RCknight

iTrader: (5)

any trick fixes you can give us that you have learned?

I'm going to try to put a ball/swivel instead of the stock ball cups on the servo ti rod link. I'll try to replace one end on the center part of the steering rack. I saw one used on the Pro 4. It seem some play comes from the servo ti-rod link. I swapped the plastic one out for the Ti ti-rod and it helped some. I'll let you know how this works.

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

premature wheel bearing failure?

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone had the servo-saver screw back-out? I was in the main on saturday in second place when the car wouldnt steer that well then not steer at all..I just found it odd. Car was faster than ever though, so I was happy.

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

Not yet, I amwaiting to get the rest of the aluminum suspension mounts and then we will all be taking a trip to the machine shop=)
I did but luckily I caught it before it got too bad, gonna keep that screa a little tighter now.

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

Since there's still some talk about slop issues with the car(mostly the first kits).......I figured Id post for those that diddn't know that associated should (they did on "all" of mine anyway) make good on any of the parts contributing to this........I had one of the very first kits that had numerous issues "some of which" gave it slop........holes in the hingepin blocks sized too big, too thick diff gears, and weak suspension arms around the shock mounting locations that have now been beefed up, as well as having tighter arm hinge pin hole tollerances(this was the biggest reduction in slop on mine)..........with these changes Iv'e been able to get rid of the various teflon shims, and (As Baker mentioned a while back)assiciated parts plastic bag material that I had streched around the plastic pillow balls and pushed into the suspension blocks.....after making these changes I have considerably "less" slop than any of my previous tc-3's.....also,nothing has changed with many modified race days concerning slop..........I spoke with Don at associated (714) 850-9342 extention124 and everything was sent right out........ ..........Joe

thomasf

iTrader: (8)

That has happened to me with my ntc3 put some threadlock on the nylok nut and check it before your heats

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I am sorry if I sound like an @ss when I say this-but the best way to tune the TC4 for guys who raced the TC3 for years is to think outside the box. I get accused in a fun way-but still accused of switching cars before I can break them , but the best thing testing al these different cars gives you different ways to tune the cars. All the brands do some thngs well and not tohers and when you experience enough different cars-it gives you a higher bench mark to achieve cause you know your Xray did this well, Your TC# did this well and your Losi did this well. Now to get one car to do them all is they key to a killer set-up.

I remember my first laps with the TC4 were crazy-I have never experienced any handling like it (Massive high speed steering, but very lazy in slow 180's and not a lot of turn in). I remember trying to think-what would I do if my old TC3 did that and I coldnt think of it because I never had a TC3 handle like that!!! So-sort of grasping at straws at first i started to make chnages in ackermann, bump steer, caster and as every chnage revealed something or worked or didnt work-the puzzle has sort of started to reveal itslf as it were. Its NOT that deep-but thats what it feels like.

SOOOOooooo-to make a long story short-break out the wrenches, shims, caster blocks and start changing stuff. Dont waste a whole pack on a crappy change-if yu chnaged something and it sucked-get off the track-change it back and try something else!!

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

Exactly Ray.........so many people have tried their favorite tried and true tc-3 set-up on their tc-4, and quickly got rid of it.........Mine required something totally different, even with all other things being equal.......

RCMits

iTrader: (30)

ray.. completely agree with you. whtas funny is.. i put down the tc3 for so long.. that i almost forgot how to tune it to the track, so when i got the tc4, i had no problems.

tooo many people seem to be comparing this tc4 with the tc3, sure it looks very similar, but it is a whole *new* (kinda) car, and we should think differently.

i used to run a Roadrunner Xpress, and I must say handled way differnt from HPI Pro, to the Tc3, to now the Tc4.

i wont knock that perhaps the first run kits were not 100% perfect.. but i seem to remember every 1st gen kit as being not perfect. always needed a lil tweaking here and there, but i lived with it.

so in conclusion.. my tc4 is working pretty darn good. just gotta give it a couple more tweaks at the track.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Ray, I agree totally. The people who have been bitching the loudest have been those who have simply put their TC3 setups on their TC4, doesn't work, so the car has to suck, right? No, it's the setup that sucks on that particular car. I think those who switch to the TC4 from say a Baracuda, Pro 4, Tamiya Evo 3, etc, have done better with the TC4 than others. Because it has the same types of adjustments, I have found that I can reach back to experience with my Surikarn and my Pro 4 to tune in the TC4 and it works many times. Are there flex and slop issues? Yeah, but it's being fixed. When I installed the graphite parts almost all the slop was removed along with 99% of the flexing.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

My problem is I get in a groove sometimes changing stuff and sometimes I sit steering at the car on the bench like a deer in headlights-duhhhh!!! Sometimes its best t go on a hunch-get out on thtrack and chnage stuff.

And i am no set-up guru-ask me now what raising the rear blocks will do on the TC4 and I'l choke on my thoughts. But-on thetrack-sometimes you remember something or it feels exactly like what your 'Old" car felt like and you remember what you changed to fix it. This is made doubly worse by knowing just enough textbook to really screw me up. If you read the Losi XXXS manual and then the Associted TC3 manuals-they explain the exact same chnage (caster) in opposite ways!! So whos right-Gil or Cliff??? Or are they both right-but in the need to talk in laymans terms-they have not explained themselves specifically enough?

I think the TC3 are better than the TC4's right now-but if I took a bone stock TC3 and didnt make a single change to it (ackermann, bump steer, , Losi rear hubs, roll centers, changing inner arm sweep, caster blocks)-I am sure I wouldnt be that impressed with one either!! But-as soon as an expereinced racer buys a brand new TC3 kit-hes got it massively chnaged while building it-its a no brainer!!

seamus0g

And for those out there that run on a very high traction carpet track, check out Baker’s Cleveland setup on the ae site. Works great.

Only notes:
- Turned the dual rate on my M8 down to about 80%
- Completely CA the front foam sidewalls, rears a bit as well.

Ran it last weekend and the car was perfect. Now if I could only learn to drive…

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I said a lot of this too as a self directed kick in the butt!!! I TOTALLY make chnages based on what I read or hear at times!!! And I dont make chnages because they dont make sense to me or they dont fit in comfort zone!! Just to find out later the chnage was right!!

Again-guys think outside the box!!! The TC4 responds really well to chnages. At least the BMI TC4 I am testing does. You feel every change.

I am spoiled now though-I race a Xray and it almost never ever breaks or gets sloppy, and it feels the same everyt time out. Its a challenge to keep the TC3 and TC4 that conisistent. But right now-you can make more chnages in finer steps than the Xray!! And the Xray used to scare peoplle away because it had too many tuning possibilities and the TC3 appealed to people because it had so llittle to chnage!! Funny how times change!!

Ray

FroBoy

iTrader: (7)

I finally got my tc4 going and am very impressed. I put on the graphite kit and tweaked the Baker setup that is on the associated site.

I dropped the oil weight from 70/60 to 60/50, put the single tab shims up front with no kickup and ran 4 degree caster blocks. Shock position 3 out on the tower and out on the arm. 1 degree of pro-squat in the rear, shock position out on the tower and the arm. Camber link positions are the same as the Baker setup.

Geared 38/102 with a reedy spec 19 (silver can)
Front tires are parma plaid, rears are parma purple.

The graphite kit really made a big difference

Alex Sturgeon
AE/Reedy

www.hthpr.com

ghoppa

iTrader: (63)

my new skin....

a "Frank" inspired scheme....

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=46891