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Old 11-13-2012, 11:06 PM   #1006
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While building my Photon EX I tried using the optional center servo mount however I noticed that one can actually move the mount with enough force. It is not secure at all (two screws), therefore what is the trick with it or did I get a faulty part?
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:48 AM   #1007
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While building my Photon EX I tried using the optional center servo mount however I noticed that one can actually move the mount with enough force. It is not secure at all (two screws), therefore what is the trick with it or did I get a faulty part?
In the install of the optional mount there are three screws... two on the alloy part in the middle of the car and then you use one of the original plastic servo mounts on the outside... the picture below is not great but hopefully makes sense;

T.O.P. PHOTON EX-exservo.jpg
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:09 AM   #1008
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While building my Photon EX I tried using the optional center servo mount however I noticed that one can actually move the mount with enough force. It is not secure at all (two screws), therefore what is the trick with it or did I get a faulty part?
Move in what way?, don't forget the primary purpose of the new mounts (used by near every brand now), is they are a 'floating' servo mount, so in other words it's designed to allow movement and not create a tweak and uneven flex in the chassis.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:37 AM   #1009
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I also had the problem. If you push the outside of the mount you can move the mount. If you are driving and hit something the car loses the center position of the steering because the mount turns.
Now I drive with the original mount.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:32 AM   #1010
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Guys,

Purchased the Reflex Racing TC6 LCD and Hot Bodies DCJs.

Findings as follows:
- The TC6 LCD dogbone won't fit in the TOP EX spool or gear diff outdrive.
- HB DCJ dogbone won't fit EX gear diff outdrive (yet to try in the spool)

Have you modified the dogbones or outdrives to get these to fit?

Also, looked at the TC6 spool outrives online, note they have a similar square to the TOP spool outdrive (the end fitted to spool).

Has anyone tried these? Don't really like the look of these, appear to be made from composite / plastic material ... but might be worth a try.

Cheers
Thanks for reporting your findings. I'm also curious about the fitting of TC6 spool cups on the TOP spool. Anyone ?

As for the floating servo mount, I haven't tried one but I'm thinking this trend of the month is seriously overrated.
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:38 AM   #1011
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I also had the problem. If you push the outside of the mount you can move the mount. If you are driving and hit something the car loses the center position of the steering because the mount turns.
Now I drive with the original mount.
This happened me once - its really down to the big holes in the servo compared to the screw size I suppose. I have put the second original mount part on the chassis on the outside and put a screw through the bottom servo hole on the but did not tighten it up completely tight. So I have four screws through the servo but the one on the outside bottom is not tight - hope that makes sense... so the floating servo mount still works the way it's supposed to but in the event of a big crash the servo only moves a tiny bit and you can still finish the race.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:06 AM   #1012
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Originally Posted by heretic View Post
Thanks for reporting your findings. I'm also curious about the fitting of TC6 spool cups on the TOP spool. Anyone ?

.
Tc6 spool cup won't fit top spool. But why not just use the tc6 spool along with tc6 dcj or cvd? I use that combo and it's been perfect for me.

As for floating servo mount... I used the given 3 screws plus double sided tape on the bottom of the servo to help secure it. It has not move on me at all. Also want to add that I use the servo saver so if I did get into a hard hit the servo saver will move first before anything else. ( I use the tamiya aluminum high torque servo saver. It's the tall black one with 2 holes. Very high quality)
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:13 PM   #1013
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Hey Guys,

I've never been happy with my EX, and may have found an issue...

The car 'seems' tweaked. When I lift an end up, one wheel sits about 4mm higher then the other. So its the left hand rear (motor side) and opposite front that have the issue. This is with a battery in the car, strap not to tight. Also, it sits perfectly on chassis blocks... flat and nice. The chassis itself is twisting differently!

ie, on blocks, I can see the chassis 'flexing' and lifting those opposite wheels (Doing the tweak test on chassis blocks)

L/R balance is perfect

I tried loosening the servo mounts and the motor mount mount screws and the layshaft screws.

This car has always hooked turning right, and I could not figure it out. Is my chassis plate stuffed? I replaced the top deck and no difference.

As said, from new I have had trouble getting this car to turn without snapping mid corner.... particularly right.

Any help appreciated...

Phill
hi phill i had this same problem on the weekend built a new kit and it was having the same problem as you.could not figure it out untill this morning i put the original photon shocks on and bam the thing handles great now.i dont know if you have tried this but it worked for me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:22 PM   #1014
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Originally Posted by Johnny Than View Post
Tc6 spool cup won't fit top spool. But why not just use the tc6 spool along with tc6 dcj or cvd? I use that combo and it's been perfect for me.

As for floating servo mount... I used the given 3 screws plus double sided tape on the bottom of the servo to help secure it. It has not move on me at all. Also want to add that I use the servo saver so if I did get into a hard hit the servo saver will move first before anything else. ( I use the tamiya aluminum high torque servo saver. It's the tall black one with 2 holes. Very high quality)
Thanks Johnny,

For the TC 6 spool, is any modification required to fit into EX?
Also is the TC 6 spool 40 tooth?
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:57 PM   #1015
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:16 PM   #1016
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Ok Here is the setup I ran last week. Its almost exactly the same as the one I ran at the classic but the arm mounts are .5mm lower on this setup sheet.

I think the car is better this way right now.

I'm running full rebound in the shocks. NO holes in the caps. I filled up the shock and let the air bleed then just pushed the bladder on with the shaft fully extended. And put the cap on.

Battery is all the way in.
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T.O.P. PHOTON EX-fairtrace-horsham-11-17-12.jpg  
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:40 PM   #1017
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Ok Here is the setup I ran last week. Its almost exactly the same as the one I ran at the classic but the arm mounts are .5mm lower on this setup sheet.

I think the car is better this way right now.

I'm running full rebound in the shocks. NO holes in the caps. I filled up the shock and let the air bleed then just pushed the bladder on with the shaft fully extended. And put the cap on.

Battery is all the way in.
What's up with the heavy weight oil and full rebound. What do you feel this is gaining?
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:25 AM   #1018
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Anybody that has a good tip to prevent the leaking diff?
I already tried the mugen o ring, still have a leaking diff.
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:32 AM   #1019
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Anybody that has a good tip to prevent the leaking diff?
I already tried the mugen o ring, still have a leaking diff.
I soakeda new set of o-rings in wd-40 for about a day. its working great so far
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:20 AM   #1020
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I soakeda new set of o-rings in wd-40 for about a day. its working great so far
If you glue the o rings to the plastic diff halfs it wont leak anymore.

I just used a q tip and ran it around the edge of where the diff touches the oring.
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