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Old 12-25-2004, 05:38 AM   #2206
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Default Re: Anyone use....

Quote:
Originally posted by RCknight
Acer Teflasonic Dual PTFE bearings? If so, what did you think of them? Also what does PTFE stand for? Any other brands of this bearing type that are better? I don't want to spend more that $60.00. I have always liked the AE team teflon ones, but they want a fortune for them.
polytetrafluoroethylene shortened to teflon.
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Old 12-25-2004, 10:59 PM   #2207
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Originally posted by Joe B
ghoppa...First.........For the IRS lite outdrives to function "properly" you have to use the NITRO TC-3 assembly instructions, not the electric TC-3 assembly......First you need the nitro PN#6575 nylon T-nut and the standard PN#6582 (electric or nitro) diff spring that you already have, these both go into the "long" diff half (the spring first, then the T-nut)........then, the thrust bearing assembly & diff bolt gets installed thru the short diff half (instead of the long one)........this is because the IRS lite drives have no recess for the small diff nut (thats no longer needed) to properly center the thrust bearing and diff bolt..........I haven't used the associated lightened steel units as of yet, but if they ALSO have no recess for the little diff nut, then you should be able to use the 6575 nylon T-nut.........Joe
JoeB,

thanks for the info, but what is the part # for the "d-style" diff rings (or do you prefer the IRS ones?)

can you help me on this one????

later
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Old 12-25-2004, 11:02 PM   #2208
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Originally posted by ghoppa
JoeB,

thanks for the info, but what is the part # for the "d-style" diff rings (or do you prefer the IRS ones?)

can you help me on this one????

later
I mean the "non-d" style diff rings.....

later,
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Old 12-26-2004, 08:55 AM   #2209
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Ghoppa......I run the IRS lite drives that use the regular electric TC-3 D- rings..........IMO,Your best bet would be to go back to the IRS aluminum ones..(assembled correctly)..unless your strictly running mod, where the extra weight of the lightened steel one's dosn't really matter that much.......associated part# 2331 is the plain round diff ring....hope this helps
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Old 12-26-2004, 10:37 AM   #2210
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5 minute's work with a dremel tool and you can use D rings on the steel outdrives. Just use a D ring as a template to mark how much of a flat spot to cut away on the diff hub.
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Old 12-26-2004, 04:13 PM   #2211
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First TC, parts to go with the kit?

Heyas,

I've read through the majority of posts in this thread and would like to ask a favour...

Could someone summarize the 'must have' hop-ups and parts I should also purchase prior to building this car?

I will be running it with a 19T on brand new carpet with rubber tires, ermm and a track that is pretty nasty when it comes to breakage.

I am thinking I should look at something other than the stock outdrives and definitely be picking up spare front arms and a different front bumper. Oh and a sway bar kit.

Anything you guys can recommend for a first time TC buyer would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 12-26-2004, 04:58 PM   #2212
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Default TC4

I just put my Prototype BMI TC4 on the set-up board and with shock collars even all aroud and ride height even all around-car tweaked out on the dime. So far so good. I have been keeping Jason uprised of all findings so far so he can keep refining the car.

Ray
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Old 12-26-2004, 05:59 PM   #2213
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got my TC4 built up today, unfortunatley i got a dodgey hinge pin (a long hub carrier one, at the rear)...gonna speak to the lhs on tuesday...anyhow, apart from that it seems alright, fair amount of slop in the steering but ill pick up some small shims to sort that out.

one thing that annoyed me was the shocks, i can get the rebound the same on all 4 but just hard to keep the oil in the cap and in the shock body at the same time, managed it on 1, that shocks is perfect..other 3 are a bit bab, need rebuilding but im gonna get some bladders first (any recomendations?)

and for some strange reason the chubs, steering blocks and rear hub carriers are all definatley graphite, the shock towers and chassis might be (they look a mixture of both )

a couple of the bags look like they've been restapled, but the seal wasn't broken and it didn't look like it had been peeledoff and then back on (or a new one put back on)...really weird, i aint complaining obviously but its strange
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Old 12-26-2004, 07:29 PM   #2214
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anyone wanna buy a loaded TC4?
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Old 12-26-2004, 08:21 PM   #2215
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Another update on the BMI build. Set the circles with the EPA and first time ever on a TC#-I got dead even circles at 87% and 86% Left and right EPA's. Associated got something figured out with the steerng rack and the angles tierod from rack to servo. The settings that were on the radio from my last TC3 were 93% and 87%. Cool Associated!!
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Old 12-26-2004, 09:04 PM   #2216
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Heres some pics-Jason said let people see it!!

I couldnt route the 12g red wire under the top deck-but I cuold the neg wire??? Kept bending down and hitting the driveshaft-bu t I'll figure it out. I also usually mount the schottky under the driveshaft-but did the quickie install instead. The holes I used are for the soon to be done center brace. Right now-cars SO stiff. Stiffer than the Graphite tub and stiffer than the BMI eTC3!!
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Old 12-26-2004, 09:07 PM   #2217
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Low top deck.

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Old 12-26-2004, 09:12 PM   #2218
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Default bottom pic

Check out how the cars even left to right and narrow as can be. Shape should reduce chassis rubbing.

I hope run it no later than this Thursday. Its ready to rock!!
And yes-you can pull the motor out with the top deck on and it uses the stock TC4 motor mount and cam!!

Ray

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Old 12-26-2004, 09:14 PM   #2219
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Quote:
Originally posted by PIIHB!
anyone wanna buy a loaded TC4?
Wait and put this chassis on it!! see pics above!!
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Old 12-26-2004, 09:15 PM   #2220
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Default Rayhaung...

could you post some up close pics from a top view?
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