mikel33

iTrader: (2)

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bigwavedave33

iTrader: (1212)

hehehehehe you want one bad! They will be cheap once Associated includes them in kits. I can't believe they are selling them at list price.

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

I want one, too, but I'm going to wait for the version with the onboard G sensor that triggers playback of the sound of breaking glass, crumpling sheet metal, and explosions... followed by the roar of the crowd.

Texas Postman

iTrader: (120)

Hey Folks!
I need a good VTA set-up! XRAY T4-14...new carpet...80ft straights. I posted in the XRAY thread, and noone wanted to respond. [email protected]
Thanks

.crispy

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray...etsXRayT4.html

Texas Postman

iTrader: (120)

Thanks Crispy, BUT...PetitRC only had basic/17.5...MOD setups. VTA is a different animal because of tires, weight, and speed. I'm looking for VTA set-ups.
Dave

godzukihop

iTrader: (32)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...t-2-a-532.html

Look at post #7980.

regets ama

PM sent

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I've been having pretty good luck with a fairly straight forward setup in our VTA-ish class. Granted, I'm running a 2015, but I would imagine the 2014 should take the setup well too.

Start with kit
2.5 springs all around, 35 weight oil all around
Droop at 7 on the Hudy gauge all around (so 1.5mm or so front and rear)
2.5* of toe-in in the back, 1* of toe-out in the front. You can do 3* of toe in the back if you need to lock the rear in more on fresh carpet.
3K diff in the back, you can try 5K on slippery new carpet, or 2K if you need more rotation
2.5 million diff in the front with DCJs
All screws in the top deck, including the 4 in the layshaft (though this is kit I think)
1.4mm sway front, 1.3mm sway rear
1* of camber all around, you can try 1.5* or 2* if you need more corner grip, but I find that 1* wears the tires nice and even
+0.75 hexes in the front (so that the VTA wheels don't hit the steering knuckle), +1.5 hexes in the rear for added stability
Shocks in stock position, though you can stand the rear up 1 hole (so outside most hole) if you want quicker rotation, you can also lay the front down 1 hole but made my car a bit lazy

I'm going from memory but that's basically it. The car is very easy to drive, but my feeling is that this isn't the fastest setup. For a nervous/twitchy driver like myself, though, it works well. Lots of mechanical grip and very smooth.

Texas Postman

iTrader: (120)

Thanks guys!!!!

Josh Keller

iTrader: (37)

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metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I should have mentioned that although my setup is for VTA wheels/tires, I actually run GT bodies. Hopefully that won't make too much of a difference for you in a true VTA class.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

good starting point if no VTA setup is available for almost any chassis. Find a good rubber tire setup and modify it from there.

TJ Hart

iTrader: (11)

New to VTA, well on-road completely. Looking to get a TC4 chassis because it's pre-built and cost effective. What is the difference, or benefits, of the TC5 belt drive compared to the TC4 shaft drive?

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

I'm currently using a TC4 for VTA and it is a perfectly competent chassis for the class. To be honest, there isn't much to gain from a TC5. A TC6/TC6.1/TC6.2 has some tuning advantages in terms of tuning /adjustability and has gear diffs available. That said, a well-setup TC4 has pop off the corner from the efficient shaft drive that most cars can't quite replicate.

My advice is to do what fits within your budget and current capabilities. Because of the power limits, min weight and tires, VTA is a driving and setup class with awesome competition, and the particular chassis has only small contribution. There are many, many very fast VTA racers on old (5+ years) chassis.