the .4 module and 64 pitch gears are the same, you can actually interchange them. right now, i use a ta-04 spur and hpi pinion on my hpi pro 2. they mesh pretty well.

as for the pinion priices, man those are stiff!!!! tamiya .4 module aluminum pinions sell here in the philippines for only 8 USD a pair!:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

as for the two motors, jcr is correct. although i personally like the type t better. acceleration is better than with the type r. they also have nearly the same top-end.

I,ve been reading some of your postings on this topic, and havent recieved my TA04-R yet. My question is I take it that it comes with a metric spur, I think someone said 120T. I do not have access to tamiya pinions or Hpi. I can get RRP, and kimbrough all day long. Can I just use 48, or 64 pitch gears instead? I'd rather use 48 pitch sinse I run on outdoor aspault thats not always the cleanest surface.
Can anyone give me a suggested 48 pitch combo to start with, using a MVP stock motor?

The TA04-R comes with 112-120- and 128 spurs, .04 and 64 pitch are totally interchangeable. as far as stock gearing I ran a P2K and ran 120-36 if that helps at all.

Thanks, that gives me an start. With a 120-36, or 3.3 inital drive, I can figure out where to start with 48 pitch gears. The mvp is geared almost the same as a P2k, give or take a tooth.

for 48 pitch, use this. 93 tooth 48 pitch rrp and 30 tooth pinion.

Type R pictures
 

http://users.pandora.be/tamiya.belgi...R_close_up.jpg


http://users.pandora.be/tamiya.belgi...ya_stock_R.jpg

The pcb looks to be removable yes...

ecrap: the prices are in Canadian dollars and Tamiya pinions comes in a pair.

as for gearing if i look back at the gearing of my Yokomo the closest ratio to it was 120 x 40 so i think 120 x 40 is good. I've seen a 120 x 40 on a MVP so it should work.

tried out the 04R for the first time yesterday and it was easy to get it going but i still need more steering for the stock setup so any help?

you could try these:
Harder springs for rear
move camber link for front to inner hole (basically make the link longer)
Haven't tried the lower hole, but I guess that will give even more turn in. Beware spin outs.

those PCB is actually SMT capactitor...
why do u want to remove them??

how much camber are you running now?

I'm using -1 in the front and 0 in the rear. but i've also found out that a tighter differ will have more steering but too much for the fast turns.

maybe if I blew 'em up? Newbie like me can do anything heh!

But seriously no idea, henry @ rc speedway I believe he mentioned they were removable, not only convenient but also in case of blown cap just replace the pcb. Would be more expensive huh?

for my 04, i run -1 all around. I don't really play with camber much yet.

Diff tightness was recommended to me - just tight enough that it does not slip. And then loosen the rear slightly. I dunno, but after I was told to do this adjustment my car can grip the road after a high-speed hairpin, previously it's a spinout or drift towards the wall.

hths. My 04 is still full time 4wd, can't find any one-ways.

i dont know if u can actually remove the pc board, guess you could pry them or something...

ya i had the same problem with the diff. a tight diff can't go through any fast turns without spinning.

well more steering i might try more camber or less toe.

Greetings!, I just recieved my TA04-R Altezza today in the mail, and holy WOW does that body look awesome! I have one quick question, I've started putting the assembled front and rear transmissions on to the tub chassis, and noticed the front belt is pretty tight, is this normal? Do you think it will lossen up? Its not like it wont rotate, but its just tighter than any previous T/C I have owned (Pro2, MR4-SP).