26Likes3 racing new F1
06-15-2012, 06:35 PM
#2941
06-15-2012, 06:37 PM
#2942
I see why HPI soft front and medium rears seem to be a good combination...the soft front and medium rear feel like nearly the same compound. The medium fronts are rocks! I really wish companies would not list the front and rear as the same compound when they really are not...
06-15-2012, 06:45 PM
#2943
just run it stock. things will break then just update them as you go. I started out box stock last week. just got a hard hit on the right side. SMH!
06-15-2012, 06:49 PM
#2944
exactly, a complete Exotek conversion will be the next step. coming probably sooner that I want.
Looks like I'll be testing at the Tamiya Track in Aliso Viejo tomorrow for the Speedtechrc race next week ; )
Looks like I'll be testing at the Tamiya Track in Aliso Viejo tomorrow for the Speedtechrc race next week ; )
Last edited by FNG RIDER; 06-15-2012 at 07:02 PM.
06-15-2012, 11:24 PM
#2947
@liljohn--that's a very helpful list that people running the FGX will find quite useful.
I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:
-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers
I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
I have been researching what I would need to run an FGX reliably--aside from not crashing--I have independently come to more or less the same conclusion that unless you want to build this thing two or three times over, you will MINIMALLY want the following:
-Chassis conversion (Exotek addresses the issue of breaking off the front nose as well since the carbon upper/addition runs all the way to the tip, and also addresses servo clearance issues)
-Exotek Upper Adjustable Arms (keep stock parts as spares)
-Exotek Lower Reinforcements (if you break the lowers with this, you probably have more damage anyway)
-3 Racing Rear Bulkhead (stock motor mount with Exotek chassis--already gives you more clearance)
-3 Racing Diff Bearing Carriers
I left out all the tuning bits (springs, camber plates) just to get an idea of pricing for people that would be cross-shopping these with other kits with conversions.
06-15-2012, 11:32 PM
#2948
I'm a big fan of Troy's work. The Exotec is not a slouch either and a lot of development went into it. As I stated in the list, the McKune upper deck set can go right on a stock lower deck and is a quick fix.
06-16-2012, 06:15 PM
#2949
Just got back from Tamiya, broke a top plate! car was handling good after C lightfoot set my rear suspension. on second session, I slid out on the sweeper on cold tires. clipped the boards. and broke at the infamouse section behind the arms. SMH. contemplating going with complete carbon exotech conversion. or another top plate 
06-16-2012, 07:37 PM
#2950
yeah mate
I see why HPI soft front and medium rears seem to be a good combination...the soft front and medium rear feel like nearly the same compound. The medium fronts are rocks! I really wish companies would not list the front and rear as the same compound when they really are not...
hth regards Mark Miller
btw Shano and myself hold the TQ times at our track on asphalt
06-16-2012, 09:35 PM
#2951
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Yes indeed , myself and Shano have tested all the combo's in the heat and cold ......if u need a bit more entry steering than the HPI softs give u try pits grooved mediums with the gold (hard) front springs and HPI med or sort rears .......but if u do that put 2mm of wheel spacers in the front ....dialed
hth regards Mark Miller
btw Shano and myself hold the TQ times at our track on asphalt
hth regards Mark Miller
btw Shano and myself hold the TQ times at our track on asphalt
Also try raising your rear ride height I'm running 9mm rear and aprox 5mm front.
I call it the door wedge
06-17-2012, 02:37 AM
#2952
Well my current theory is a lot of the push in this car comes from the really stiff gear diff. I noticed the o-rings inside the diff have a crap load of drag on them so today I took out my gear diff and did a bunch of work on it. First off I used 1500 grit sand paper and sanded the out drive shafts smooth then polished them with Mothers. This seems to have cut the drag on the o-ring by at least 1/3 and maybe as much as 1/2. Then I also took out 1 spacer on the big bevel gears because they were way too tight. They feel like they will not slip which is a big concern and the diff is twice as smooth now as it had been. I'm planning on testing the changes tomorrow so long as work doesn't interferer.
06-17-2012, 08:26 AM
#2954
Well my current theory is a lot of the push in this car comes from the really stiff gear diff. I noticed the o-rings inside the diff have a crap load of drag on them so today I took out my gear diff and did a bunch of work on it. First off I used 1500 grit sand paper and sanded the out drive shafts smooth then polished them with Mothers. This seems to have cut the drag on the o-ring by at least 1/3 and maybe as much as 1/2. Then I also took out 1 spacer on the big bevel gears because they were way too tight. They feel like they will not slip which is a big concern and the diff is twice as smooth now as it had been. I'm planning on testing the changes tomorrow so long as work doesn't interferer.
Have you tried a ball diff? I installed the ball diff with ceramic bearings. I immediately felt a difference. no more diffing out and appears to have more forward bite. The ball diff is has less friction overall and gearbox spins very freely. you also loose some weight too
06-17-2012, 10:17 AM
#2955
Tech Master
The rabbit has been great to me.Very durable and pretty easy to tune. It is just as fast as all of the other cars at our track. I run really close to a very fast f104 and usually we finish on the same lap.