.... how can I put this NT1 diff in my cyclone ?

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Gear diff could be a good idea for maintainability... But you'll lost the "slipper" effect...

The NT1 diff is 55$, I suppose the SpecR one is more expensive...

For the TCD, I emailed RcChamp and they answered me that the steering parts are sold out... Asked them for how long... No answer... I'm really thinking of getting the kit itself... And resell parts...

Bubblehead

With that combination that's a FDR of 3.48. What class are you running?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I'm at a loss for words. I don't know what else to suggest. When I ran a 3.5 I got more than 10 runs out of my diff. As for the NT1 gear diff....I can't answer that as I haven't tried placing it in my car. I'd like a gear diff but no one makes one that just goes straigh in the car. Things have to be modified and switched out to fit and that's not something I care to try. I'll ask around and see if anyone out my way has run into simular issues.

Itchy

iTrader: (1)

This might be a silly advice, but had the same problems you describe.

After a while i have noticed the diff overheats (either because it is to loose or because the grease is gone).

It will seem Ok in the bench, but if you test it imediately after the run you notice its super tight and grety. once it cools down, it will seem ok again.

The alu outdrives seems to help the consistency of the diff also.

About the gear diff, sorry, havent tested yet :P

Good luck

tomislav

I have two sets of DCJs one is from japan and second from usa and japan version have cross pins vs usa version that have parallel pin. Is there any difference in performance?

cross:

parallel:

Thanks

benh

With a 74 spur, you need a minimum of a 26 Pinion just to get it to fit, without taking into consideration FDR's.

72 is 28 Pinion

Bubblehead

Thanks, I'm trying to set my car for VTA 21.5 brushless seems as if the FDR will be around 3.75 - 5.1.

eceer

iTrader: (13)

Howdy,

I've recently developed a mid corner oversteer problem. Doesn't seem to matter if its a high speed or tight slow speed corners.

The track surface is painted bitumen with medium+ grip depending on weather and conditions.

I have recently changed from Sorex 32's to Muchmore 32's and was all right for a few meetings until in the last two outings welcomed me to oversteer city.

I generally run the HPI blues with AE30 weight oil with 2 hole pistons with no rebound rubbers. It was recommended by a club member to try going to Silvers which helped a little and when I tried the Pinks it was just as bad as the blues.

Any suggestions on things to try and change to eliminate the oversteer would be greatly appreciated.

95lscoupe

iTrader: (10)

Run hpi white springs in the front and you blue springs in the back middle shock tower positions.

2 deg camber all around go from there should plant the rear nicely. if to much over steer drop the rear shocks down. under steer drop the front shocks down. lower traction all around drop all the shocks down. there should be a decent split front to rear in shock springs front harder than the rear. just play around in the spring range i gave you. its rare to get a car to handle great with same springs all around.

luic

I think, Silver front, blue rear can help you, a litle more oil (35-40), is your rear diff in good conditions? , and see if the knukles move free up-down, the cvd are clean and smooth, and see if when you move up the knukles the blade does not touch with the diff force the movement.

Sorry for my english, i hope help you.

Luis C.

Jaz406

iTrader: (50)

I found on my Cyclone that the rear end was too soft and the inside tire was comming off the ground causing the rear end to snap around. I added stiffer springs and corrected the problem. I ran carpet indoors with low to medium grip. 18 or 19 lb. front springs and 45 wt oil. 14 or 15lb. springs in rear with 35-40 wt oil.

eceer

iTrader: (13)

Thanks all for the responses. There is a club meeting this weekend that I'll give the recommendations a go at. I'll let you know how I get on.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

VTA with a 21.5 novak motors is MAX FDR of 4.2 - so you'd be looking at 4.2 to 5.1 for a range

only with the 25.5 motor does the FDR limitation go away -- unless you're track doesn't follow the USVTA rules