300LikesTeam Associated TC4
10-13-2005, 09:25 PM
#6721
FT-TC4 is better.
10-13-2005, 09:45 PM
#6722
howard......stop messing around and get a TC...3! LOL
There are a couple people running the 4 so you will have setup tips from them....Timmy H, Ken Pepe, Scott Cramer, and Matt D. to name a few.
Plus you can drop the Hara club and sign up for the Timmy Heiser fan club...3 members and counting.
There are a couple people running the 4 so you will have setup tips from them....Timmy H, Ken Pepe, Scott Cramer, and Matt D. to name a few.
Plus you can drop the Hara club and sign up for the Timmy Heiser fan club...3 members and counting.
10-13-2005, 10:04 PM
#6723
LOOKING FOR INFO ON SPUR AND PINION GEARS HOW TO MATCH THE AND RULE TO GET MORE SPEED.
NEWERA152 OH! I HAVE A TC3
NEWERA152 OH! I HAVE A TC3
10-14-2005, 04:20 AM
#6724
Tech Initiate
TC4 FT OR 3 RACING CONVERSION ON A TC4
which is better? anyone tried them back to back?
which is better? anyone tried them back to back?
10-14-2005, 04:37 AM
#6725
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by mark240973
TC4 FT OR 3 RACING CONVERSION ON A TC4
which is better? anyone tried them back to back?
which is better? anyone tried them back to back?
10-14-2005, 08:57 AM
#6727
Guys.......thank you all for the helpfull information, it is very clear that FT is the way to go, it made it very easy for me to choose...........
Now...who want to part out a 99% new FT TC4 for $100...? (just kidding...)
Robk: I am going to License the "Bounchbob the square pants" now...
Nexus: Please sign me up for the Timmy Fan club member #4......and when can I get a T-shirt with his face on it...?
Now...who want to part out a 99% new FT TC4 for $100...? (just kidding...)
Robk: I am going to License the "Bounchbob the square pants" now...
Nexus: Please sign me up for the Timmy Fan club member #4......and when can I get a T-shirt with his face on it...?
10-14-2005, 09:10 AM
#6728
If you can find a used tub car cheap you can consider the BMI as well, it just doesnt come with all the aluminum that the FT does. I got a sweet deal on my tub car and it already came with all the aluminum so thats why I went BMI. before ya ask the BMI is very similar to the FT, it just moves the batteries and electronics around a bit to give the car a different balance.
10-14-2005, 10:41 AM
#6729
JSAVES: Ok... i changed back to my original name and now i cant get to my DeeDubYa name... can you resend that last PM so i can have your setup info again? Thanks for your patience.
BOBBARRY: In the past two weeks i have done alot of thinking about the car. Im thinking the chassis needs to be lengthened, just under .090. (Kinda the reason i asked about the changes to the BMI TC4 chassis for comparison...) There is enough room in the cups of the main driveshaft to allow for the rear gearcase/motor mount/armblocks to be moved back, w/o necessitating a new mainshaft. Of course, the top plate would have to be changed as well. I think it would also be beneficial to move the entire steering assembly back .060 (geometry), but that would require the servo to be moved back, which isnt needed. I guess modifying the current "rack" is the option, or going back to the TC3 rack. Doesnt Jason drill the holes on the BMITC4 chassis for the TC3 steering rack? (??) The FT motor mount, at least the one that came in my kit, needs to be milled .020 on the bottom (and then shimmed on the top) to allow the layshaft coming out of the rear gearcase a 90 degree exit (or...parallel to the chassis). With everything bolted in place, it angles up, and if i relieve the tension on the front two rear lower gearcase/chassis mounting screws, the layshaft spins ALOT better, with noticeably less gear noise, and the angle is reduced. I even used calipers to measure different, new gearboxes to be sure there were no changes in the length of the mounting points. Everything else lines up perfectly. The issue is with the motor mount. It forces the support bearing in front of the spur too high. (Curiosity...has anyone else noticed this?) I also cut my center spine into two separate pieces... for one or two smaller mounted pieces to be moved forward and back with more adjustment than just adding/removing screws on a single larger piece. Moving one piece forward would add more rear flex, and vice versa for moving it to the rear. Both pieces would be similar to a full spine... ETC. The FT seemed really responsive to these adjustments. Im still a little "lost" in all the new possibilities the car offers. Its easy to dial yourself out by trying new stuff. Have you signed up for the Express race in NC yet?
- DaveW
P.S. Does anyone know of a company that makes 3 degree caster blocks for the TC3/4... or the XXX-S? I want 3 degrees w/o adding any angle to the front hingepins. 2 degrees pushes too much coming into the corner, and 4 degrees is just too damn agressive coming into the corner... for my tastes anyways.
BOBBARRY: In the past two weeks i have done alot of thinking about the car. Im thinking the chassis needs to be lengthened, just under .090. (Kinda the reason i asked about the changes to the BMI TC4 chassis for comparison...) There is enough room in the cups of the main driveshaft to allow for the rear gearcase/motor mount/armblocks to be moved back, w/o necessitating a new mainshaft. Of course, the top plate would have to be changed as well. I think it would also be beneficial to move the entire steering assembly back .060 (geometry), but that would require the servo to be moved back, which isnt needed. I guess modifying the current "rack" is the option, or going back to the TC3 rack. Doesnt Jason drill the holes on the BMITC4 chassis for the TC3 steering rack? (??) The FT motor mount, at least the one that came in my kit, needs to be milled .020 on the bottom (and then shimmed on the top) to allow the layshaft coming out of the rear gearcase a 90 degree exit (or...parallel to the chassis). With everything bolted in place, it angles up, and if i relieve the tension on the front two rear lower gearcase/chassis mounting screws, the layshaft spins ALOT better, with noticeably less gear noise, and the angle is reduced. I even used calipers to measure different, new gearboxes to be sure there were no changes in the length of the mounting points. Everything else lines up perfectly. The issue is with the motor mount. It forces the support bearing in front of the spur too high. (Curiosity...has anyone else noticed this?) I also cut my center spine into two separate pieces... for one or two smaller mounted pieces to be moved forward and back with more adjustment than just adding/removing screws on a single larger piece. Moving one piece forward would add more rear flex, and vice versa for moving it to the rear. Both pieces would be similar to a full spine... ETC. The FT seemed really responsive to these adjustments. Im still a little "lost" in all the new possibilities the car offers. Its easy to dial yourself out by trying new stuff. Have you signed up for the Express race in NC yet?
- DaveW
P.S. Does anyone know of a company that makes 3 degree caster blocks for the TC3/4... or the XXX-S? I want 3 degrees w/o adding any angle to the front hingepins. 2 degrees pushes too much coming into the corner, and 4 degrees is just too damn agressive coming into the corner... for my tastes anyways.
10-14-2005, 10:55 AM
#6730
Hey Dave, didn't sign up yet. I have to make sure everything is good with home and work before committing. Looks good so far though.
Yes you can use the TC4, TC3 or NTC3 steering racks with the BMI car. I like your Idea about the Spline. That would allow more adjustments. I switched to the Losi rear hubs and noticed that the turnbuckles are now seriously swept back. Not sure if this would affect handling though. I do like the idea of 3 deg blocks too. Let me know if you find something for that. I have yet to get my motor mount from Jason because I am waiting to order the mount and the center support and the 1/12th scale car all at once. Hopefully I can get them the beginning of next month. From what I have read and seen the motor mount is dead on and helps a lot with gear stripping problems. I think that my next concern (after getting my motor mount and center brace) will be to address the shock towers. I do not like the old tub towers. I think they need to be lower and stiffer. Stiffer for the obvious reasons and lower just to lower the CG. I think that is one place that could use some attention.
Are you still running the front arms in the rear? Hows that working out?
Yes you can use the TC4, TC3 or NTC3 steering racks with the BMI car. I like your Idea about the Spline. That would allow more adjustments. I switched to the Losi rear hubs and noticed that the turnbuckles are now seriously swept back. Not sure if this would affect handling though. I do like the idea of 3 deg blocks too. Let me know if you find something for that. I have yet to get my motor mount from Jason because I am waiting to order the mount and the center support and the 1/12th scale car all at once. Hopefully I can get them the beginning of next month. From what I have read and seen the motor mount is dead on and helps a lot with gear stripping problems. I think that my next concern (after getting my motor mount and center brace) will be to address the shock towers. I do not like the old tub towers. I think they need to be lower and stiffer. Stiffer for the obvious reasons and lower just to lower the CG. I think that is one place that could use some attention.
Are you still running the front arms in the rear? Hows that working out?
10-14-2005, 11:37 AM
#6731
BOB: Yeah, i still have the front arms on the rear of the car, the angled turnbuckles (due to the Losi hubs) is one of the reasons (although a lesser reason) i went to them. They seem to let the car transition (weight transfer F/R) on and off power consistent/smooth. One could say in theory that the angle of the turnbuckle could have an affect through the range of motion. Kinda like the difference between static and active caster in the front of the car. Any angle added to the turnbuckle "could" affect how chassis roll is transferred to the tires. If a difference as little as .015 is felt moving the turnbuckle up and down either inside or outside, then i feel it is possible to feel a change angling the turnbuckle F/R (when looking at the turnbuckle from the top) when the adjustment is MORE than .015. I have however been told in the past, this was wrong. Have i swapped from one set of hubs and back again to see? No. I added the Losi hubs way back in the TC3 days, and havent looked back. IMO the adjustment possibilities outweighed the aesthetics. Incidentally, if you run 2 degrees, or 0 degrees of caster in the front (depending on F/R arm shims, but assuming the front arm is mounted with all 3 shims in front of the arm), the front camber turnbuckle is angled too... just pointing in the opposite direction of the "Losified" rear turnbuckle. I agree on the tub towers, they do have alot of flex. The FT towers are nice, plenty stiff, but the mounts look like a modified NTC3 shock tower... not the sexiest in the world. My FT rear tower was 2.5mm, and the front was 2mm in thickness... i dont know about everyone elses... or if there even were any variations... but they definitely do NOT flex like the tub goods. Im in a similar place with the Express race... but from a work standpoint. Work ruined my trip to Maryland this weekend for Mimi's season opener... and the time off was even approved ahead of time... $%#@#s.
Anyways, hope to see ya there...
- DaveW
Anyways, hope to see ya there...
- DaveW
10-14-2005, 11:57 AM
#6732
I hear ya with work. Mine is more of a "have to have all the Xmas shopping done" crisis.
Dave I don't know when but Jason is supposed to be making new shock towers and mounts for the car. Hopefully its soon LOL. I hope to see ya in NC, Then you look at my car and see how sweet it is and how much of a shame it is that I cant drive it.
Dave I don't know when but Jason is supposed to be making new shock towers and mounts for the car. Hopefully its soon LOL. I hope to see ya in NC, Then you look at my car and see how sweet it is and how much of a shame it is that I cant drive it.
10-14-2005, 01:37 PM
#6733
can someone please post the foam setup that comes with the kit, mine is MIA
10-14-2005, 01:38 PM
#6734
i ask because it's not on associated site
10-14-2005, 07:04 PM
#6735
.
BOBBARRY: The issue is with the motor mount. It forces the support bearing in front of the spur too high. (Curiosity...has anyone else noticed this?)
- DaveW
I put my motor mount from BMI in my BMI chassis too and found it to be just alittle too high for the spur, causing a small amount of bindage. What did you do to releave that. I was thinking of milling a small amount off.
BOBBARRY: The issue is with the motor mount. It forces the support bearing in front of the spur too high. (Curiosity...has anyone else noticed this?)
- DaveW
I put my motor mount from BMI in my BMI chassis too and found it to be just alittle too high for the spur, causing a small amount of bindage. What did you do to releave that. I was thinking of milling a small amount off.