Need Help Getting Started In 1/10th Indoor On-Road
#1
Need Help Getting Started In 1/10th Indoor On-Road
Hey All,
I used to race a Slash 4x4, back in 2010, got bored, and sold it all off...
The only thing left is my Li-Po charger, and now I'm looking at on-road stuff for the winter...
A friend suggested an X-Ray T3R, but I have no idea what kind of motor/esc to pick, servo, etc...
Are there any other kits, rolling chassis, or RTR setups out there that would be better to start off with?
I kinda have a limited budget, and I don't want to have to buy a RedCat, so, if someone can help me budget out a decent setup, that would be AWESOME!!!
Thanks!
- James
I used to race a Slash 4x4, back in 2010, got bored, and sold it all off...
The only thing left is my Li-Po charger, and now I'm looking at on-road stuff for the winter...
A friend suggested an X-Ray T3R, but I have no idea what kind of motor/esc to pick, servo, etc...
Are there any other kits, rolling chassis, or RTR setups out there that would be better to start off with?
I kinda have a limited budget, and I don't want to have to buy a RedCat, so, if someone can help me budget out a decent setup, that would be AWESOME!!!
Thanks!
- James
#2
to be honest, your best bet is to go to the local track and see what those guys are running... there are quite a few different classes to race in. Also, it helps to see what the other guys are running because if you have the same chassis, you can borrow/swap parts when stuff breaks. Our club has a mix of every car you could think of.... the most widely used at the current moment is the TOP Photon though. They are still expensive (about $360) but they are extremely competative. Most tracks i've visited run a 17.5 stock motor (I like the Team Epic Duo 3 because it's one of the best and it doesn't use a plastic end). The ESC is usually a Tekin RS (that's what most are using at my LHS) or an LRP. A 2S lipo will be what you need and your club will most likely tell you which tires you need to run to be competitive.
#3
ohh i forgot.. most of the time you can find a couple guys willing to part ways with one of their vehicles cheaper at the club/track than on this forum.
#4
Thanks for the insight!
I have a question about that 17.5, because I was aware that brushless motors are measured in kV...? Isn't "turns" a brushed motor measurement?
LOL, sorry if I sound stupid, but all the ppl I ran with off-road always talked about kV, motor size (380/540/550) and gearing...
The class is going to be a 1/10th with, "blue spec" tires??? I think... They also said something about that 17.5 thing, but, that brings us back to the previous sentence... LOL.
Is that $360 TOP Photon an RTR, or just a chassis?
THANKS!
- James
I have a question about that 17.5, because I was aware that brushless motors are measured in kV...? Isn't "turns" a brushed motor measurement?
LOL, sorry if I sound stupid, but all the ppl I ran with off-road always talked about kV, motor size (380/540/550) and gearing...
The class is going to be a 1/10th with, "blue spec" tires??? I think... They also said something about that 17.5 thing, but, that brings us back to the previous sentence... LOL.
Is that $360 TOP Photon an RTR, or just a chassis?
THANKS!
- James
#5
the motor kV and the 17.5 are two different types of brushless motors. If the description says it's a 17.5 turn motor, then that means it is a sensored motor and requires a sensored speedo (sometimes they also list the kV rating too) but, if the kV rating is the only indication of the power of the motor then it is a sensorless motor. In off-road, sensorless motors are more common.
"Blue Spec" tires.. sounds like Jaco Blue Rubbers... I'm guessing.
The Photon is a kit and is not RTR...
"Blue Spec" tires.. sounds like Jaco Blue Rubbers... I'm guessing.
The Photon is a kit and is not RTR...
#6
Whew! I am so glad someone finally explained that turns/kV thing.
Sensored motors are much more expensive, right?
So, if I have, say, a sensorless 3300kV motor, then would it be illegal to use it in a 17.5 class?
Thanks Again!!!
- James
Sensored motors are much more expensive, right?
So, if I have, say, a sensorless 3300kV motor, then would it be illegal to use it in a 17.5 class?
Thanks Again!!!
- James
#7
Sensored motors are not more expensive than sensorless... it all depends on the manufacturer too. If you are in a 17.5 class, you really can't run the 3300kV... that's closer to a 13.5. A 2300 or somewhere around there would be equivalent.. and they may be lenient and let you run it for a short time... but since they are pretty much the same price... I'd just get this https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=cs&pn=TEP1053
#8
Also, what kind of servo do I need?
A metal-gear high-speed,... I guess?
Thanks!!!
- James
A metal-gear high-speed,... I guess?
Thanks!!!
- James
#9
There are two servos that you should take into consideration
Futaba S9551 and Savox SC-1251MG
Futaba S9551 and Savox SC-1251MG
#10
[quote=ewashburnaf;9412451]to be honest, your best bet is to go to the local track and see what those guys are running... quote]
+1.
See how your local racing programme operates and what cars are used, and how friendly the club is. If you are made to feel welcome it's a good indicator of the people you will be racing with.
Watching a few races will show you what speed you can expect to race at and learn the track a little.
I have used a Futaba 9550 for at least 3 seasons now and had no issues, they appear to be a very solid, low profile servo
A 30C lipo should be good enough for 17.5, (make sure it is hard cased and 2C) find out where to get the spec tyres from, pick up a good deal on equipment and get racing
+1.
See how your local racing programme operates and what cars are used, and how friendly the club is. If you are made to feel welcome it's a good indicator of the people you will be racing with.
Watching a few races will show you what speed you can expect to race at and learn the track a little.
I have used a Futaba 9550 for at least 3 seasons now and had no issues, they appear to be a very solid, low profile servo
A 30C lipo should be good enough for 17.5, (make sure it is hard cased and 2C) find out where to get the spec tyres from, pick up a good deal on equipment and get racing